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Stories by Matthew Suárez

An awkward ménage à trois

When I first met Oliver Castañeda a couple years ago, he was running a small coffee shop named El Gnomo (The Gnome) in downtown Tijuana in the alley known as Pasaje Gomez. When Pasaje Gomez …

Loving and loathing the peso in Tijuana

“The dollar keeps getting more expensive! Isn't it awesome?” Jimmy told me excitedly one payday a couple months ago. At age 20, Jimmy was my youngest coworker while I was working in retail. He had …

October 1, 2015
Searching for marlin in Tijuana

Every Saturday morning I play a pick-up game of soccer with friends from San Diego and Tijuana. The field we play on varies each week, but it is always south of the border. When we …

An overwhelming array of toppings south of the border

My mom loves this pizzeria situated almost at the end of the boardwalk on Playas de Tijuana (half a mile south from the border wall). We went there as a family for Mother’s day and …

Tijuana taxis take on Uber

On September 11, Tijuana city leaders held a meeting at the chamber of commerce (CANACO) with citizens, representatives of public transit, and other authorities to discuss conflict between taxis and Uber. The meeting started an …

September 14, 2015
Latest Panca mural in Tijuana defaced

"There's a generational gap," explains David Peña, who moved south of the border about a year ago with his brother after graduating with a B.A. in art from CalState Long Beach. David teamed up with …

Greasy indie burgers and fries inside Colectivo 9

The Gastrocourt Colectivo 9 opened on September of last year and has grown in popularity and volume. What was once an empty hallway leading to the semi-hidden food court is now a bustling row of …

Humo’s hot dogs

Humo Avenida Ocampo between Boulevard Agua Caliente and Calle 11, Tijuana In his vegetarian days, Reader reviewer Chad Deal visited the Telefónica Gastro Park, didn’t try any meat, and still called the location an undeniable …

Businessmen, public defender, and college professor humiliate a homeless man

The image of a businessman holding a cord tied around a homeless man's neck outside a bar in Ensenada's tourist district while his friends laugh was published on Wednesday, July 22. A clear abuse of …

July 24, 2015
Chun kun!

“Chun kun!... Chun kun!” A Chinese woman yells as she pushes a stroller that holds a greasy cardboard box through the streets of downtown Tijuana. She stops as soon as someone shows interest and says …

July 18, 2015
Argentinean empanadas, straight from Tucumán

Since my brother married a Tijuana local, most of the recommendations I receive on where to eat in Tijuana have come from the two of them. When I was short on cash and tired of …

Pet-, anarchist-, and women-friendly

As the 33rd annual book fair in Tijuana was coming to an end, a completely different book fair was starting up. The first fair of independent publications hosted by Raices Infoshop, Food Not Bombs, Publicaciones …

July 10, 2015
Borderland Noise

The second installment of Borderland Noisefest landed at La Caja Fuerte, a newer venue in the art and culture passageway of Pasaje Rodriguez, Tijuana. Featuring bands and projects from Los Angeles, San Diego, and Tijuana, …

July 10, 2015
Mexicali's Hotel of the Deported Migrant closes

Since January of 2010, El Hotel del Migrante Deportado (Hotel of the Deported Migrant) in downtown Mexicali gave free shelter, food, access to showers, clean clothes, and general support to over 300,000 deported people and …

La Brownie Girl partners with Munchin Donuts

Maria Fernanda (MaFer) Treviño, also known as La Brownie Girl, biked around Tijuana delivering brownies to customers and coffee shops that sponsored her products. Her popularity grew as she made appearances at music festivals and …

Welcome to Mexico. $22.50, please

Entering Tijuana through the San Ysidro pedestrian border crossing is nothing like going to the United States. Instead of waiting in line for hours on a crooked sidewalk while beggars and salesmen of all types …

June 26, 2015
Tijuana’s Bresca

The corner of 6th and Constitución is near the epicenter of Tijuana’s active nightlife. Eight years ago this corner hosted La Chupiteria, an after-hours bar frequented by foreigners and extreme partiers. The bar got shut …

Tijuana doesn’t want another 2008

On May 1, at around 1 a.m., a friend of mine, Danger Dave, got stabbed four times in the torso on Calle Sexta. He was rushed in an ambulance to Tijuana’s Hospital General almost an …

June 18, 2015
San Diego Reader 2015 Fun issue

Urban Adventures Beach Town Suburban Ocean & Bay Backcountry Mexico

June 10, 2015
Flavors that had never appeared in a folded tortilla

Tacos El Rey Calle Segunda (2nd) and Avenida 5 de Mayo, Centro, Tijuana Like many taco stands in Tijuana, Tacos El Rey has no menu anywhere. Except this is not a taco stand but a …

Reader writers tell stories about Mom

Wonder and Hope — Mom always convinced me it would be an adventure. By Ian Anderson The Animal Keeper— Animals spoke to my mother “in a language only she understood.” By Whitney Butler La Gringa …

May 6, 2015
La Gringa Jodida

My mother was born Jody Ann Teschner in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, on July 9, 1957, and raised in the suburbs. I don’t know much about my grandparents, except that my grandfather fought as a lieutenant colonel …

May 6, 2015
Get the TJ street dog that includes bacon

The news of dog meat in a Chinese restaurant spread like wildfire. I overheard people in every corner of Tijuana talking about it — while eating street tacos or just walking around. Social media was …

April 16, 2015
Adventurous eats near the puente negro?

A food truck near the Iris Avenue trolley station has caught my attention every time I go by. It has a painting of the same food truck crossing a black bridge and reads “Mariscos El …

Where have all the squatters gone?

