Name: Michael Curtis Age: 69 From: Sunset Cliffs Location: Sunset Cliffs It was an overcast morning by the Sunset Cliff stairs when Michael Curtis and I started to chat. Curtis has been surfing since 1954. …
March 11, 2019
Surf Diego
Surfing meant partying, like the Gidget movie
Face first into coral reef in Fiji
Amanda was surfing Cardiff Reef on her 9’6″ triple stinger when I reached out to her. “When I’m home I typically like to keep it mellow — I like to walk the board,” she said. …
March 4, 2019
Surfed naked at Blacks Beach
Name: Shona Neufeld Age: 30 From: San Diego Location: Sunset Cliffs Shona Neufeld was walking to her car with board on head when I approached her. Neufeld is from Albuquerque, New Mexico, but she moved …
February 25, 2019
Surfing is a sport, not a lifestyle
Name: Mark Kirchner Age: 57 From: Clairemont Location: Ocean Beach Mark Kirchner and I stopped to chat near the lifeguard tower. Kirchner has been surfing San Diego for about 25 years. “I don’t know what …
February 11, 2019
Surfing kind of saved me from being an alcoholic
Name: James Age: 39 From: La Mesa Location: Ocean Beach Today, Ocean Beach is particularly crowded due to a surf school. I caught up with James as he was heading to the showers after a …
February 4, 2019
Lost vision in the waves
Name: Santiago Guadalupe Age: 30 From: Ocean Beach Location: Tourmaline Surf Park Santiago Guadalupe was heading to the showers, board on head, when we stopped to chat. “I just got this longboard. It’s a Murphy …
January 28, 2019
The most terrifying thing is the stingray
Name: Doc Waske Age: 74 From: La Mesa Location: Tourmaline Surf Park On a sunny day in Pacific Beach, Don Waske was heading to the showers after a morning surf session. Waske started surfing San …
January 21, 2019
In those days, we didn’t have a leash
Name: Inge Morton Age: 80 From: Coronado Location: Tourmaline Surf Park Inge Morton was walking to the showers with board on her head when we stopped to chat. “I’ve been surfing here for 25 years, …
January 14, 2019
I got the nose of my board through my lip
Name: Sean Dunn Age: 24 From: Clairemont Location: Ocean Beach Sean Dunn was heading to the showers in Ocean Beach after a long surf session when I approached him. Dunn learned how to surf here …
January 7, 2019
You step on land, get in the car, and reality hits
Name: Octavio Gonzalez Age: 39 From: Ocean Beach Location: Sunset Cliffs Octavio Gonzalez was sitting on a bench watching the surfers on the water when I stopped to chat. Gonzalez frequents Sunset Cliffs, “because it …
December 31, 2018
You can’t just catch any wave, there’s a pecking order
Name: Kevin Jimenez Age: 36 From: San Diego Location: Ocean Beach Kevin Jimenez was walking on the sidewalk toward Newport Avenue parking lot after a morning surf session. Jimenez usually surfs La Jolla, but today …
December 24, 2018
A world-class wave at Sunset Cliffs
Name: Sam Age: 36 From: Ocean Beach Location: Ocean Beach I met up to chat with Sam at the Newport Avenue parking lot in Ocean Beach. OB is Sam’s local spot, despite occasional crowds and …
December 17, 2018
Ran over by dolphins
Name: Hayden Gore Age: 42 From: Ocean Beach Location: Sunset Cliffs Hayden Gore was heading down the long flight of stairs at Sunset Cliffs when we stopped to chat. Gore first started surfing in South …
December 10, 2018