Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Scenes from The Sky Room: Part One

Since the first time I tasted Luke Johnson’s food, I’ve openly and vocally touted him as one our city’s most innovative chefs…and one worth holding onto. I was worried the young talent would up and leave town when I heard the restaurant he helmed—Little Italy’s Red Velvet Wine Bar—had folded last year. In the short term, I was most disappointed that I wasn’t able to get in one more meal at Red Velvet before it was shuddered. In the long term, I hoped Johnson wouldn’t move away, taking his interesting and beautifully presented culinary creations with him.

I reached out to him. To my surprise, even in the wake of such bad news, he was very open to talking and sharing his ambitions for the future. He was firm about the fact that he wanted to stay in San Diego, though he did express concern about the fact he had no idea of any local eatery that was suited for his style of cooking: posh, cutting edge gourmet cuisine presented in a tasting menu-only format.

His plan was to start his job search, but be selective. Whoever he worked for next had to be open to the food he was interested in creating, and ready to let him have his way with the multi-course methodology. If that didn’t work out, he supposed that would dictate a move to another market with restaurants more geared toward his style. I crossed my fingers and started to wonder about venues that would have interest in or use for a chef like him. The list I was able to assemble was alarmingly short, and every place on it already had an executive chef they were happy with (or so it seemed).

Months went by, during which Johnson and I communicated off-and-on. We both lamented the fact that it seemed the vast majority of restaurants opening across the county were casual venues pumping out menus made up of upscale takes on comfort food or bar snacks. I enjoy such places, but the fact such a high percentage of the new places to open over the last year fit into this mold was a bit disheartening and a setback for the scene as a whole. As much as I love San Diego, it has traditionally been a town of trend catchers. If a dining establishment strikes it big using a particular theme or business model, you can bet there will be scores of restaurateurs who take notice and get busy bringing to life their own version of it in order to cash in on what looks like an easy road to success.

As the one-year mark approached since Red Velvet's demise, it was starting to look as if there was no hope. Yet, even through a brief stint cooking for an experimental pop-up supper club venture (one that quickly proved unworkable and unprofitable…for him, anyway) and months of frustration, Johnson stuck it out and stayed in San Diego. Then, it finally came—a status report email with promise. He had been sought out by representatives of La Jolla’s La Valencia Hotel, and asked if he would like to vie for the open position as executive chef at their fine dining restaurant, The Sky Room (1132 Prospect Street).

As I reported last month, Johnson got the job and, two weeks ago, his first seven-course tasting menu was put out as the sole dining option at the luxurious tenth story haute spot. As one would expect, I got my name on the books as fast as I could. After well over a year since my last trip to Red Velvet, I was eager for another taste of the food that so forcefully and instantaneously won me over and led me to believe Johnson could play a major role in working with San Diego's existing collection of top shelf chefs to advance our county's culinary standing.

But would it be as good as it was? Would over a year of rust slow the chef down? Would the venue and its constraints lead to food that didn’t measure up to the glorious dishes of the past? Check back tomorrow for a course-by-course rundown and find out.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

Pie pleasure at Queenstown Public House

A taste of New Zealand brings back happy memories
Next Article

Escondido planners nix office building switch to apartments

Not enough open space, not enough closets for Hickory Street plans

Since the first time I tasted Luke Johnson’s food, I’ve openly and vocally touted him as one our city’s most innovative chefs…and one worth holding onto. I was worried the young talent would up and leave town when I heard the restaurant he helmed—Little Italy’s Red Velvet Wine Bar—had folded last year. In the short term, I was most disappointed that I wasn’t able to get in one more meal at Red Velvet before it was shuddered. In the long term, I hoped Johnson wouldn’t move away, taking his interesting and beautifully presented culinary creations with him.

I reached out to him. To my surprise, even in the wake of such bad news, he was very open to talking and sharing his ambitions for the future. He was firm about the fact that he wanted to stay in San Diego, though he did express concern about the fact he had no idea of any local eatery that was suited for his style of cooking: posh, cutting edge gourmet cuisine presented in a tasting menu-only format.

His plan was to start his job search, but be selective. Whoever he worked for next had to be open to the food he was interested in creating, and ready to let him have his way with the multi-course methodology. If that didn’t work out, he supposed that would dictate a move to another market with restaurants more geared toward his style. I crossed my fingers and started to wonder about venues that would have interest in or use for a chef like him. The list I was able to assemble was alarmingly short, and every place on it already had an executive chef they were happy with (or so it seemed).

Months went by, during which Johnson and I communicated off-and-on. We both lamented the fact that it seemed the vast majority of restaurants opening across the county were casual venues pumping out menus made up of upscale takes on comfort food or bar snacks. I enjoy such places, but the fact such a high percentage of the new places to open over the last year fit into this mold was a bit disheartening and a setback for the scene as a whole. As much as I love San Diego, it has traditionally been a town of trend catchers. If a dining establishment strikes it big using a particular theme or business model, you can bet there will be scores of restaurateurs who take notice and get busy bringing to life their own version of it in order to cash in on what looks like an easy road to success.

As the one-year mark approached since Red Velvet's demise, it was starting to look as if there was no hope. Yet, even through a brief stint cooking for an experimental pop-up supper club venture (one that quickly proved unworkable and unprofitable…for him, anyway) and months of frustration, Johnson stuck it out and stayed in San Diego. Then, it finally came—a status report email with promise. He had been sought out by representatives of La Jolla’s La Valencia Hotel, and asked if he would like to vie for the open position as executive chef at their fine dining restaurant, The Sky Room (1132 Prospect Street).

As I reported last month, Johnson got the job and, two weeks ago, his first seven-course tasting menu was put out as the sole dining option at the luxurious tenth story haute spot. As one would expect, I got my name on the books as fast as I could. After well over a year since my last trip to Red Velvet, I was eager for another taste of the food that so forcefully and instantaneously won me over and led me to believe Johnson could play a major role in working with San Diego's existing collection of top shelf chefs to advance our county's culinary standing.

But would it be as good as it was? Would over a year of rust slow the chef down? Would the venue and its constraints lead to food that didn’t measure up to the glorious dishes of the past? Check back tomorrow for a course-by-course rundown and find out.

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

The Rumors of My Professionalism Have Been Greatly Exaggerated

Next Article

Musical Chefs

Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader