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Switzerland and Tibet off northern Argentina Route 40
Okay for a spunky Fiat with Pirellis.
Red rock country known as the Quebrada del Concha
This circuit of highway 307, fabled Ruta 40, and the mythical Cuesta del Obispo is a road trip with visuals that stretch any adjective.
This circuit launches out of the busy sprawl of San Miguel de Tucuman, situated 1500 vertical meters beneath one of the prettiest towns in Argentina, the stunning Tafi del Valli. Highway 38 southwest from Tucuman leads 40 kilometers to Acheral, where Highway 307 marks the start of the grandest of motor tours. The road climbs ever upward, the plains of Tucuman give way to lush jungle, the Yungas; profuse vegetation overhangs the track.
Las Flechas
The route follows the serpentine course of the Rio Sosa, where the switchbacks are relentless. The curves and climb along the river make it difficult to keep eyes on the road, but the verdant scenery, massive basalt boulders, and heaving waterfalls are irresistible. After an ascent out of the cloud jungle, which could take either 40 minutes or half the day, the road gains the top of the Irish green grasslands of Taft del Valle.
My first impression was of Switzerland and a hamlet out across a mighty basin composing a jumbo blue reservoir. It’s a convenient stop for some local llama sausage and goat cheese, and gas stations should the tank need some juice.
Which might be a capital idea as this next leg across the high desert first climbs another 1000 vertical meters in 22 km to the summit of Abra del Infiernillo at 3042 meters, just shy of 10,000 flat feet. From here it’s a long downhill through some high, lonesome desert that seems a cross between Arizona reservation country and lowland Tibet. Sweeping ridges on both sides and the surface becomes gravel for stretches through a string of small towns
Cuesta del obispo
Some are likely worth a stop, but we were hell bent for Cafayate, one of the jewels of the north. The flatland approach through miles of vineyards arrives in the micro Mendoza, whose plaza is the center of town. The mountains north and west seem like Arizona, while the red rock to the east is Utah canyon lands. There’s good food and places to stay at the Yate, most within walking range and cheap.
But there is no destination, only the road, so we continue east towards that red rock country known as the Quebrada del Concha, but turn left towards San Carlos following the 40. The paved surface becomes gravel in short order, but the surface is graded and semi smooth washboard.
Toward the north and approaching a sea of gigantic rock fins, you are faced with the Quebrada de las Flechas – a lengthy stretch for the next half hour or so. The road winds around hundreds of these massive angled formations, with rolling curves and narrow slots between many. Legendary Ruta 40 gradually becomes sketchier beyond the Flechas, and after sliding into funky little Molinos, the blind curves and ultra tight spots call for undivided attention.
It’s a relief to reach Cachi, set on the side of a giant mountain at 2500 meters. The village is situated on this incline and as usual centered on a plaza with a few cafes and shops surrounding. This is, like much of the region, strongly indigenous, and many people speak Quechua instead of Spanish. After a late afternoon foot ramble around town and up through the large municipal cemetery, a couple off Salta beers and killer empanadas put us to rest.
Highway 9
Next morning was up and out early and the lone gas station in Cachi was out until the next truck arrived, time unknown. Thus a modern reminder of sage strategy from back in Baja days, to tank up at almost any open station just in case.
At Payogasta, a twisting 10k away, we turn right off the 40 onto the 33, steadily rising on good blacktop through beaut high desert into Cardones National Park. This long perfectly straight stretch culminates at an extraordinary high pass named the Questa del Obispo, elevation 11,000 + and usually in a cloud.
A tiny shrine shelters a local saint looking over the aerial view to the west into the abyss. It’s solid advice to sit and ponder the expanse and especially the precarious looking track switchbacking way below. From the top down it’s Switzerland and brawny Andes massifs left and right as the 33 winds doggedly back to civilization.
This particular gorge is lovely beyond reason, becoming more lush and overgrown along the way. The splendid scenery slowly becomes less so, but still green and clean as the we arrive in Chicoana, where we turn north to Salta.
The final leg of this ramble was never planned, or even considered, as we actually drove the implausible Highway 9 towards Jujuy and the Humahuaca. Since my previous experience involved buses between the towns, I didn’t have the need to study the road maps much.
As it turned out, this 80 mile connection was the curviest, overgrown, dipsy- doodlest tight two-lane jungle joyride ever, even putting the Cuesta del Obsipo to semi shame. This trail ran through the dense, luxuriant hills northeast of Salta and, although full of wild hairpins and blind curves, was a joy to wheel a spunky Fiat with Pirellis. There wasn’t much traffic, as it was enough to stay in my lane through the deep green scape. But for a quality jungle grand prix, take the road much less traveled.
Here's something you might be interested in.
Switzerland and Tibet off northern Argentina Route 40
Okay for a spunky Fiat with Pirellis.
Switzerland and Tibet off northern Argentina Route 40
Okay for a spunky Fiat with Pirellis.
Red rock country known as the Quebrada del Concha
This circuit of highway 307, fabled Ruta 40, and the mythical Cuesta del Obispo is a road trip with visuals that stretch any adjective.
This circuit launches out of the busy sprawl of San Miguel de Tucuman, situated 1500 vertical meters beneath one of the prettiest towns in Argentina, the stunning Tafi del Valli. Highway 38 southwest from Tucuman leads 40 kilometers to Acheral, where Highway 307 marks the start of the grandest of motor tours. The road climbs ever upward, the plains of Tucuman give way to lush jungle, the Yungas; profuse vegetation overhangs the track.
Las Flechas
The route follows the serpentine course of the Rio Sosa, where the switchbacks are relentless. The curves and climb along the river make it difficult to keep eyes on the road, but the verdant scenery, massive basalt boulders, and heaving waterfalls are irresistible. After an ascent out of the cloud jungle, which could take either 40 minutes or half the day, the road gains the top of the Irish green grasslands of Taft del Valle.
My first impression was of Switzerland and a hamlet out across a mighty basin composing a jumbo blue reservoir. It’s a convenient stop for some local llama sausage and goat cheese, and gas stations should the tank need some juice.
Which might be a capital idea as this next leg across the high desert first climbs another 1000 vertical meters in 22 km to the summit of Abra del Infiernillo at 3042 meters, just shy of 10,000 flat feet. From here it’s a long downhill through some high, lonesome desert that seems a cross between Arizona reservation country and lowland Tibet. Sweeping ridges on both sides and the surface becomes gravel for stretches through a string of small towns
Cuesta del obispo
Some are likely worth a stop, but we were hell bent for Cafayate, one of the jewels of the north. The flatland approach through miles of vineyards arrives in the micro Mendoza, whose plaza is the center of town. The mountains north and west seem like Arizona, while the red rock to the east is Utah canyon lands. There’s good food and places to stay at the Yate, most within walking range and cheap.
But there is no destination, only the road, so we continue east towards that red rock country known as the Quebrada del Concha, but turn left towards San Carlos following the 40. The paved surface becomes gravel in short order, but the surface is graded and semi smooth washboard.
Toward the north and approaching a sea of gigantic rock fins, you are faced with the Quebrada de las Flechas – a lengthy stretch for the next half hour or so. The road winds around hundreds of these massive angled formations, with rolling curves and narrow slots between many. Legendary Ruta 40 gradually becomes sketchier beyond the Flechas, and after sliding into funky little Molinos, the blind curves and ultra tight spots call for undivided attention.
It’s a relief to reach Cachi, set on the side of a giant mountain at 2500 meters. The village is situated on this incline and as usual centered on a plaza with a few cafes and shops surrounding. This is, like much of the region, strongly indigenous, and many people speak Quechua instead of Spanish. After a late afternoon foot ramble around town and up through the large municipal cemetery, a couple off Salta beers and killer empanadas put us to rest.
Highway 9
Next morning was up and out early and the lone gas station in Cachi was out until the next truck arrived, time unknown. Thus a modern reminder of sage strategy from back in Baja days, to tank up at almost any open station just in case.
At Payogasta, a twisting 10k away, we turn right off the 40 onto the 33, steadily rising on good blacktop through beaut high desert into Cardones National Park. This long perfectly straight stretch culminates at an extraordinary high pass named the Questa del Obispo, elevation 11,000 + and usually in a cloud.
A tiny shrine shelters a local saint looking over the aerial view to the west into the abyss. It’s solid advice to sit and ponder the expanse and especially the precarious looking track switchbacking way below. From the top down it’s Switzerland and brawny Andes massifs left and right as the 33 winds doggedly back to civilization.
This particular gorge is lovely beyond reason, becoming more lush and overgrown along the way. The splendid scenery slowly becomes less so, but still green and clean as the we arrive in Chicoana, where we turn north to Salta.
The final leg of this ramble was never planned, or even considered, as we actually drove the implausible Highway 9 towards Jujuy and the Humahuaca. Since my previous experience involved buses between the towns, I didn’t have the need to study the road maps much.
As it turned out, this 80 mile connection was the curviest, overgrown, dipsy- doodlest tight two-lane jungle joyride ever, even putting the Cuesta del Obsipo to semi shame. This trail ran through the dense, luxuriant hills northeast of Salta and, although full of wild hairpins and blind curves, was a joy to wheel a spunky Fiat with Pirellis. There wasn’t much traffic, as it was enough to stay in my lane through the deep green scape. But for a quality jungle grand prix, take the road much less traveled.
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