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Empire House Brunch

Hillcrest's "urban palate" serves a commendable breakfast at a fair price

I’ve said nice things about Empire House before, mostly because I think the kitchen there manages above-average execution of the staple dishes that makes up the menu. It took me forever and a day to make it into EH for brunch, but I had the chance to put the restaurant’s breakfast credentials to the test over the weekend.

As with dinner, the menu was on the shorter side, though all the important bases were covered. Longingly, I tried to wrap my head around the idea of a “Benedict burger” ($13.95), but I wasn’t prepared for a hamburger with an order of eggs benedict on top. Since I already know EH’s burgers are to my liking, I reverse engineered the problem by trying the normal eggs benedict ($10).

The eggs were delicately poached and the ham had been sliced thickly. The Hollandaise, while imperfect, was still better than average (which says much of the typical quality of of Hollandaise sauce) and could at least claim rich flavor and a luxuriant texture. Perhaps the biggest surprise was that the side of home fries was served hot. Time and time again, I’m served cool, if not outright cold, sides of potatoes with my breakfast. Getting a piping hot pile of same was a delight.

I must try that Benedict smothered burger. Perhaps some day when I have someone to drive me home afterwards.

Surveying the menu, I liked the look of the “ninja’s nest” (fries covered in bacon, cheese, and a fried egg for $8), as well as the “poor man’s scramble,” which made use of hot dogs, potatoes, and cheddar cheese in a self-consciously white trash departure from conventional breakfast meats. Interestingly, EH’s brunch plates often include side dishes, which normally command an additional premium at the restaurant during dinner hours. The agreeable pricing only serves to strengthen my recommendation of Empire House as a solid destination, now for any mealtime.

127 University Avenue
619-688-9283
Breakfast at 7AM on weekends only

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I’ve said nice things about Empire House before, mostly because I think the kitchen there manages above-average execution of the staple dishes that makes up the menu. It took me forever and a day to make it into EH for brunch, but I had the chance to put the restaurant’s breakfast credentials to the test over the weekend.

As with dinner, the menu was on the shorter side, though all the important bases were covered. Longingly, I tried to wrap my head around the idea of a “Benedict burger” ($13.95), but I wasn’t prepared for a hamburger with an order of eggs benedict on top. Since I already know EH’s burgers are to my liking, I reverse engineered the problem by trying the normal eggs benedict ($10).

The eggs were delicately poached and the ham had been sliced thickly. The Hollandaise, while imperfect, was still better than average (which says much of the typical quality of of Hollandaise sauce) and could at least claim rich flavor and a luxuriant texture. Perhaps the biggest surprise was that the side of home fries was served hot. Time and time again, I’m served cool, if not outright cold, sides of potatoes with my breakfast. Getting a piping hot pile of same was a delight.

I must try that Benedict smothered burger. Perhaps some day when I have someone to drive me home afterwards.

Surveying the menu, I liked the look of the “ninja’s nest” (fries covered in bacon, cheese, and a fried egg for $8), as well as the “poor man’s scramble,” which made use of hot dogs, potatoes, and cheddar cheese in a self-consciously white trash departure from conventional breakfast meats. Interestingly, EH’s brunch plates often include side dishes, which normally command an additional premium at the restaurant during dinner hours. The agreeable pricing only serves to strengthen my recommendation of Empire House as a solid destination, now for any mealtime.

127 University Avenue
619-688-9283
Breakfast at 7AM on weekends only

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4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
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