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Feast! Entries for December, 2012

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Early look at Rip Current Brewing

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Big promise translates to fine brews at San Marcos' newest brewery

More breweries opened in San Diego County in 2012 than in any year prior. In doing so, many quietly creaked their doors open, instituting soft opens devoid of fan fare. This method allows businesses to train staff, work out kinks …

Empire House Brunch

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Hillcrest's "urban palate" serves a commendable breakfast at a fair price

I’ve said nice things about Empire House before, mostly because I think the kitchen there manages above-average execution of the staple dishes that makes up the menu. It took me forever and a day to make it into EH for …

New Year's Eve black tie (or something) soiree at Craft & Commerce

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Craft cocktail lounge and restaurant hosts four-course dinner.

Craft & Commerce is celebrating New Year's Eve with "An Evening for Ladies & Gentlemen" – a “black tie (or something sorta fancy) soiree” featuring a four course menu presented by the house chef, Jason McLeod. Reservations are available (619.269.2202) …

Karl Strauss’s IPA: double, double, stir in trouble…

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Add lotsa hops, fine. But roasted green chilies?

My beer pick of the week: A brewski with, uh, roasted green chilies in it. Talking about Karl Strauss’s Green Chili Big Barrel Double IPA. I discovered this by accident. Was sitting here at Karl Strauss’s original downtown joint, the …

Playing With Chemistry at Ave. 5 in Hillcrest

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When I pulled up a stool at a tall table in Avenue 5 the other night, the first thing I noticed was how much the place had changed since I'd last been there (for dinner, with David, over four years …

Bottlecraft Part Deux

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Second iteration of popular Little Italy beer shop concept coming to North Park

As the craft beer movement chugs along and the liquid medium proves profitable, bottle shops lined with row upon row of fine glass-encased brews are popping up all over the county. A handful of beer outlets that were ahead of …

Landini's: Little Italy's cheeriest frontage?

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The little pizzeria on India Street has town's most seductive decoration for the season

And the prize for the best-decorated restaurant of the season...has to be Landini's Pizzeria (1827 India Street, Little Italy, 619-238-3502). Come here around sunset and their decorations, combined with the artwork of artist Grant Pecoff, who has the studio upstairs, …

Chennai style

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Vegetable curries in the South Indian fashion at Madras Cafe

A while back, I lavished some praise on Punjabi Tandoor for its hearty curries. Since then, I’ve had the vegetable curries of southern India on my mind, however, so I went back to Miramar in search of Madras Cafe, which …

Plumeria: Scaling University Heights on Thai heat scale

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“On a scale of 1 to 10, how hot do you want it?”

Stopped in my tracks last night. Walking north on final few yards of Park Boulevard. University Heights, at Adams. Looking for that little kinda French place, Savory Deli & Market. I’d had the best beef Bourguignon ever there. But…erk? This …

Veggies and Art at Alchemy in South Park

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I had only been to Alchemy once before, a very long time ago, and it had been a so-so experience, so I just never made my way back. But after running into two people in one week who both professed …

Does A.R. Valentien Live Up to the Hype?

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"Why is a meal at one restaurant so much more expensive than a meal at another?" I asked David, as I drove us north toward A.R. Valentien. The restaurant, located at the Lodge at Torrey Pines was where David wanted …

A Spike joint

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Fish house taking over former Horton Plaza-adjacent shoe store

Ever heard of a guy named Spike Africa? Me either, but soon, the name of this mid-twentieth century seafarer known by some as the “President of the Pacific Ocean,” will adorn the façade of a new restaurant in the Gaslamp …

Wings for North Park

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Imperial Beach-based wing chain sells tasty hot wings and not much else

The North Park outlet of New York Buffalo Wings is (I believe) the fourth store for the local mini-chain, heretofore restricted to the south bay and east county. They’ve occupied the old Zia’s building, selling primarily wings and ribs. Sure, …

Clayton's delivers: Coronado's morning-after comfort food

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Think of it as your head's recovery ward

Some come for the food. Me, I come for the cash register. http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/26/37462/ Okay, not quite true. Came here to recover from yesterday with some home-cookin' food. But this classic machine is always the first thing I notice: a still-working …

Port Brewing calls Board Meeting

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San Marcos brewery announces a new beer for the New Year

Breweries put out new beers all the time, rendering news about a new brew a bit ho-hum most of the time. Usually, it’s specialty releases—beers made using interesting ingredients, beers registering high in alcohol, or beers made collaboratively by craftsmen …

Mexican in Chinatown? Cheese, chorizo, Cetto, Candelas!

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Top Mexican chef cooks for...Ed?

