Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

An Early Visit to Gingham

First, it should be noted that this is not a proper review. Gingham just opened this week, and the pieces are still being set in place; it wouldn't be fair to level our critical six-shooters in its direction just yet. But The Wife and Cherie and Sophia and I stopped in last night for a lil' peekaloo at Chef-Impresario Brian Malarkey's East County eatery in La Mesa.

As we strolled up to the door, I took a gander through the window at the bar:

Back when this was Gio, and before that, when it was the La Mesa Village Garden Restaurant & Bakery, this was kind of an awkward area - disconnected from the main body of the restaurant, more of a pass-through to the patio than anything else. Making it into its own space - a bar, albeit a bar with plenty of tables for dining - was a smart move.

Once inside, we took note of the loud and the crowd - buzz in La Mesa! Imagine! - put in our names, and had a seat in the jumbled lounge just inside the door:

Yes, that's a fanciful photo of an equestrian cow. Yes, those are cowhide cubes. Rusticated whimsy is in full effect here.

We waited about five minutes before something opened up. The tables on the main level are raised and rough-hewn, with steel stools that are not uncomfortable but still gently encourage turnover - appropriate for a restaurant built around a menu where everything is under $20.

"When I heard the name 'Gingham,' I was thinking something more country and with softer edges," said Sophia.

"It's urban cowboy," replied Cherie, and boy howdy, did she mean it. Gingham is, apparently, an irony-free zone.

Urban. Cowboy.

Urban. Cowboy.

Urban cowboy!

Upstairs, however, you can find more traditional (and polished) seating:

Yeah, I'm thinking they'll probably want to hire me to do publicity photos...

Once at our table, we met our waitress, Annie, whose service was maybe our favorite part of the evening.

Annie, on left.

We asked about cocktails, and she told us, "Not yet" - apparently, the restaurant is still in the process of upgrading its liquor license from beer & wine only. She did let us know that when we came back after the liquor license was in place, we would be wise to try the buttered popcorn margaritas, made with "freshly infused" tequila.

The bar in the dining area, its glowing shelves just waiting to be stocked with tequila, freshly infused and otherwise.

So we asked after the house red. "It's really good. Would you like a taste?" A good sign - a house red that warrants a taste beforehand! She returned a minute later, crestfallen. "I'm terribly sorry. We're out of the house red."

"Have you seen the Cheese Shop sketch?" I asked. "'Do you, in fact, have anything to drink at all?' 'No.'"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3KBuQHHKx0

She rolled with the joke, and offered a taste of the Noceto Sangiovese instead. "It's only a dollar more." (Here, she may have meant "A dollar more per glass." The house red was $24 a bottle; the Noceto, $30. But it was good.) We started in asking about the menu, which is geared more toward the evocative than the descriptive. She welcomed the questions. "The menu is designed to encourage conversation," she said. "I've been studying it for four days, so it's good to be able to get it all out of my head." Eventually, we settled on three items from the Bites side of the page: Bacon 'n Eggs (pork belly on toast draped with an egg and sauced up with a just-spicy Hollandaise), Salmon Chips (house-made potato chips sprinkled with chunks of smoked salmon, capers, and aioli, and the Venison Carpaccio, served with greens, slivers of hard cheese, and white beans. (No, I didn't notice the name of the cheese. Told you this wasn't a review.) We would have ordered the fried chicken - The Wife likes to see how it compares to Strouds back in Kansas City - but wouldn't you know it, they were out. Annie assured her that the pork belly was a fine choice.

"I want to ask about that," said The Wife. "Can you tell me a little bit about the pig? Does he run free? Does he have friends?"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2LBICPEK6w

I don't know if Annie's seen Portlandia, but again, she rolled with it. "He has friends."

"What was his name?" I asked.

"He had a name," she answered, "but he only told it to his friends." Well played.

How was everything? Pretty good! When my Salmon Chips arrived, The Wife said, "You just got served tuna casserole, only with salmon. You've got your fish, your potato chips, and your mayonnaise..."

"It is not mayonnaise! It's aioli! Totally different!" Nobody listened. They did, however, agree that the whole thing was a bit too salty, even allowing for the brine on the capers. And the white beans with the venison were a touch firmer than we liked. But the potato chips were really fine, and there weren't nothin' wrong with the pork belly - easily good enough to bring us back when the dust has settled for a more thorough investigation. Maybe then we'll have room for the American Pie dessert - which is, in fact, apple pie with cheese. Told you this was an irony-free zone.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAsV5-Hv-7U

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

Drinking Sudden Death on All Saint’s Day in Quixote’s church-themed interior

Seeking solace, spiritual and otherwise

First, it should be noted that this is not a proper review. Gingham just opened this week, and the pieces are still being set in place; it wouldn't be fair to level our critical six-shooters in its direction just yet. But The Wife and Cherie and Sophia and I stopped in last night for a lil' peekaloo at Chef-Impresario Brian Malarkey's East County eatery in La Mesa.

As we strolled up to the door, I took a gander through the window at the bar:

Back when this was Gio, and before that, when it was the La Mesa Village Garden Restaurant & Bakery, this was kind of an awkward area - disconnected from the main body of the restaurant, more of a pass-through to the patio than anything else. Making it into its own space - a bar, albeit a bar with plenty of tables for dining - was a smart move.

Once inside, we took note of the loud and the crowd - buzz in La Mesa! Imagine! - put in our names, and had a seat in the jumbled lounge just inside the door:

Yes, that's a fanciful photo of an equestrian cow. Yes, those are cowhide cubes. Rusticated whimsy is in full effect here.

We waited about five minutes before something opened up. The tables on the main level are raised and rough-hewn, with steel stools that are not uncomfortable but still gently encourage turnover - appropriate for a restaurant built around a menu where everything is under $20.

"When I heard the name 'Gingham,' I was thinking something more country and with softer edges," said Sophia.

"It's urban cowboy," replied Cherie, and boy howdy, did she mean it. Gingham is, apparently, an irony-free zone.

Urban. Cowboy.

Urban. Cowboy.

Urban cowboy!

Upstairs, however, you can find more traditional (and polished) seating:

Yeah, I'm thinking they'll probably want to hire me to do publicity photos...

Once at our table, we met our waitress, Annie, whose service was maybe our favorite part of the evening.

Annie, on left.

We asked about cocktails, and she told us, "Not yet" - apparently, the restaurant is still in the process of upgrading its liquor license from beer & wine only. She did let us know that when we came back after the liquor license was in place, we would be wise to try the buttered popcorn margaritas, made with "freshly infused" tequila.

The bar in the dining area, its glowing shelves just waiting to be stocked with tequila, freshly infused and otherwise.

So we asked after the house red. "It's really good. Would you like a taste?" A good sign - a house red that warrants a taste beforehand! She returned a minute later, crestfallen. "I'm terribly sorry. We're out of the house red."

"Have you seen the Cheese Shop sketch?" I asked. "'Do you, in fact, have anything to drink at all?' 'No.'"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3KBuQHHKx0

She rolled with the joke, and offered a taste of the Noceto Sangiovese instead. "It's only a dollar more." (Here, she may have meant "A dollar more per glass." The house red was $24 a bottle; the Noceto, $30. But it was good.) We started in asking about the menu, which is geared more toward the evocative than the descriptive. She welcomed the questions. "The menu is designed to encourage conversation," she said. "I've been studying it for four days, so it's good to be able to get it all out of my head." Eventually, we settled on three items from the Bites side of the page: Bacon 'n Eggs (pork belly on toast draped with an egg and sauced up with a just-spicy Hollandaise), Salmon Chips (house-made potato chips sprinkled with chunks of smoked salmon, capers, and aioli, and the Venison Carpaccio, served with greens, slivers of hard cheese, and white beans. (No, I didn't notice the name of the cheese. Told you this wasn't a review.) We would have ordered the fried chicken - The Wife likes to see how it compares to Strouds back in Kansas City - but wouldn't you know it, they were out. Annie assured her that the pork belly was a fine choice.

"I want to ask about that," said The Wife. "Can you tell me a little bit about the pig? Does he run free? Does he have friends?"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2LBICPEK6w

I don't know if Annie's seen Portlandia, but again, she rolled with it. "He has friends."

"What was his name?" I asked.

"He had a name," she answered, "but he only told it to his friends." Well played.

How was everything? Pretty good! When my Salmon Chips arrived, The Wife said, "You just got served tuna casserole, only with salmon. You've got your fish, your potato chips, and your mayonnaise..."

"It is not mayonnaise! It's aioli! Totally different!" Nobody listened. They did, however, agree that the whole thing was a bit too salty, even allowing for the brine on the capers. And the white beans with the venison were a touch firmer than we liked. But the potato chips were really fine, and there weren't nothin' wrong with the pork belly - easily good enough to bring us back when the dust has settled for a more thorough investigation. Maybe then we'll have room for the American Pie dessert - which is, in fact, apple pie with cheese. Told you this was an irony-free zone.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAsV5-Hv-7U

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Last Chance Homeless

Next Article

Charity Begins at Home

Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader