Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Ambushed by Birria

It's around 1:30 p.m.

Walking through the barrio, and all the time being reminded of Tijuana itself. The street life, the food, the friends, the long late lunches.

It specially reminds me of it here on Beardsley, as I head down to the trolley.

View of New Mexico Cafe from National Avenue

Then, just as I'm crossing Newton, and passing the well-beloved New Mexico Café (1794 Newton Avenue)...

...I notice a little place attached like a caboose to its back end.

Has a sandwich board...

...a mural on the outside...

...a green tile roof, orange stucco front, and a cloth banner saying "Viva Birria."

Huh. Birria. Kind of stew. Suddenly think: Haven't had birria since Mercado Hidalgo in TJ. Goat meat. Loved it.

So I walk in to this yellow-and-gray room strewn with pictures from the Revolution.

Pancho Villa, charros with guns sitting on the cowcatcher of some old steam engine, Villa on horseback leading a column of rebels.

Victoria, the lady who's running the place says they have birria, but beef, not goat. "People are not so into goat on this side of the line," she says.

Beef? That's okay. I order the small ($5.50; large is $7.50).

"This is the most delicious birria north of the border," says Darlene. She and a bunch of friends from the Crosby Chiropractic clinic nearby are having lunch. Birria tacos ($1.75), "and these are the best tortillas."

Sergio, Jessica, Victoria, Stephanie, Bianca

I sit down at an old-fashioned pink-and-blue wooden booth, and Victoria brings the bowl of birria. A soup with shredded beef. But it's not as simple as it sounds. It has a real seductive taste. Complex, sort of winey. She brings the tray of chopped onions, sliced radishes, cilantro, and lemon wedges. I put 'em and squeeze 'em all in. Oh man. Such a treat.

Now Victoria brings the tortillas.

"And they also have the best tortillas," says Darlene. "The flavor..."

"That's because I dip them in the birria juices and beef drippings," says Victoria.

The tortillas

I swear. These tortillas do have a wicked flavor. So we're not in Mexico yet, but this might be the nearest thing right here. I'm coming back.

And I think it's going to be on a Tuesday.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

At Comedor Nishi a world of cuisines meet for brunch

A Mexican eatery with Japanese and French influences

It's around 1:30 p.m.

Walking through the barrio, and all the time being reminded of Tijuana itself. The street life, the food, the friends, the long late lunches.

It specially reminds me of it here on Beardsley, as I head down to the trolley.

View of New Mexico Cafe from National Avenue

Then, just as I'm crossing Newton, and passing the well-beloved New Mexico Café (1794 Newton Avenue)...

...I notice a little place attached like a caboose to its back end.

Has a sandwich board...

...a mural on the outside...

...a green tile roof, orange stucco front, and a cloth banner saying "Viva Birria."

Huh. Birria. Kind of stew. Suddenly think: Haven't had birria since Mercado Hidalgo in TJ. Goat meat. Loved it.

So I walk in to this yellow-and-gray room strewn with pictures from the Revolution.

Pancho Villa, charros with guns sitting on the cowcatcher of some old steam engine, Villa on horseback leading a column of rebels.

Victoria, the lady who's running the place says they have birria, but beef, not goat. "People are not so into goat on this side of the line," she says.

Beef? That's okay. I order the small ($5.50; large is $7.50).

"This is the most delicious birria north of the border," says Darlene. She and a bunch of friends from the Crosby Chiropractic clinic nearby are having lunch. Birria tacos ($1.75), "and these are the best tortillas."

Sergio, Jessica, Victoria, Stephanie, Bianca

I sit down at an old-fashioned pink-and-blue wooden booth, and Victoria brings the bowl of birria. A soup with shredded beef. But it's not as simple as it sounds. It has a real seductive taste. Complex, sort of winey. She brings the tray of chopped onions, sliced radishes, cilantro, and lemon wedges. I put 'em and squeeze 'em all in. Oh man. Such a treat.

Now Victoria brings the tortillas.

"And they also have the best tortillas," says Darlene. "The flavor..."

"That's because I dip them in the birria juices and beef drippings," says Victoria.

The tortillas

I swear. These tortillas do have a wicked flavor. So we're not in Mexico yet, but this might be the nearest thing right here. I'm coming back.

And I think it's going to be on a Tuesday.

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Grasshoppers and Goats

Next Article

Much Ado About Mutton

Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader