Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Pupusa Search: Victory on Imperial!

Still thinking about real pupusas -- okay, dreaming of real pupusas -- so last night I took my own advice: Go to the source.

Well, not quite El Salvador itself. But I happened to be up Imperial Avenue way, Grant Hill, at 25th.

Decided to take a hike east. Whistling “Singing in the Rain,” natch. Knew it was somewhere up here. I pass 26th, 27th, a couple of carnicerias, iglesias, mostly houses with dark little gardens.

Cross 28th…aha!

There, glowing in the dark like a mothership from beyond the clouds, she sits. El Salvadoreño. Pupusa Central.

Kinda varnished golden inside. Looking warm, dry, and, even with it being a rainy Wednesday night and all, abuzz. Not packed, but no way empty either.

Inside it’s all varnished timber, gold-brown paint with green columns and painted ropes kinda lassoing each wall.

Plus, huge black-and-white photos of places like the presidential palace in San Salvador.

A Bible’s open at a page highlighting a text. Wooden plaque has been chiseled to say “Welcome, Bienvenidos!”

Francisco, the welcoming waiter

Luis, a Salvadoreño chowing with a bunch of gringo friends, says this is definitely the best pupusa place in town. And because it’s late (gone eight), I order what he’s having.

Also because it looks so fabulous. Big square platter loaded with pupusas, tamales, enchiladas, sour cream, frijoles, fried sweet plantain bananas, and yucca.

Not cheap. It’s the $16.99 sampler platter. But I figure this is for two, and I’ll take most of it home.

Sampler platter

Pork and cheese pupusas

Chicken enchilada

Yucca (cassava) fries

Pork tamal

Plantains

Curtido (fermented cabbage) side

It’s all delish, specially the pork-and-cheese pupusa. Thick, generously stuffed oval tortilla, basically. Tang it up with a touch of salt and dip it in the sour cream…heaven.

Also, the deep-fried ground-beef pastel. Actually, most everything is fried. They have hot sauces in bottles, but as Francisco says, heat’s not a Central American thing.

I eat maybe a third, plus glug a nice bottle of Salvadorean Goya Cola Champagne soda ($2.25).

He heh. Long as I can get it home through this rain, me and Carla’s got a midnight feast a-comin’.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

Two poems by Marvin Bell

“To Dorothy” and “The Self and the Mulberry”
Next Article

At 4pm, this Farmer's Table restaurant in Chula Vista becomes Acqua e Farina

Brunch restaurant by day, Roman style trattoria by night

Still thinking about real pupusas -- okay, dreaming of real pupusas -- so last night I took my own advice: Go to the source.

Well, not quite El Salvador itself. But I happened to be up Imperial Avenue way, Grant Hill, at 25th.

Decided to take a hike east. Whistling “Singing in the Rain,” natch. Knew it was somewhere up here. I pass 26th, 27th, a couple of carnicerias, iglesias, mostly houses with dark little gardens.

Cross 28th…aha!

There, glowing in the dark like a mothership from beyond the clouds, she sits. El Salvadoreño. Pupusa Central.

Kinda varnished golden inside. Looking warm, dry, and, even with it being a rainy Wednesday night and all, abuzz. Not packed, but no way empty either.

Inside it’s all varnished timber, gold-brown paint with green columns and painted ropes kinda lassoing each wall.

Plus, huge black-and-white photos of places like the presidential palace in San Salvador.

A Bible’s open at a page highlighting a text. Wooden plaque has been chiseled to say “Welcome, Bienvenidos!”

Francisco, the welcoming waiter

Luis, a Salvadoreño chowing with a bunch of gringo friends, says this is definitely the best pupusa place in town. And because it’s late (gone eight), I order what he’s having.

Also because it looks so fabulous. Big square platter loaded with pupusas, tamales, enchiladas, sour cream, frijoles, fried sweet plantain bananas, and yucca.

Not cheap. It’s the $16.99 sampler platter. But I figure this is for two, and I’ll take most of it home.

Sampler platter

Pork and cheese pupusas

Chicken enchilada

Yucca (cassava) fries

Pork tamal

Plantains

Curtido (fermented cabbage) side

It’s all delish, specially the pork-and-cheese pupusa. Thick, generously stuffed oval tortilla, basically. Tang it up with a touch of salt and dip it in the sour cream…heaven.

Also, the deep-fried ground-beef pastel. Actually, most everything is fried. They have hot sauces in bottles, but as Francisco says, heat’s not a Central American thing.

I eat maybe a third, plus glug a nice bottle of Salvadorean Goya Cola Champagne soda ($2.25).

He heh. Long as I can get it home through this rain, me and Carla’s got a midnight feast a-comin’.

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Empanada Kitchen vs. Silvias Pupuseria: Argentina vs. El Salvador

Because cattle of the pampas is what Argentina’s all about.
Next Article

City Heights' Pupuseria

Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader