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South America

Buenos Aires, Argentina: Che Baludo!

I’d heard about Buenos Aires in the spring, but I was apprehensive about the winter. I packed my bags like I was getting ready to go snowboarding. Jackets, thermals and beanies. It being July and …

Medellin, Colombia, Encapsulated

Medellin, enchanted city, home of the silicon buttcheek, where no one remembers the natural light of stars and the sun has barely been named, where the Paisas wear their souls on their skin and old …

Regal Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

“If you have a problem that annoys you, then you have two problems. Knock one of them out.” This local man’s statement lived with me during the week I spent in Brazil’s second-largest city (and …

Rainforest in Ecuador: Misahuallí and Jatun Sacha

While visiting Ecuador, if you lack the time and/or money for a multi-day tour into the Amazon with a stay at a jungle lodge, you can still get a taste of the rainforest just five …

Christmas in Ecuador: The Casa de la Niñez Project

I had for months anticipated the opportunity to spend two weeks in Ecuador over the Christmas holidays. It is a country of incredible biodiversity and natural beauty. During my first week there, I volunteered at …

Joan Wilder’s Destination City: Cartagena, Colombia

You remember her: that romance novelist in the classic film Romancing the Stone with Michael Douglas. Her sister had been kidnapped in Colombia and was awaiting rescue in Cartagena. Perhaps due to the real-life cocaine …

September 22, 2009
Wine Route: Cafayate, Argentina

Wine-flavored ice cream? It’s possible at Helados Miranda in Cafayate, Argentina (just off the main square). Since this was just one of many stops on the wine tasting tour, I opted for a double-scoop spacer: …

"Death Road," Camino de las Yungas, Bolivia

One of Bolivia’s most popular tourist activities is mountain-biking “Death Road.” There are many tourist agencies that make this day tour from La Paz; they’ll charge you about $75 for bike, helmet, food and transport. …

September 8, 2009
Quito, Ecuador

Nestled on the eastern slopes of the Pichincha Volcano lies Quito, Ecuador’s mountainous capital city. This Andean jewel is rich in culture, history and life, making it a can’t-miss destination for South America-bound travelers. Getting …

La Ciudad Perdida, Santa Marta, Colombia

So you’ve tasted the magic of Machu Picchu. Now you look for another adventure — and you hear those fateful words, “La Ciudad Perdida” (The Lost City). Hidden (literally) in the crevices of northern Colombia’s …

Galápagos Islands, Ecuador

The Galápagos, the islands that inspired Charles Darwin during his voyage on the HMS Beagle, are a tropical mecca of unique wildlife. My journey there was unforgettable; here are some tips on how you can …

Hiking the Inca Trail, Machu Picchu

Signing up to hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu seemed easy enough: pay some money, sign up a couple months ahead and hit the gym. After all, they said that any reasonably fit person …

Montevideo, Uruguay

“I feel like I’m back in 1950s America,” commented a visiting American. An amiable people, first-world atmosphere and slow pace of life combine to make Montevideo, Uruguay. Smaller than the state of Washington, Uruguay is …

Maracanã Stadium, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

“Pandemonium” would be an appropriate word to describe a soccer, or futebol, match at the venerable Maracanã stadium in Rio de Janeiro. Maracanã is the mecca of futebol in Brazil – every child in this …

July 15, 2009
Best Empanadas

The kids rolled and patted. Celia sautéed onions and ground beef. I watched and learned. We were having an Argentinean day in our home. Hot empanadas were to be served for dinner. My friend Celia …

September 3, 2008

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