Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

(Way) Better than Airplane Food

“Well, it’s better than airplane food,” says Ken. “And Surly Jim here makes a good vodka.”

OK, so damned with faint praise on the food front. But hey, even though this is the airport, I’m actually chewing on some pretty nice pot stickers.

I’m here waiting for Jan’s plane to arrive. Carla’s friend from Florida. Coming for a week.

Eating at the airport? For the first time in my life, I’m early. Disturbing feeling. I wandered the hallways looking for something to eat, but just see Starbucks stand-ups and the usual franchises.

Then I spot this dragon, on the floor.

Its long tail leads you into a Chinese fast food place...

...and it's owned by – hey, that Chinese TV chef. Martin Yan. Yan Can.

I recognize his face in a big picture on the wall.

Don’t want to go crazy here. Three big menu boards above the dragon’s head have trad. dishes like Kung Pao chicken ($8.99), Mongolian beef ($9.49).

Too mean for that. But this is so much my m/o: I decide to go for an appetizer. Veggie spring rolls (2 for #4.29. It’s $5.49 for 4). Fine, but then I get tempted by the pot stickers ($4.29 for four, $6.49 for eight). “This is not your ordinary chicken pot sticker,” it says. “It’s light and crunchy, served with a spicy soy sauce.”

What the heck. I go for that too. Get the four. See? Now I’m paying what I would have for the Kung Pao Chicken.

Still, looks pretty good. I follow the dragon tail deep into the bowels of the place, kinda walking parallel to folks heading for their planes. End up sitting at the bar.

“You could have ordered it here,” says Surly Jim. “What can I get you?”

Gotta work after I get Jan home, so I order a St. Pauli N.A. Oh wow, $6.79. Plus tax, $7.32.

Get talking with Ken, guy sitting next to me, the way you do in airports (though how long since I took off in one of those sky trains?).

Ken and Surly Jim

Ken’s from El Cajon. Meeting someone from Seattle delayed by all that weather up north.

Some guy named Joe heading up to snowboard in the mountains says he knows the all-time champ of airport food places.

“Best airport food?” he says. “Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Place that serves only brotwurst and beer cheese soup and Pabst Blue Ribbon. That soup…people fly to Milwaukee just to have it.”

My pot stickers have chicken and veggies inside. The spring rolls are cabbage and carrot, tastes like.

What $16.56 buys

“Actually,” says Surly Jim, who’s really quite a merry feller, “what I like best is that cole slaw salad on your plate. It’s not cole slaw. It’s a vinegar-based mix. Really quite delicious.”

He’s right. Like kim chee.

And – who knew? - it’s hard to leave this little group of guys, instant compañeros. But there’s Jan’s plane announcement. Gate One.

Jan appears. Looking pretty good, considering 9 hours from Jacksonville, Florida, couple of them in Baltimore.

“What’d they give you to eat?” I ask.

“Well let’s see,” she says. “A small pack of peanuts, some Wheat Thins, a Sprite, and the big treat? A tiny pack of mini-pretzels.”

Like Ken said…airplane food…isn’t it a federal crime to link those two words?

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

Drinking Sudden Death on All Saint’s Day in Quixote’s church-themed interior

Seeking solace, spiritual and otherwise
Next Article

Poway’s schools, faced with money squeeze, fined for voter mailing

$105 million bond required payback of nearly 10 times that amount

“Well, it’s better than airplane food,” says Ken. “And Surly Jim here makes a good vodka.”

OK, so damned with faint praise on the food front. But hey, even though this is the airport, I’m actually chewing on some pretty nice pot stickers.

I’m here waiting for Jan’s plane to arrive. Carla’s friend from Florida. Coming for a week.

Eating at the airport? For the first time in my life, I’m early. Disturbing feeling. I wandered the hallways looking for something to eat, but just see Starbucks stand-ups and the usual franchises.

Then I spot this dragon, on the floor.

Its long tail leads you into a Chinese fast food place...

...and it's owned by – hey, that Chinese TV chef. Martin Yan. Yan Can.

I recognize his face in a big picture on the wall.

Don’t want to go crazy here. Three big menu boards above the dragon’s head have trad. dishes like Kung Pao chicken ($8.99), Mongolian beef ($9.49).

Too mean for that. But this is so much my m/o: I decide to go for an appetizer. Veggie spring rolls (2 for #4.29. It’s $5.49 for 4). Fine, but then I get tempted by the pot stickers ($4.29 for four, $6.49 for eight). “This is not your ordinary chicken pot sticker,” it says. “It’s light and crunchy, served with a spicy soy sauce.”

What the heck. I go for that too. Get the four. See? Now I’m paying what I would have for the Kung Pao Chicken.

Still, looks pretty good. I follow the dragon tail deep into the bowels of the place, kinda walking parallel to folks heading for their planes. End up sitting at the bar.

“You could have ordered it here,” says Surly Jim. “What can I get you?”

Gotta work after I get Jan home, so I order a St. Pauli N.A. Oh wow, $6.79. Plus tax, $7.32.

Get talking with Ken, guy sitting next to me, the way you do in airports (though how long since I took off in one of those sky trains?).

Ken and Surly Jim

Ken’s from El Cajon. Meeting someone from Seattle delayed by all that weather up north.

Some guy named Joe heading up to snowboard in the mountains says he knows the all-time champ of airport food places.

“Best airport food?” he says. “Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Place that serves only brotwurst and beer cheese soup and Pabst Blue Ribbon. That soup…people fly to Milwaukee just to have it.”

My pot stickers have chicken and veggies inside. The spring rolls are cabbage and carrot, tastes like.

What $16.56 buys

“Actually,” says Surly Jim, who’s really quite a merry feller, “what I like best is that cole slaw salad on your plate. It’s not cole slaw. It’s a vinegar-based mix. Really quite delicious.”

He’s right. Like kim chee.

And – who knew? - it’s hard to leave this little group of guys, instant compañeros. But there’s Jan’s plane announcement. Gate One.

Jan appears. Looking pretty good, considering 9 hours from Jacksonville, Florida, couple of them in Baltimore.

“What’d they give you to eat?” I ask.

“Well let’s see,” she says. “A small pack of peanuts, some Wheat Thins, a Sprite, and the big treat? A tiny pack of mini-pretzels.”

Like Ken said…airplane food…isn’t it a federal crime to link those two words?

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Railroad Grub in Chinatown

Next Article

Best of 2000: Best Appetizer List

Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader