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Feast! Entries for September, 2012

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Ice cream wars: Sorbet from Sicily?

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Nearly seven at night. Gaslamp. Hot. Harried. Hungry. Have a Hamilton. Or two. Hovering around …“Hardware?” “San Diego Hardware,” says the sign. http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/sep/30/32577/ Been here before, now I think about it, but trying to remember, a happy hour beer? Oh …

Sevilla celebrating veinticinco años

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A quarter century is a long time—especially in the restaurant industry, and especially in San Diego’s eats scene. Definitely something worth celebrating, and a business that’s hitting the big two-five will be doing just that. Downtown’s Sevilla (353 Fifth Avenue)—formerly …

Rad Patios

Pannikin La Jolla: Triumph through Patio Superiority

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Easy question: what's the most important thing about a coffee shop? Easy answer: the coffee. That's also the wrong answer. Or at least, it's not always the right one. This is because there is no "correct" answer to such a …

Burrito Barato

Clayton’s Mex Kitchen: It’s Hot in Here!

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Spare a thought for the suffering chefs and cooks of our fair city. These days are hot enough outside. In the kitchen of, say, Clayton's Mex Takeout (1107 10th Street, Coronado, at 10th and Orange, 619-437-8811)... http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/sep/27/32356/ http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/sep/27/32357/ ...you can …

Dîner en Blanc: White the heck?

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You know an idea has merit when somebody copies it. In May, a group did just that with a concept called Dîner en Blanc, bringing their Le Dîner à San Diego to America’s Finest. It created a bit of controversy …

7-Election: the most accurate poll?

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I saw the sign pasted up in the window of a local 7-Eleven. "Help yourself to a steaming hot cup of democracy," it said, and pictured on the sign were two coffee cups. One of the cups was red, had …

Cuatro Milpas: Love the smell of lard-fried tacos in the morning

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Had to check the Most Beloved Taco Shop in the Galaxy. That it had re-opened, that is. Las Cuatro Milpas ("The Four Cornfields," 1875 Logan Avenue, between Crosby and Beardsley, 619-234-4460) had closed on September 17th, but promised to re-open …

Wanton Sandwiches and More at The Promiscuous Fork

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The name “The Promiscuous Fork” begs for an explanation. Since this La Jolla/Bird Rock restaurant also has a good-looking menu, it was just a matter of time before my curiosity got the best of me and I headed down La …

My fave pickle prep found in the Gaslamp

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I love all of my friends, but I’d be lying if said I don’t harbor just a smidge more affection for those who feed me well. One such friend of mine is a warm-hearted Boston transplant who teams with her …

Victorious menu expansion for the "Urban Palate"

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So far, it looks like Empire House is making a serious bid to break the curse that's hung around its location. Ostensibly half-a-block too far west, the building has housed a glut of unsuccessful restaurants in recent years, but Empire …

Happy hour at The Spot

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The Spot in La Jolla has been around just about forever. The building itself dates back to 1900, when it was The White Rabbit (not to be confused with the long-closed children’s book store on Girard of the same name) …

Hot Dawg!

Sausages’re off, love

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Sausage alert on India Street! Jerry, the cook who’s just as much an institution as Pete of Pete’s Quality Meats (1742-1/2 India Street, Little Italy, 619-234-1684), the place that’s famous for the sausages which Pete has always made right here …

Tasty mobile pizza oven surprise

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Two rapidly growing business types that, in taking flight, have dovetailed together nicely over the past few years are brewery tasting rooms and food trucks. They make for a perfect match. Breweries draw a large volume of patrons, but aren’t …

Handmade Pasta

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Located near the beginning of Orange, soon after that broad avenue peels away from the Strand, Island Pasta in Coronado is a humble Italian-American styled pasta house just a stone's throw from the luxury of the Hotel Del Coronado. Crown …

Best Way to Start the Week? Menudo!

