First, it's the location: at the Shores, near the venerable La Jolla Beach and Tennis Club. A little piece of Beverly Hills. Cute shops, cafés, trees, flowers, gardens. The Cheese Shop looks out from inside a climbing fig vine. Second, the same family has run the place since 1972. Third: this is the "in-crowd" who munch here. A bunch of cool people sitting outside at the tables tackling everything from foot-long torpedoes to peanut butter-and-jelly sandwiches. Beef and lamb turn on spits, roasting, dripping. But you're here for the cheese, right? And for a cheese sandwich to beat all cheese sandwiches: ask for one stacked with provolone, Monterey jack, cheddar, Swiss, Muenster, Danish Havarti or Norwegian Järlsberg. Or just use cheese as the kicker, as in the spit-roasted leg of lamb sandwich, with tarragon dressing, tomatoes, cucumbers, red onion slices, and crumbled Greek Mizithra cheese.