Martin San Roman has cooked for princes, presidents, and now, uh, me. How come? Serendipity. Always believe in it. Specially this time of year. So I’m in Chinatown, wandering down 3rd, thinking I may as well hoof it to 12th …

Inheriting the Lion's Share

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New year holds new chef, new food for Marina District hot spot

Come 2013, the owners of The Lion’s Share (629 Kettner Boulevard, Downtown) will be playing the part of Mufasa, hoisting up the new heir to their kitchen’s throne among the colorful wildlife adorning their Marina District restaurant's dining room. Filling …

Gettin' Cozy at Bootlegger

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East Village "faux-hibition" lounge has better chairs than food

Bootlegger claims the “allure of a 1920’s speakeasy,” which is a rather dubious proposition unless you’re doing business without a liquor license. Something tells me that it would be easier to get an “illegal bar” vibe without big windows, bright …

Bruno's third year

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University Heights fancy pizza place of record can claim success despite a tough locale

I am amazed that Pizzeria Bruno settled not for survival in a terrible location, but held on for the outright win. I dropped in during a weeknight dinner service and it was jamming! The only spot I could sit was …

Fancy Holiday Time at Tea Upon Chatsworth in Point Loma

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The strong women that make up most of my family like to play at being dainty every once in a while, especially when playing "lady" means getting to enjoy tasty treats. So every now and then we break from our …

Jewish Penicillin at D.Z. Akins

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Last week, it was cold and rainy when I visited the KPBS studios to talk about fun events in town on Midday Edition. The station is located at San Diego State University, just an exit away from San Diego's best …

Cafe Bleu is stuck

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Mission Hills' French-ish bistro has not made significant changes to a menu that needs changing

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/20/37235/ It’s been more than a year since Barbarella took a first look at Cafe Bleu in Mission Hills. Her assessment--that the place was “French-ish” and lacking in polish--seemed spot on at the time and I thought it might be …

Slow Food at Saltbox

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I don't know what it is about that little strip of Fifth Avenue by the trolley tracks that keeps me away -- perhaps it's the fact that whenever I'm visiting the area, I'm in a car and frustrated about the …

Soup Shoppe

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New soup joint in North Park dishes up warm comfort on cold days

As cold and rainy and all around nasty as it’s been lately, soup seems like a fantastic idea, right? Nothing warms the bones better and wards off torpidity like a piping hot bowl of soup, chowder, bisque, stew, pottage, bouillon, …

Coronado: Avenue Liquor's BLT...in Chaldean?

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Talking food where they speak as Jesus spoke

Passing Avenue Liquor last night. Decided to stop in and get the BLT, right here on Coronado's main street, where the median's perfect fir trees are lit up for a mile like, well, Christmas trees. But every time I pass …

Plancha Baja Med: a popup dinner in North Park

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A popup dinner by Chad White highlighting the world famous Baja Med cuisine of Northwestern Mexico

Informed by his world travels and feedback from peers, chef Chad White is hosting his third installment of a popup dinner called Plancha Baja Med at Carnitas’ Snack Shack (2632 University Ave) tonight. White, whose resume includes time with Roseville, …

All hail the waffle king!

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Magical breakfast kingdom in Hotel Circle serves up a one-of-a-kind morning meal

I had no idea. How could I have known? I just saw the little pictogram of an anthropomorphic waffle king on the sign for the King’s Inn and that was enough to pique my interest. http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/18/37098/ In the lobby, where …

Farmers' Market: your own personal fisherman

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John Ford sends his Alaska salmon direct to his San Diego farmers' market fish stall

How many times can you say you know the actual guy who caught your actual salmon? I can tell you exactly who got this wild Alaska salmon Carla and I are eating. It was the "Salmon Slinger," aka John Ford, …

Davanti Del Mar

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I live within a long walk's distance to Davanti Little Italy, but somehow I managed to make my way almost 20 miles away to Davanti Del Mar first. Of course, I was catching a flick at the new only-movie-theater-I'll-go-to, Cinepolis, …

Mehburgers

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Cool house vibe and lackluster burgers in La Jolla Village

As I’ve said before, I like it when old houses get turned into restaurants. The whole ‘we’re eating the living room!’ aesthetic lends an Old World feel to the dining experience that comforts me. La Jolla’s Public House, at the …

Gumbo with the Wizard of Oz

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Ed returns to the counter of the Unknown Gumbo King to try the Real Thang

So guess what? I did come back (See “The Sixth Avenue handwarmer,” below). http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/16/37028/ I'm here at the Sixth Avenue Bistro (1165 6th Avenue, downtown, 619-239-4194). Same stool, same bar, but this time next to Shane and Karen on the …

The Sixth Avenue handwarmer

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Napoleon and nachos on Sixth Avenue: Handwarming, belly-filling

Me? Napoleon? I swear. Strangest things happen at the trolley stop at 5th and B. Tonight I’m just standing, doing the usual thing of hurry up and wait. But through the cold, that cozy-lookin’ place at 6th and B calls …

Tour de Cheesesteak

Tour de Cheesesteak: final stage

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The Tour rolls into El Cajon for the last steak sandwich I'll eat for a good while

The final stop on the Tour was a hard one to make. Philly Steak Subs in El Cajon closes early--7PM on the weekdays — and getting out there in a timely fashion proved difficult for me as I’m accustomed to …

Million dollar java

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Encinitas coffee shop validates prime real estate with fine espresso

Condominium’s in the lofts at Moonlight Beach (intersection of the coast highway and Encinitas Blvd) were/are being offered for well in excess of a million dollars, or so I heard from a friend up in north county as we hit …

It’s a Proper pity

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"Time, gentlemen please!" for Proper Gastro Pub

Sad to say ta-rra: Proper Gastro Pub (right in the Ballpark park area at 795 J Street, at 8th, 619-255-7520). Walked past the other day and the big arched cream stone and brick portico with “Simon Levi Company” etched into …

Kiwi invasion!

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First PB, then downtown, then OB, now Little Italy: Kiwi-style pubs are taking over, mate

Something great is happening to that rambling old house across from the Firehouse Museum at Cedar and Columbia in Little Italy. http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/11/36838/ It’s already well-known. Dede Alpert had her offices here... http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/11/36841/ ...Lori Saldaña had her offices here too. It’s …

Tour de Cheesesteak

Tour de Cheesesteak: stage 9

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Nearing the end, the Tour heads north for a good sandwich, under the wire

Responding to the umpteen different assertions that I had to go there, I rolled in to Philly Frank’s in San Marcos at about thirty seconds to closing time with my sheepish request for a sandwich before they kicked me out. …

Toma Sol: Seekey's a find

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Literary cafe spawns writers (and sustainable panini) on West Washington

Was almost tempted. A Starbucks, shining out from the second level of the new Von’s on West Washington. So glad I didn’t. Because a block further up I hit this booky nook of a coffee-panini place with some kind of …

Plancha Baja Med: a popup dinner

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A popup dinner by Chad White highlighting the world famous Baja Med cuisine of Northwestern Mexico

Informed by his world travels and feedback from peers, chef Chad White is hosting his second installment of a popup dinner called Plancha Baja Med at Carnitas’ Snack Shack (2632 University Ave) this Tuesday, December 11. White, whose resume includes …

Green Chefs?

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"Top Green Chef" competition raises questions about the future of restaurant energy consumption

A week ago, the Port of San Diego’s Green Business Network (a mouthful of a name, that) staged a competition between a few chefs who work in portside restaurants. The challenge was a conventional, Iron Chef-style throwdown, the only catch …

Best Dim Sum in Town?

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I go through dim sum phases -- for about a year, Jasmine was at the top of my list. But, after so many sloppy shells in my shrimp dumplings, the smell of mildew emanating from the old carpet, the rickety …

Nautical nosh

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Cozy Wine Pub could be good for going out before you go out

Point Loma’s Wine Pub bucks the trend of giving wine bars cutesie names. The space, however, is quite precious with its modern accents and vaguely nautical trim that seems appropriate to the neighborhood. The entire dining area is one, sweeping …

Cauldron of Flavor

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The name Tofu House is mildly misleading, as this Korean restaurant on Convoy in Kearny Mesa is not fit for vegetarians. Though extra-silken tofu can be found in each boiling pot, most selections come with some kind of meat, and …

Southern comfort in Poway

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Luc's Bistro offers southern style comfort food with a bit of European flair

Southern style comfort food is not what you would expect to find in a nondescript strip mall in Poway. In fact, when I stopped at Luc’s Bistro for dinner after a beer tasting foray in North County, I was under …

Solace in Encinitas

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It was back in October, when I was in the area to be a guest on David Boylan's KPRI radio show, Lick the Plate, that I first became aware of chef and restauranteur Matt Gordon's North County restaurant and bar, …

Blind Burro: Busy being born

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Latest in good-time cluster expanding again at 7th and J

"We've been working on this ten weeks," says Pat Gallaher, the foreman. "I'd give it another ten days we should be good to go." http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/07/36646/ Pat This is a few days ago. He's talking from a little crane inside this …

Tour de Cheesesteak

Tour de Cheesesteak: stage 8

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Just as things are getting difficult on the Tour, a surprise stage victory by an unlikely contender!

I didn’t want to leave the house and go down to Point Loma. It was cozy at home and I could have gotten into bed and stood a chance of finishing Dead Souls before the library sends a death squad …

Snail Pizza? Si!

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On a moonlit night in TJ, Baja Med delivers a whole 'nother gastronomic world

Snail pizza? I check the menu again. Oh yes. There it is under “Pizza Baja Med.” “Escargots,” $12 for the chico (“small”) size. I’m here, nine at night, sitting in a converted warehouse. OK, not really converted. The big ol' …

Izakaya Masa, Japanese Treasure in Mission Hills

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Friends and foodies have been telling me forever to check out Izakaya Masa -- the little Japanese restaurant with no sign that is tucked into the corner of a strip mall on Fort Stockton Drive -- but it wasn't until …

Tour de Cheesesteak

Tour de Cheesesteak: stage 7

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"I'll have the cheesesteak...with the works...and a hooker on the side."

I won’t mince words, Ultimate Philley’s looked like a shithole. It’s on the “wrong” side of the 805, in the no man’s land between that and the 15, and it almost looks like a pawn shop or a sketchy cell …

Breakfast? Honey-Do!

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At Honey's in Encinitas you can do healthy and wicked at the same time

Up here in the land of nuts and twigs and Swami surf breaks, you kind of expect to combine good-for-you and good-to-taste in every menu item. So I hive into Honey’s Bistro (632 South Coast highway 101, Encinitas (760-942-5433). http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/05/36497/ …

Tour de Cheesesteak

Tour de Cheesesteak: stage 6

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A trip to the land of exact change and substantial sandwiches

The Tour wasn’t slated to stop at Giorgino’s until later, but complications in the world caused things to go all haywire and I found myself madly dashing to Golden Hill in search of cheesesteak on a foggy evening. I’d been …

The Case of the Naughty Constable

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Mysterious sausages invade East Village!

What do a Naughty Constable, Juicy Scandal, Flagrant Seeds, and Tasty Treason have in common? They’re all crazy-interesting sausages you can have in the sausage board ($9)... http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/05/36466/ ...at The Village 631 coffee and wine bar (it used to be …

Tour de Cheesesteak

Tour de Cheesesteak: stage 5

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The Tour returns to Pacific Beach to visit the "King" of cheesesteaks

Alex’s Brown Bag is the only stop on the Tour that has an age restriction. It’s in the back of Latitude 32 Pub on Cass Street and the bartender stops everyone to check ID’s before granting access to the inner …

Night Del: Skating, snacking magic

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The Christmas ice rink at the Hotel Del has hot toddies and snacks. Worth the Del premium?

There's no getting around it: Night skating on the oceanfront in Coronado is magic. The rink, the screams, the laughs, the holiday music, the shushing of the skates, -and your hands around a mug of hot chocolate at the edge, …

Authentic Japanese in Old Town

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It's no secret I'm a bit of a Japanophile. I caught it (yes, it's contagious) from my man, whose affinity for Japanese aesthetics and tastes was long developed before we met. We've even been to Japan a few times. Now …

Christmas cookies

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Cooks Confab reunites to celebrate the holidays...and steampunk?

From 2009 to 2010, few local chefs were talked about more than the small group comprising a culinary consortium going by the name Cooks Confab. At the time, the group was just under a dozen strong, but boy did they …

The ritual of cleaning my plate

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Ritual Tavern leaves no room for dessert...this time.

North Park's Ritual Tavern is both a neighborhood and Feast! favorite for their dedication to local beer and high quality food. Brandon Hernandez has kept us abreast of changes in the kitchen and, of course, Beer Week events. Ian Pike …

Cocktail, Cotija and Corn

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The few times I've sought out Barrio Star, I always end up in Downtown or Hillcrest because I can never remember the side street off of Fifth (it's Nutmeg), and I'm too stubborn to map it, always assuming I'll "just …

Two hour limit

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Tio Leo's weekend brunch is a place to find zen, darkness, and cheap mimosas

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/dec/03/36333/ Walking into Tio Leo’s in Bay Park (5302 Napa Street) was like stepping onto a set from Golden Girls. Maybe it was Holiday Inn color scheme, or the the frosted glass partition embossed with toucans and jungle leaves that …

I Went to the Airport…to Eat!

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In the past, airports were hardly the place one would consider going to for a good meal. Times change and airports are looking to reinvent themselves as a destination outside of travel with art exhibitions, shopping, and high-end dining experiences. …

Isola - More Than Just Pizza

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My latest go-to place in Little Italy for solid food and reasonably priced, good Italian wine is Isola Pizza Bar. For a little background on the place, check out what Mr. Tin Fork himself wrote back in May. Though it's …

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