KAICHI, THE JAPANESE SURFER, has seen the faces of dead samurai in the tubes of waves he has ridden. Since surfers are often spiritual, it should be no surprise that Japanese surfers would be especially …
August 3, 1989
KAICHI, THE JAPANESE SURFER, has seen the faces of dead samurai in the tubes of waves he has ridden. Since surfers are often spiritual, it should be no surprise that Japanese surfers would be especially …
From the freeway a half-mile across on the other side of Rose Canyon, it must look like a muscle car convention in the glare of the floodlit parking lot. Someone says that the security cops have blinders on.
I was in back with Wil and Rudy and Rudy’s two boys. Wil and I had just graduated from UCSD some months ago. Rudy has never been to college, but he had been in the army.