Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Bullfight Bisque

Last night I did the unthinkable: I walked into Dobson’s. That’s the downtown magnet for the power elite.

Actually, was just hanging around for a bus. I recognized Paul Dobson, the bullfighter-owner, talking outside. I thought, what the heck. As long as they have a happy hour, I might be able to handle it.

Paul Dobson

This was around five. They did.

I took a big breath and walked through the hallowed doors into this varnished wood, clubby place. Discrete kitchen at back. Alex, a big, friendly guy, ruled his bar. Found myself a spot, ears burning, trying to figure out who’s a judge, who’s a pol from City Hall… . And, yes. A happy hour menu. Half a dozen items from $8, up to $12, $13. Things like burgers, crab, lamb chops…I glommed straight onto the first one: Dobson’s mussel bisque en croûte, $8. Cheapest on the list, plus anything mussel gets my vote. And I ordered the beer deal, Red Trolley draft for $2.

What a ceremony: white cloth napkin laid out on the bar, cloth-napkin-wrapped flatware, a great chunk of beautiful crunchy bread, butter, that beer, and this neighbor Jim, a lawyer who’s willing to talk to a stranger and make him feel at home. Talk about the deer and wild turkey he sees every day on his way to work from Julian. A feller could start to feel like a real gent in here.

But the star, oh man, was the mussel bisque. Michael, from the kitchen, brought this kind of giant cup on a plate with golden pastry splurging over it and a dip in the middle. Then he produced a large bottle of Harvey's Bristol Cream sherry with a long pourer attached. OMG. He pours!

Michael tips a long, ibis-beaked pourer, and sends down a dollop of the golden stuff into the soup.

The taste: creamy, dreamy, winey. The soup’s loaded with mussels. Damn, it was good. Guess I should have had wine with it, but Trolley was the deal.

What $10 buys

I even got to talk to the great Dobson himself. Really nice guy. Says he found the recipe for this in Normandy, France, when he was touring in a VW Vanagon with his wife. Wild and stormy day. Lingered over lunch, met the chef, spent the rest of the day talking, brought this recipe home.

Also turns out his place has a helluva history. Been a bar since the Spreckels building opened, 98 years ago. This actual mahogany counter top was shipped around the horn back around 1913.

’Course I miss my bus, and the next. But for ten bucks, it's been a good ride.

Happy hour’s 4 to 7 p.m.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

Temperature inversions bring smoggy weather, "ankle biters" still biting

Near-new moon will lead to a dark Halloween

Last night I did the unthinkable: I walked into Dobson’s. That’s the downtown magnet for the power elite.

Actually, was just hanging around for a bus. I recognized Paul Dobson, the bullfighter-owner, talking outside. I thought, what the heck. As long as they have a happy hour, I might be able to handle it.

Paul Dobson

This was around five. They did.

I took a big breath and walked through the hallowed doors into this varnished wood, clubby place. Discrete kitchen at back. Alex, a big, friendly guy, ruled his bar. Found myself a spot, ears burning, trying to figure out who’s a judge, who’s a pol from City Hall… . And, yes. A happy hour menu. Half a dozen items from $8, up to $12, $13. Things like burgers, crab, lamb chops…I glommed straight onto the first one: Dobson’s mussel bisque en croûte, $8. Cheapest on the list, plus anything mussel gets my vote. And I ordered the beer deal, Red Trolley draft for $2.

What a ceremony: white cloth napkin laid out on the bar, cloth-napkin-wrapped flatware, a great chunk of beautiful crunchy bread, butter, that beer, and this neighbor Jim, a lawyer who’s willing to talk to a stranger and make him feel at home. Talk about the deer and wild turkey he sees every day on his way to work from Julian. A feller could start to feel like a real gent in here.

But the star, oh man, was the mussel bisque. Michael, from the kitchen, brought this kind of giant cup on a plate with golden pastry splurging over it and a dip in the middle. Then he produced a large bottle of Harvey's Bristol Cream sherry with a long pourer attached. OMG. He pours!

Michael tips a long, ibis-beaked pourer, and sends down a dollop of the golden stuff into the soup.

The taste: creamy, dreamy, winey. The soup’s loaded with mussels. Damn, it was good. Guess I should have had wine with it, but Trolley was the deal.

What $10 buys

I even got to talk to the great Dobson himself. Really nice guy. Says he found the recipe for this in Normandy, France, when he was touring in a VW Vanagon with his wife. Wild and stormy day. Lingered over lunch, met the chef, spent the rest of the day talking, brought this recipe home.

Also turns out his place has a helluva history. Been a bar since the Spreckels building opened, 98 years ago. This actual mahogany counter top was shipped around the horn back around 1913.

’Course I miss my bus, and the next. But for ten bucks, it's been a good ride.

Happy hour’s 4 to 7 p.m.

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

New Latino Squared

Next Article

La Gran Tapa: Great Spanish Omelet, but "No Tips Accepted"?

Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader