Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Plumeria: Scaling University Heights on Thai heat scale

“On a scale of 1 to 10, how hot do you want it?”

Stopped in my tracks last night. Walking north on final few yards of Park Boulevard. University Heights, at Adams. Looking for that little kinda French place, Savory Deli & Market. I’d had the best beef Bourguignon ever there.

But…erk?

This has to be it…4661…

Now the sign says Plumeria. A vegetarian/vegan place (4661 Park Boulevard, University Heights, San Diego, 619.269-9989).

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/27/37552/

Look through the window. People eating nuts? Twigs?

I go in anyways, thinking farewell flavor, hello Brussels sprouts.

But It’s Thai. That's hopeful. Thai vegetarian.

Ten minutes later I’m ordering my favorite soup: tom yum. No shrimp, of course, but loads of veggies, and a promise from Jeremy the server that this doesn’t just taste like the real thing, but actually has all the ingredients of the heart and soul of this hot sour soup.

“So,” he says, like, ‘let’s see if you can handle the real thing…’ “How hot would you like it? On a scale of 1-10…”

“And 10 is like dragon’s breath?”

“Ten is the hottest.”

“Well, feeling a little wimpy tonight. Gimme a 9."

I know it could whack me about, but don't they say chili peppers are good for you? Headaches, blood pressure, weight, heart, lots of vitamin C?

“You are sure about this?”

I can see he’s visualizing me exploding like a string of firecrackers all over his dining room.

But can’t back down now.

Result? The 9 is – how can I do this justice? Like a nuclear shock-wave passing through you. Like a pyroclastic flow. Piercingly, gut-wrenchingly hot. Like entering the Center of the Universe. And then, feeling a warm galangal-flavored river radiating out of you.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/27/37554/

Looks innocent enough, with other food, brown rice...

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/27/37555/

And all vegetarian, including tofu, broccoli...

Through the tears I can see the wavy face of Jeremy staring at me, worried. Looks like he’s going to knock on my forehead with his knuckles. See if I'm in.

He’s brought some brown rice.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/27/37556/

Jeremy, with Patty, the owner. Sorry for the shake. Taken under stress...

Me, can’t say anything. Just point to my empty water glass as I wipe my eyes.

But here’s the thing. The heat doesn’t kill the lemon-grassy, sour, rich flavor. When it finally fights to the surface, you realize you’ve made it through purgatory to the Promised Land of heavenly soup flavors. Beautiful.

Plus your hair’s standing on end. New hair style! Just in time for New Years.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/27/37557/

Patty Thongchua: heat? What heat?

More in upcoming Tin Fork.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

Woodpeckers are stocking away acorns, Amorous tarantulas

Stunning sycamores, Mars rising

Stopped in my tracks last night. Walking north on final few yards of Park Boulevard. University Heights, at Adams. Looking for that little kinda French place, Savory Deli & Market. I’d had the best beef Bourguignon ever there.

But…erk?

This has to be it…4661…

Now the sign says Plumeria. A vegetarian/vegan place (4661 Park Boulevard, University Heights, San Diego, 619.269-9989).

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/27/37552/

Look through the window. People eating nuts? Twigs?

I go in anyways, thinking farewell flavor, hello Brussels sprouts.

But It’s Thai. That's hopeful. Thai vegetarian.

Ten minutes later I’m ordering my favorite soup: tom yum. No shrimp, of course, but loads of veggies, and a promise from Jeremy the server that this doesn’t just taste like the real thing, but actually has all the ingredients of the heart and soul of this hot sour soup.

“So,” he says, like, ‘let’s see if you can handle the real thing…’ “How hot would you like it? On a scale of 1-10…”

“And 10 is like dragon’s breath?”

“Ten is the hottest.”

“Well, feeling a little wimpy tonight. Gimme a 9."

I know it could whack me about, but don't they say chili peppers are good for you? Headaches, blood pressure, weight, heart, lots of vitamin C?

“You are sure about this?”

I can see he’s visualizing me exploding like a string of firecrackers all over his dining room.

But can’t back down now.

Result? The 9 is – how can I do this justice? Like a nuclear shock-wave passing through you. Like a pyroclastic flow. Piercingly, gut-wrenchingly hot. Like entering the Center of the Universe. And then, feeling a warm galangal-flavored river radiating out of you.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/27/37554/

Looks innocent enough, with other food, brown rice...

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/27/37555/

And all vegetarian, including tofu, broccoli...

Through the tears I can see the wavy face of Jeremy staring at me, worried. Looks like he’s going to knock on my forehead with his knuckles. See if I'm in.

He’s brought some brown rice.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/27/37556/

Jeremy, with Patty, the owner. Sorry for the shake. Taken under stress...

Me, can’t say anything. Just point to my empty water glass as I wipe my eyes.

But here’s the thing. The heat doesn’t kill the lemon-grassy, sour, rich flavor. When it finally fights to the surface, you realize you’ve made it through purgatory to the Promised Land of heavenly soup flavors. Beautiful.

Plus your hair’s standing on end. New hair style! Just in time for New Years.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/27/37557/

Patty Thongchua: heat? What heat?

More in upcoming Tin Fork.

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Asian Fusion at Cafe Jay

Next Article

Clayton’s Mex Kitchen: It’s Hot in Here!

Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader