Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Counterpoint

Just a stone's throw from a freeway on-ramp, Counterpoint seems a little out of place on its otherwise unassuming block of 25th Street in Golden Hill. The little, urban tavern is a small space, on the darker side when the sun goes down, that has a cozy atmosphere and a menu designed to accommodate parties of friends who want to sip a few beers and nosh on some classic dishes from European and American public houses.

The selection of wines by the glass ($5-$12) is well thought out and includes plenty of interesting varietals like barbera, gamay, and viognier in addition to the obligatory pinot noir and chardonnay offerings.

This trend continues in the beer listings. WIth a surprisingly big tap list for the size of the place, and a well composed (even if a bit heavy on more oddball items like Scotch ales and sours) selection of bottled beers, there's plenty of stuff for average hopsniffer. Taps tend to be more local, bottles from far, which makes sense.

Pub food unabashedly dominates the menu, though Counterpoint's kitchen innovates some classier touches where appropriate.

A beet salad ($8) demonstrated that someone in the kitchen has a superior ability to cook beets. Neither too soft nor too crisp, the earthy, sweet root veggies were the highlight of the salad. The hazelnut-citrus dressing could have been a little sharper to offset the delightful muskiness of the beets, but some goat cheese picked up the slack in that respect.

Without a fryer--kudos to Counterpoint on that--to produce the iconic Belgian frites that most taverns can't do without, the kitchen has to think a little outside the spud. Instead of potatoes, the cooks are broiling up slices of artisan bread and serving it over a deep puddle of fondue. Not fries, but the pain frites ($6) is quite fun and a more than adequate substitute.

Stepping into a magical land of white-trash-beautiful culinary genius, Counterpoint's fried bologna sandwich ($13) is excellent. Buttery, golden slices of pullman bread house just the right amount of molten cheese and grilled cold cuts. It's simple and extremely perfect for eating with a beer. The little green salad that comes on the side--whether by proximity of design--somehow manages to evoke the taste of bologna, which is just plain cool.

Counterpoint
830 25th Street
619-564-6722
Weekdays 5-12
Weekends 12-12

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

Trump names local supporter new Border Czar

Another Brick (Suit) in the Wall

Just a stone's throw from a freeway on-ramp, Counterpoint seems a little out of place on its otherwise unassuming block of 25th Street in Golden Hill. The little, urban tavern is a small space, on the darker side when the sun goes down, that has a cozy atmosphere and a menu designed to accommodate parties of friends who want to sip a few beers and nosh on some classic dishes from European and American public houses.

The selection of wines by the glass ($5-$12) is well thought out and includes plenty of interesting varietals like barbera, gamay, and viognier in addition to the obligatory pinot noir and chardonnay offerings.

This trend continues in the beer listings. WIth a surprisingly big tap list for the size of the place, and a well composed (even if a bit heavy on more oddball items like Scotch ales and sours) selection of bottled beers, there's plenty of stuff for average hopsniffer. Taps tend to be more local, bottles from far, which makes sense.

Pub food unabashedly dominates the menu, though Counterpoint's kitchen innovates some classier touches where appropriate.

A beet salad ($8) demonstrated that someone in the kitchen has a superior ability to cook beets. Neither too soft nor too crisp, the earthy, sweet root veggies were the highlight of the salad. The hazelnut-citrus dressing could have been a little sharper to offset the delightful muskiness of the beets, but some goat cheese picked up the slack in that respect.

Without a fryer--kudos to Counterpoint on that--to produce the iconic Belgian frites that most taverns can't do without, the kitchen has to think a little outside the spud. Instead of potatoes, the cooks are broiling up slices of artisan bread and serving it over a deep puddle of fondue. Not fries, but the pain frites ($6) is quite fun and a more than adequate substitute.

Stepping into a magical land of white-trash-beautiful culinary genius, Counterpoint's fried bologna sandwich ($13) is excellent. Buttery, golden slices of pullman bread house just the right amount of molten cheese and grilled cold cuts. It's simple and extremely perfect for eating with a beer. The little green salad that comes on the side--whether by proximity of design--somehow manages to evoke the taste of bologna, which is just plain cool.

Counterpoint
830 25th Street
619-564-6722
Weekdays 5-12
Weekends 12-12

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Hennessey's Tavern: Better Than Expected Burger

Next Article

A salad from the most unlikely source

Enjoying beets and greens with a side of cholesterol in North Park
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader