Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Parma Cucina Italiana

Italian kitchen trying hard to make it stick in quasi-cursed Hillcrest spot.

I liked Caffe Vergnano (they had good coffee), and I thought Taco Bahn was a cool idea even if it was only open for about 14 hours before closing and turning into Urban Eats. I never even got to go there before Ed Bedford revealed that Urban Eats was closing and Parma Cucina Italiana would replace it. Cue the wild calliope music, right?

Anyways, I didn’t bother to check out the Italian spot right away because I guessed it would close immediately, to be replaced by a vegan barbecue joint or something equally non sequitur. It turns out that Parma has managed to stick around and that the food is actually pretty tasty! They also have a commendable wine menu with all sorts of Italian bottlings to divert tipplers.

Stopping in for dinner, I had some carrot and farro soup ($6) that highlighted the meal with its creamy texture punctuated by the chewy bites of stewed grain. Underneath the brassy tasty of the carrots lurked a deep flavor of celery. A sprinkle of grated parmesan cheese wasn’t necessary, but certainly didn’t hurt.

Following the soup, tagliatelle ($12) swam in a meat ragu that tasted of red wine and “low and slow” cooking. The egg pasta doesn’t have the chewy texture of dried pasta, but it holds flavor admirably and the delicate noodles weren’t overwhelmed by the ragu, which can be a problem with this kind of dish.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2013/apr/15/43715/

I wasn’t hungry enough to move into the meat dishes, but the braised beef ($16) and roast pork ($14) both called to me for a future visit. Instead, I used my final bites to put away a tiramisu ($8), sweet and big enough for two, although with less coffee and booze flavor than I like to see in this dish.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2013/apr/15/43716/

The simplicity and brevity of Parma’s menu shouldn’t divert from the potential excellence in execution. While humble, the cooking was very good and almost, but not quite, cheap enough to be a regular stop. For the casual and occasional bite, Parma is just about right.

3850 5th Avenue
619-543-0049
Clossed Mondays
Fri-Sat 11-11, otherwise 11-10

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2013/apr/15/43713/

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

Drinking Sudden Death on All Saint’s Day in Quixote’s church-themed interior

Seeking solace, spiritual and otherwise

I liked Caffe Vergnano (they had good coffee), and I thought Taco Bahn was a cool idea even if it was only open for about 14 hours before closing and turning into Urban Eats. I never even got to go there before Ed Bedford revealed that Urban Eats was closing and Parma Cucina Italiana would replace it. Cue the wild calliope music, right?

Anyways, I didn’t bother to check out the Italian spot right away because I guessed it would close immediately, to be replaced by a vegan barbecue joint or something equally non sequitur. It turns out that Parma has managed to stick around and that the food is actually pretty tasty! They also have a commendable wine menu with all sorts of Italian bottlings to divert tipplers.

Stopping in for dinner, I had some carrot and farro soup ($6) that highlighted the meal with its creamy texture punctuated by the chewy bites of stewed grain. Underneath the brassy tasty of the carrots lurked a deep flavor of celery. A sprinkle of grated parmesan cheese wasn’t necessary, but certainly didn’t hurt.

Following the soup, tagliatelle ($12) swam in a meat ragu that tasted of red wine and “low and slow” cooking. The egg pasta doesn’t have the chewy texture of dried pasta, but it holds flavor admirably and the delicate noodles weren’t overwhelmed by the ragu, which can be a problem with this kind of dish.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2013/apr/15/43715/

I wasn’t hungry enough to move into the meat dishes, but the braised beef ($16) and roast pork ($14) both called to me for a future visit. Instead, I used my final bites to put away a tiramisu ($8), sweet and big enough for two, although with less coffee and booze flavor than I like to see in this dish.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2013/apr/15/43716/

The simplicity and brevity of Parma’s menu shouldn’t divert from the potential excellence in execution. While humble, the cooking was very good and almost, but not quite, cheap enough to be a regular stop. For the casual and occasional bite, Parma is just about right.

3850 5th Avenue
619-543-0049
Clossed Mondays
Fri-Sat 11-11, otherwise 11-10

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2013/apr/15/43713/

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Hillcrest: farewell Urban Eats, welcome Parma

Next Article

Meatball Cucina open for business

Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader