Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Wingstop open in University Heights

A quick lesson in eating hot wings based on a too-expensive--but otherwise good--multi-state chain's spicy chicken bites.

So, a Wingstop recently opened in University Heights, right next to the Lovin’ Hut. 1901 El Cajon Boulevard, 619-297-9464. Maybe the owners have a sense of irony, sticking a chicken wing shop in next to the all-vegan noodle hut. Maybe the price was just right. Either way, the place was under construction for an eternity before the Wingstop’s doors opened.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2013/aug/09/50985/

People will go nuts over wings. Mostly, they’ll bicker and argue over the appropriate sauce, its level of spiciness and buttery-ness being in or out of contrast; or whether to dip in ranch or blue cheese; or whether drumettes or wingettes are the superior piece. It can go on and on, but there’s really only one, sole criterion that decides whether a wing is right or wrong. The only question to ask is, “Is it cooked right?”

That’s right, just like anything else, wings come down to cooking. Sauces are details, and the tastiest sauce in the world won’t obscure poor cooking.

The thing that matters with wings is whether or not they’re cooked hard enough. It takes a bold hand on the fryer to push the limits on overcooking the bony little chicken bits, but it’s necessary. Wings, being mostly joints, are filled with connective tissue and cartilage. Without sufficient cooking, the meat clings to rubbery, inedible sinews, and that’s just plain wrong. Cooking them hard, almost to the point of overdoing it, turns that cartilage into delicious, crispy goodness.

Yeah, maybe it sounds gross to think about it that way, but there’s no denying that gnawing a wing down until naught but polished bone remains is the ultimate expression of hot wings gastronomy. In that respect, Wingstop nailed it. “It’ll take a while to cook the wings,” they said. “We do them fresh.”

Great. Fry ‘em hard! Each wing relented to persistent chewing, giving up all sorts of chewy, crispy, morsels. ‘Nuff said.

The price of entry, on the other hand, was far too steep. Charging 1000% over cost for $0.12 worth celery and carrots is lame, even more so than getting almost $1 per wing in the smallest portions. Wings are good, but that’s too much money for something that, if it weren’t for the deep fryer and the wing sauce, would be destined for the stockpot in a nice restaurant.

Wingstop is a huge chain with over a hundred stores in California alone. The University Heights locale is the company’s third in San Diego. It bums us out (those of us who’d rather see independent restaurants flourish) to see a massive corporation take another bite out of the local economy. The other two Wingstops are fifteen minutes east and west of the new one, so it’s hard to say, “Yes, we needed another one!” with any confidence. But there’s no denying the place fries up a good wing. If only someone, some independent restaurateur, for instance, could equal the quality and offer it at a more reasonable price. That would be perfect.

The above lesson in judging wing cookery, however, remains valid in all cases and for all wings!

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

Syrian treat maker Hakmi Sweets makes Dubai chocolate bars

Look for the counter shop inside a Mediterranean grill in El Cajon

So, a Wingstop recently opened in University Heights, right next to the Lovin’ Hut. 1901 El Cajon Boulevard, 619-297-9464. Maybe the owners have a sense of irony, sticking a chicken wing shop in next to the all-vegan noodle hut. Maybe the price was just right. Either way, the place was under construction for an eternity before the Wingstop’s doors opened.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2013/aug/09/50985/

People will go nuts over wings. Mostly, they’ll bicker and argue over the appropriate sauce, its level of spiciness and buttery-ness being in or out of contrast; or whether to dip in ranch or blue cheese; or whether drumettes or wingettes are the superior piece. It can go on and on, but there’s really only one, sole criterion that decides whether a wing is right or wrong. The only question to ask is, “Is it cooked right?”

That’s right, just like anything else, wings come down to cooking. Sauces are details, and the tastiest sauce in the world won’t obscure poor cooking.

The thing that matters with wings is whether or not they’re cooked hard enough. It takes a bold hand on the fryer to push the limits on overcooking the bony little chicken bits, but it’s necessary. Wings, being mostly joints, are filled with connective tissue and cartilage. Without sufficient cooking, the meat clings to rubbery, inedible sinews, and that’s just plain wrong. Cooking them hard, almost to the point of overdoing it, turns that cartilage into delicious, crispy goodness.

Yeah, maybe it sounds gross to think about it that way, but there’s no denying that gnawing a wing down until naught but polished bone remains is the ultimate expression of hot wings gastronomy. In that respect, Wingstop nailed it. “It’ll take a while to cook the wings,” they said. “We do them fresh.”

Great. Fry ‘em hard! Each wing relented to persistent chewing, giving up all sorts of chewy, crispy, morsels. ‘Nuff said.

The price of entry, on the other hand, was far too steep. Charging 1000% over cost for $0.12 worth celery and carrots is lame, even more so than getting almost $1 per wing in the smallest portions. Wings are good, but that’s too much money for something that, if it weren’t for the deep fryer and the wing sauce, would be destined for the stockpot in a nice restaurant.

Wingstop is a huge chain with over a hundred stores in California alone. The University Heights locale is the company’s third in San Diego. It bums us out (those of us who’d rather see independent restaurants flourish) to see a massive corporation take another bite out of the local economy. The other two Wingstops are fifteen minutes east and west of the new one, so it’s hard to say, “Yes, we needed another one!” with any confidence. But there’s no denying the place fries up a good wing. If only someone, some independent restaurateur, for instance, could equal the quality and offer it at a more reasonable price. That would be perfect.

The above lesson in judging wing cookery, however, remains valid in all cases and for all wings!

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Wings were not meant to be seen by daylight

Accidentally wandering into a fast food chain and regretting it.
Next Article

Heat Bar and Kitchen

Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader