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Stylistic changes to the menu at Leroy’s Kitchen (1015 Orange Avenue, Coronado, 619-437-6087) reflect the addition of a new chef in the kitchen. JC Colon, formerly of the Kensington Grill, joined Leroy’s earlier this year. Before, the kitchen was hung up over getting the most mileage out of a vague sense of Southern hospitality. It never worked like they wanted, especially not in downtown Coronado, and the restaurant suffered a culinary identity crisis. Colon’s new menu, while much more pedestrian in intent, is actually a stronger overall presentation of the kitchen’s capabilities.
The Bavarian pretzel ($6 from the San Diego Pretzel Company) fortunately remains on the menu. They are, seriously, so good. A chilled corn soup ($8), dressed with chili oil and corn shoots, was nothing this town hasn’t seen before, but made for a much needed lightness on the formerly heavy, salty menu.
http://www.sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2013/aug/22/51800/
“Chinese chicken lollipops” ($11) is a cutesy way to describe chicken legs glazed in a superbly umami barbecue sauce. Three, diminutive lollipops for $11 was a bit of a stretch, but Leroy’s has grown into post-recession confidence and the prices have crept upwards since the restaurant’s debut. As of now, Leroy’s feels expensive.
A $25 pork chop, wrapped in prosciutto and crispy from the effects of a hot sauté pan, looked amazing. The huge chop lay atop a pile of “magenta” potato salad, which proved bland, and a few pieces of buttered corn. Peach gastrique is a smart sauce for pork, so there were no complaints there.
The rest of the menu included a lamb ragu with fettuccine ($20), roast chicken ($19), steak frites ($26), and scallops with a pea puree ($28). That list lacks a sense of adventure, no doubt. At the same time, better execution of more restrained cooking makes the new menu superior to the old. It’s hard to declare Leroy’s worth a special trip across the bridge, but the restaurant could be dinner plans for anybody who already has a reason to be in Coronado for the evening. It’s much less likely to leave diners confused and dissatisfied, but also unlikely to blow anyone’s mind.
Stylistic changes to the menu at Leroy’s Kitchen (1015 Orange Avenue, Coronado, 619-437-6087) reflect the addition of a new chef in the kitchen. JC Colon, formerly of the Kensington Grill, joined Leroy’s earlier this year. Before, the kitchen was hung up over getting the most mileage out of a vague sense of Southern hospitality. It never worked like they wanted, especially not in downtown Coronado, and the restaurant suffered a culinary identity crisis. Colon’s new menu, while much more pedestrian in intent, is actually a stronger overall presentation of the kitchen’s capabilities.
The Bavarian pretzel ($6 from the San Diego Pretzel Company) fortunately remains on the menu. They are, seriously, so good. A chilled corn soup ($8), dressed with chili oil and corn shoots, was nothing this town hasn’t seen before, but made for a much needed lightness on the formerly heavy, salty menu.
http://www.sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2013/aug/22/51800/
“Chinese chicken lollipops” ($11) is a cutesy way to describe chicken legs glazed in a superbly umami barbecue sauce. Three, diminutive lollipops for $11 was a bit of a stretch, but Leroy’s has grown into post-recession confidence and the prices have crept upwards since the restaurant’s debut. As of now, Leroy’s feels expensive.
A $25 pork chop, wrapped in prosciutto and crispy from the effects of a hot sauté pan, looked amazing. The huge chop lay atop a pile of “magenta” potato salad, which proved bland, and a few pieces of buttered corn. Peach gastrique is a smart sauce for pork, so there were no complaints there.
The rest of the menu included a lamb ragu with fettuccine ($20), roast chicken ($19), steak frites ($26), and scallops with a pea puree ($28). That list lacks a sense of adventure, no doubt. At the same time, better execution of more restrained cooking makes the new menu superior to the old. It’s hard to declare Leroy’s worth a special trip across the bridge, but the restaurant could be dinner plans for anybody who already has a reason to be in Coronado for the evening. It’s much less likely to leave diners confused and dissatisfied, but also unlikely to blow anyone’s mind.