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They say beat the heat with heat. So here I am in Barrio Logan looking for that sign at the corner of Newton and Beardsley… Aha. The big “TAMALES” sign, and next to it, “La Doña/New Mexico Café,” (1784 Newton …

RBI's annual Beer Vs. Wine melee

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Back in May, I reported El Bizcocho, the fine dining spot at Rancho Bernardo Inn, was closing in order to undergo a two million-dollar renovation and return as a completely different restaurant. But before that happens, El Biz will play …

Breakfast "extravaganza" at El Zarape

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The big, yellow sign stretched across the corner of El Zarape on Adams Avenue used exactly that word, "extravaganza." How to resist such promise? Feeling partied-out and in need of a substantial breakfast, I ventured out to the Mexican restaurant …

Ice cream challenge: yogurt?!

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Frozen yogurt isn't ice cream, this I know. It deserves an honorable mention though because it has many of the same qualities. It's cold, sweet, creamy, and social. It has the benefit of being nominally healthier, too. I subject frozen …

Ice Cream Challenge: Freeze-Frame Little Italy

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Ice cream wars continue. My new favorite place: Caffe Italia (1704 India Street, 619-234-6767.) Maybe just because I’m feeling hotter than a cat on a hot tin roof. First good thing: in the afternoon, they’re on the shady side of …

Chef Shake-Ups at The Linkery, El Take It Easy

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Since coming on as the chef of local farm-to-table restaurateur Jay Porter’s empire, Max Bonacci has had a lot on his plate—and I’m not talking food. He’s been heading the culinary operations at North Park’s The Linkery (3794 30th Street) …

A bite with Chad White at Counterpoint

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The first time I met chef Chad White was when he was working the line at Point Loma’s since closed Roseville. At the time, he was a clean-cut, eager unknown pushing out ground chuck patties for the restaurant’s weekly burger …

New cafe offers tapas and sangria

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The spot is on University Avenue between a smoke shop and an Ethiopian restaurant and, until recently, it was occupied by a Thai restaurant. Cafe Delano opened up there a few weeks back and already has a coupon out in …

Café terraces: Bigger is better?

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Jes’ thinking about the whole café awning issue (see Outdoor cafes: Gimme shelter!") I was complaining that café owners and the cities that regulate them don’t encourage enough shelter for us outside sitters in these sun-searing days. http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/sep/20/31932/ They had …

New social dining application thinks positive about food

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There is this idea in business called the 80/20 rule. It has many permutations, but one of the most common ones that's thrown about in the restaurant business is that "eighty percent of your sales come from twenty percent of …

Fezziwig's Brewing set for soft open

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Remember the Carlsbad-based brewhouse-in-progress with the steam-punk logo I reported on back in July? No? Well allow me to reacquaint you with Daniel Guy and his Fezziwig’s Brewing Company (5621 Palmer Way, Suite C). Guy is a young homebrewer taking …

Industrial park Indian food

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I'm a self-confessed devotee of South Indian food: give me idli and sambar and keep the fork! That doesn't mean I have a problem with North Indian food, which is good since most Indian restaurants focus on the more familiar …

Fresca Deli: Crazy for Tostilocos

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What’s loaded with cueritos, jicama, japoneses, pepino, chamoy, saladito, Tajin, Valentina and Tostito chips, costs $5, and is good for you? http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/sep/19/31869/ I’ve just found out in National City. I was wandering along East Plaza Boulevard when I noticed this …

First Look: Offbeat Brewing Company

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Aside from the obvious lure of fine, hand-crafted beer, one of the most alluring facets of reporting on upcoming brewing companies is being able to tell the stories behind them. Recently, I heard one that was more touching than most. …

Sushi win!

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Eda-mami sushi in Del Mar has a few things going for it. A mere stone's throw from Torrey Pines, the patio looks out over the marshy lagoon, where wading birds catch their sushi on the run, and the sun drops …

Clem's Tap House

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Clem's, Kensington's package store of record, opened up a tasting room a little while back to showcase the store's selection of fine wines beers. In the back corner of the plaza along Adams Ave, the tasting room has a spare, …

Outdoor cafés: Gimme shelter!