I nicknamed the pedestrian bridge, the one near the vehicle bridge as soon as you come into Tijuana through San Ysidro (Puente el Chaparral) "The Bridge of Doom." Because if you found yourself underneath it, …

March 14, 2015
You don't get the tacos, you get the meal

I have resisted the smell of Pollos Don Pepe for about 6 months. I work in the small soccer store next door from the taco shop in the strip mall next to Northgate Market in …

Borderlanding

Baja and San Diego have a long history of partying together. These days, the atmosphere is less belligerence and more participants. Promoters from both sides work together to throw underground shows at new and inventive …

March 4, 2015
Flat screen nation

El Arco Monumental de Tijuana is a similar structure to the Gateway Arch in St. Louis, but a quarter of its size and with a hanging clock. Its official name is “El Arco del Milenio” …

February 19, 2015
A virtually wall-less border crossing

“I am immortal. I got my Sentri card,” posted Erick Mark Cavadas on his Facebook feed in early December. “Don't get too excited, the sentri lane has been sucking,” replied a girl that I did …

February 5, 2015
Down south in Estero La Bocana, Baja Sur

Dolphins play near the shore at sunrise, whiplashing their tails to form a sand circle to entrap their breakfast. The panicked fish jump up directly into the dolphins' mouths – a nature event I'd only …

"I don't think he understood my concept."

Tijuana III Millennium or “La Mona” is an iconic giant sculpture of a naked woman that doubles as a house. The sculpture is five stories tall and weighs over 18 tons. La Mona is located …

December 14, 2014
Meanwhile, in San Ysidro's pedestrian line...

The opening of more car lanes at the end of September greatly improved the San Ysidro border-crossing experience…for those who drive. My coworker who used to cross on foot now drives to work with a …

Across the U.S.A. in 80 days, on foot

My college roommate from Minnesota recently paid me a visit in San Diego/Tijuana. It was his first time in California, so it was my responsibility to show off the amazing beer we have. My friend …

November 11, 2014
Deported veterans help deported moms

“We are having a meeting this Wednesday [October 1] with all the deported moms,” I am told by Yolanda Varona, the director of DREAMers Moms USA/Tijuana. “You are welcome to come. Hector says to bring …

October 13, 2014
Hot girls love to cut

It's been a month since I got a part-time retail job at Sport Zone on Coronado Avenue in Chula Vista. The job is five miles away from my apartment, but sometimes it takes me up …

September 29, 2014
What does Tijuana want?

The pedestrian border-wait line at the San Ysidro crossing is like the longest line in an amusement park…only you reach the end and find out that there is no roller-coaster. There is usually no one …

August 26, 2014
Less beefy, more scrawny

At the edge of Zona Norte, the downtown Tijuana neighborhood that abuts the border, there is a small sports park, Unidad Deportiva Benito Juárez. Families play basketball, kids enjoy an above-ground pool, boxers train inside …

Deported U.S. military veterans activate in Tijuana

The Bunker of the Deported Veterans of America is located on 3rd street, near Parque Teniente Guerrero, on top of Baja Gym. Dark steps behind an iron door next to the gym's entrance lead you …

August 16, 2014
Carnival of danger

“Someone will die,” posted Carlos Arreguin on his Facebook page minutes before the Carnavalito Peligroso I music festival began at Plaza Fiesta. The singer of the power-violence band Calafia Puta was one of the organizers …

Mapping Tijuana

A saxophone and an accordion play in unison, one female dancer and two male dancers freeze in a different position while the rest of Parque Teniente continues with its regular busy life. A couple of …

Tijuana street art disrespected

Tijuana's façade has never been a pretty one; there are not many green spaces, billboards are placed everywhere and with no clear building regulations. City folk have built whatever they want, wherever they want. In …

July 27, 2014
Sunday in the park

Renovations are taking place at Parque Teniente Guererro, Tijuana's downtown park. The plaza with the gazebo in the middle and several grassy sections has been closed to public. A larger area on the corner of …

Tijuana puppy rescue

There are countless stray cats and dogs in Tijuana, and animal control is done mostly by accidental roadkill or by people who kill animals for pleasure. Pet-ownership culture is completely different in a country that …

July 1, 2014
Ehhhhh…PUTO!

“It's like something out of a TV commercial. Watching you guys celebrate the goals, hugging each other, jumping in front of the TV, and drinking Tecates. I don't really get you sports people, but I …

June 26, 2014
Broken record, broken nose

I was people-watching on the corner of 30th and University, wondering which would be the best bar to watch the upcoming World Cup game, United States versus Ghana. An older couple walked by, the white …

June 19, 2014
World Cup, North Park-style

Of the 32 countries participating in the World Cup, only the United States carries on like nothing is happening. Despite hosting the Cup in 1994 and having respectable finishes in 2006 and 2010, most of …

June 12, 2014
Calle Segunda, I hardly know ya

At 5 p.m., a homeless man in a wheelchair tries to cross Second Street but has trouble with the rubble; a transsexual hooker walks by wearing a short dress, stumbling around on her high heels. …

June 10, 2014
They go all night at this park

“Oh, man! You moved to a place next to Parque Teniente? That’s where the male and transsexual prostitutes hang out, robberies happen, and deported homeless people sleep,” a TJ friend informs me. For a whole …

Happy Vegan meal, kitten included

In my search to adopt a kitten in Tijuana, a friend of mine directed me to Claudia Lomelí, an animal-rights activist who spends some of her time rescuing street animals and finding them homes. The …

Thirty samplers later, I was ready to pass out

I woke up in a mansion in Ensenada on Sunday morning not sure how I got there. My new next door neighbor, Freddy, had invited me to the Baja Beer Fest and told me not …

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