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What price sunshine? Or rather, what cost sunshine? Was in Coronado the other afternoon. Orange Avenue, in the Village. Sunny side of the street. Roasting. Wanted to sit down have a coffee, ice cream, cerveza, anything. And outside, where at …

Eclipse Chocolat celebrates fifth anniversary with expansion announcement

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It’s been five years since Eclipse Chocolat began selling their delicious, innovative artisan chocolates on El Cajon Boulevard in North Park, and owner Will Gustwiller celebrated the milestone anniversary by announcing that the business will be moving to a new, …

Poetic Peohe’s: Not just for the rich

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“Peohe” in Hawaiian means a gathering of friends. That’s what they tell you here on the clunky plank deck at Peohe’s (1201 First Street, Coronado, 619-437-4474). I just happened on their happy hour (3:00 p.m. to 6:30pm, Monday to Friday) …

Sushi fail

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All the sushi places within five minutes walk of my casa were closed the other day. All of them except, Ichiban (1449 University Avenue), that is. But this isn't the story of "the little sushi spot that saved lunch," no, …

"Eat at Recess" Food Truck: Grilled Cheese Heaven

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Today is Monday and when it came time to think about lunch my mind wandered to thoughts of the yummy grilled cheese sandwich I have had several times at the "Eat at Recess" Food Truck. So off I went to …

Perry's Cafe

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When I find a restaurant that is a good value and is already crowded on weekends, my first thought is to keep it to myself. But I must tell you that Perry's Cafe in Old Town works on all counts. …

San Marcos Brewery celebrating others for 19th b-day

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I remember when I was 19. It was quite a year for yours truly. I moved out on my own, got my first steady job, and became a dad. The latter was enough to nudge me to grow up, but …

Gyros, better fries, and pointing fingers at Thomas Keller

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I got a tip a while back about a Greek place in the food court by the Von's on Midway Drive. It's taken me roughly forever to follow up on it, but I visited the Greek Corner Cafe the other …

Go for the beers, stay for the snacks

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Poor House Brewing in North Park isn't much of a bar, at least not yet, although I got the feeling that the thrown together feel is at least partially intentional. Perhaps it's just the name, but I think the mason …

Begin the ice cream challenge

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It's been hot. Really hot. That's not all bad because it gives me a chance to go buck wild with one of my favorite foods--ice cream. Technically speaking, paletas aren't ice cream, but the Mexican-style iced pops bring the same …

1500 Ocean hires well-traveled chef

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When there’s chef turnover at one of your favorite restaurants, one becomes rightfully concerned. Under former chef de cuisine, Brian Sinnott, The Hotel Del Coronado’s fine dining restaurant, 1500 Ocean (1500 Orange Avenue), gained increased recognition among the foodie sect. …

Low-pay sope!

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I guess “make it yourself” has never been in my vocabulary. Till now. Talking National City. I was just turning onto 7th street when here’s this little tortilleria, El Grano de Oro (730 E. 7th Street, National City, 619-474-7401). Kids …

Burrito Barato

Fish tacos are famous(er)!

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My mother forwarded me a link to a Slate.com article that extols the virtues of Baja-style fish tacos. The author envies those of us, "in SoCal with a perfect Baja-style joint on every block, in which case you're very lucky …

The Five Chef Societe

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A table of people having a good time is commonplace in a brewery tasting room. So, when I spied such a scene at Kearny Mesa’s Societe Brewing Company (8262 Clairemont Mesa Boulevard), I counted myself to be in just as …

Super secret sourdough

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The other day, my friend Emily forwarded me an email from one of her friends. It was about a new "bread CSA" that a girl had started up. She was baking three days a week and interested parties could get …

Is it OK to eat at cultish places?

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You gotta read Barbarella’s piece on eating at The Yellow Deli. I’ve been there (315 East Broadway, Vista, 760-631-1888) a couple of times, liked it and them a lot. I mean cheery, businesslike, open people. I knew they were Twelve …

Humphreys Grill at the Sheraton La Jolla Hotel

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Breakfast, lunch and dinner are offered at this approachable hotel dining room. While so many of the "in" restaurants are way too noisy, Humphreys Grill soothes the sole and offers some quality food in the meantime. I have recently fallen …

Saint Archer lands big brewing talent

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A recent trip to Hawaii afforded me everything I’d traveled to the islands in search of—cool breezes, peace, tranquility, an abundance of pork. Check that. I got almost everything I wanted. Being that I visited the Big Island, I missed …

Breakfast at Kensington Cafe

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The first thing that leaps out about the Ken Cafe is that it's on one of the nicest little street corners. It's across the street from a park and the area is as pleasant as you'd expect the mayor's personal …

San Diego Public Market slated for opening on September 12

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The San Diego Public Market will open for business on Wednesday, September 12th, at 9:00 am, giving us one more reason to love our city. SDPM, located at 1735 National Avenue in Barrio Logan, is the brainchild of local entrepreneurs …

La Gran Tapa: Great Spanish Omelet, but "No Tips Accepted"?

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“NO TIPS ACCEPTED." It's the first thing you notice when you get your check. But what does it mean? This is at the oldest of tapa joints in our fair city, the Café Bar Europa – La Gran Tapa (611 …

Brunch at CUSP in the Hotel La Jolla

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The Kimpton Hotel company from San Francisco recently opened a renovated Hotel La Jolla. This hotel was built in 1972 but when you walk in the lobby, you'd never know that it wasn't brand new. The art work is large …

Were I into making distinctions about favorite cups of coffee....

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In the past, I always took my coffee black or with a touch of cream. Never sweet. But, sometime in the past year or two, I started putting sugar in my coffee. I haven't been able to place blame for …

Provisions, Soda & Swine coming to Normal Heights

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Back in July, I reported Consortium Holdings—the company behind Neighborhood, El Dorado, Noble Experiment, Craft & Commerce, and Underbelly—would be opening a new venue near the corner of 30th Street and Adams Avenue. As it turns out, CH headmen Arsalun …

Desperately Needing Niederfrank’s

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’Tis a roasting hot afternoon. Salty trickles run down, stinging my eyes. Reminds me of when I just about passed out in the Anza Borrego. Then I have a refreshing thought. Happens I'm heading up from the Old Town area …

Chefs show up to showdown

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There are a lot of events out there where food from local chefs is counted on as the big draw. They can get a bit monotonous and sometimes leave attendees hungry for more. One annual event that’s always sufficiently fed …

Gustatory delight discovered at cookout

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Every now and again, I luck out and get to uncover/discover for myself some new kind of sauce, condiment, ingredient, or other foodstuff. These revelatory experiences are valuable to me, as my recent chamoy obsession indicates, because it's a rare …

Big Breakfasts at Adams Avenue Grill

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Starting October 1st, the Adams Avenue Grill in University Heights will be expanding breakfast service, formerly available only on weekends (9AM-2PM), to seven days a week. The current brunch menu is somewhat indulgent, featuring plates like a turkey hash with …

Pesca...check that...Vegapalooza: True Food Kitchen

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“It’s my favorite new restaurant!” When I hear a statement like that, my food writer alarm sounds. Coworker, stranger, friend, or foe, I have to ask for the subject of such a major compliment. As San Diego’s number of eateries …

Omygosh it's Ogawashi: But is it eats or art?

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What a difference a couple of weeks make. Last time I was in here the place was clanging with carpentry and metal work. Last night, with three massive glass doors swung out onto Fifth Avenue and C Street, this corner …

Papa Luna's Perpetual Empanada Eating Contest

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Papa Luna’s Empanadas (1404 Garnet Avenue ) hit the Pacific Beach casual dining scene a few months ago with epicurean gusto – garnering an instant following for their stonerly twist on the classic snack pocket, dishing out free ‘nadas on …

Pepita’s cactus breakfast

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How many times? A hundred, maybe, that I have trundled up Highland Avenue aboard the 955 bus, spotted this blushing salmon-pink cottage with the café in front... http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/sep/06/31068/ ...and wished I could jump off and go eat on its little …

Tiki Taka: nothing to do with Mai Tais

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I'll go out on a limb and venture that few people were heartbroken when Porkyland closed in Hillcrest. One less, not particularly outstanding taco shop just doesn't register on people's radars. The Tiki Taka Grill, which has opened up in …

Pescapalooza II: Tender Greens UTC

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Spurred on by a meat- and poultry-less meal with a pescatarian friend the night before, I decided to go the fish-and-veggie route the following day when I met my wife for lunch in University City. Due mostly to geography and …

Man seeks mango, part 3

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Another day, another fruteria sharing a pint-sized room with a money wiring company. This time, it's Botello's Fruit Bar in City Heights. One friend told me about it and I couldn't find it the other day, but I staged a …

Pescapalooza: Uptown Tavern

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Friends bring camaraderie, an ear, a shoulder, fun, and numerous other positives into one’s life. In the case of one of my friends, it’s not so much what she’s added as what she’s subtracted from our time together that I …

Food truck lunch: Hoangie's Banh Mi on Wheels

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I love sandwiches, and I think banh mi is one of my favorites. It has everything I like, crispy-crusted baguette, crunchy hot jalapeno, cool cucumber and herbal cilantro, tangy pickled daikon and carrot, a bit of pate, maybe a smear …

The Prado at Balboa Park

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I was touring a few museums on a recent Tuesday (when San Diego residents get in free) when hunger struck. I was close to The Prado and decided to treat myself to a Cohn Restaurant experience. I was pleasantly surprised …

COOPS West Texas BBQ Still Going Strong!

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I’m a transplanted Texan who has eaten her share of BBQ from one end of Texas to another and I can tell you that Lemon Grove Avenue is home to some very decent BBQ, something not easily found in San …

Burgers Are Famous at Jimmy's Famous But...

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Although the 3 men at our table ordered burgers at Jimmy’s Famous American Tavern (J-FAT) on North Harbor Drive I went ga ga over the entrée salads. The most fun was the Kitchen Sink Salad made of a base of …

Meijo: Gingering up IB

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Hawaiian? Japanese? Down in IB trying to decide which takeout. On my right, Hawaiian. The Big Kahuna (600 Palm Avenue, Suite 117, in Silver Strand Plaza). Place I’ve had really good experiences at before. I liked their palapas and the …

Pick & Rocks Emerge from Snake Oil Shake-Up

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Mixed drink consultancy Snake Oil Cocktail Company came out of nowhere and quickly raised the bar for mixology around San Diego through contracts with restaurants such as Whisknladle and Gaijin Sake & Noodle House. Armed with encyclopedic knowledge of spirits, …

Pfft, "Extra crispy," you say, my dear Colonel? I'll show you CRISPY!

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I can't deny that if I see a sign advertising "fried gizzards," I have to check a place out...even if I don't actually have the gizzards. I'm not 100% crazy about gizzards, truth be told, since they're just about the …

A Tale from Inside Hotel Hell

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Aside from admiring a chef with the chops and the gumption to make the rise he has, I just plain get a kick out of Gordon Ramsay. The scowl, the sarcasm, the expletives—he’s good TV. I regularly tune in to …

Man seeks mango, part 2

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My quest for fresh chili mango took me further out into City Heights. I followed a tip from a guy I know who said there was a place, "out by University and Euclid, but maybe it's El Cajon, I don't …

Hot in Kearny Mesa: Jeong Won BBQ

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“It’s 900 degrees outside and we’re next to a flaming hot grill,” John was laughing as we sat down. We were in Jeong Won BBQ, on Convoy Street between Engineer Road and Opportunity Road. Thanks to decent ventilation and strategically …

Hot Dawg!

Sausages for sail...!

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Carla’s gonna faint. She’s the hot dog guru. Knows her kielbasas from her bratwursts, her American mustards from her French. What happens is I’m at the Festival of Sail... http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/sep/02/30731/ ...between the Star of India and the long arcade of …

Man seeks Mango

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I have become a believer in the combination of mango, hot sauce, and chamoy. The sweet, salty, spicy, savory flavor combo compels me to seek out new combinations of this fruity, snacktime masterpiece. With fingers crossed and appetite high, I …

Boom-boom weekend at the Paradise Café

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Boom! Ka-Boom! The cannons exchange ear-shattering fire. http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/sep/01/30702/ The smoke pours out through gun ports over the waters, the smell of gunpowder drifts past, the warring sail-heavy customs cutters slick past, trying to get in a good position to broadside …

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