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Dalu Hawaiian BBQ more about flavor than looks

Most of Rancho San Diego's new island vibe eats are not a feast for the eyes

A poke bowl from new Rancho San Diego restaurant Dalu Hawaiian BBQ
A poke bowl from new Rancho San Diego restaurant Dalu Hawaiian BBQ

On the table in front of me, a take-out box nearly overflows with steamed rice, macaroni salad, and a shining pile of teriyaki. I can make out the short rib, beef, and chicken in there, but all are so glazed and charred they're barely distinguishable, except for the mosaic of bones lining the flanken cut ribs.

Place

Dalu Hawaiian BBQ

2451 Jamacha Rd., El Cajon

This is what Dalu Hawaiian BBQ calls the "Best Aloha" mix plate ($18.25), and while I ordered it for the minor intrigue of sampling teriyaki three ways, now that I've spent a few minutes trying to frame it into a photo, I'm forced to accept this food is just not photogenic. The new East County restaurant's cheery pineapple tablecloths can only do so much.


Teriyaki beef, chicken, and short rib


I can't fault the food's mix of sweet, savory, and smoky flavors, though. Dalu serves the sort of meals where the conversation dies the first few minutes the food reaches your table, because everybody's too busy trying to keep their mouth full.


Looking over the rest of the lengthy menu, I find long lists of the same meals presented slightly differently. These traditional Hawaiian plate lunches with combos or individual proteins, ranging from $14 to $20. The same proteins reappear in the column of slightly smaller mini plates go for $12-14, and again as rice bowls (minus the mac salad) for $13-15.


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A kalua pork mini plate


The best alternatives for my eyes would be either the garlic shrimp ($16), whole fish ($22), or loco moco ($13.75), but since my mouth is the one doing the ordering, it gets what it wants: a mini plate of kalua pork with cabbage ($13.25). And though it produces an even less colorful pile of loose meat and starchy sides, by its smile I can tell it's satisfied with the choice.


For a moment I think the cheeseburger could step in to be this story's hero photo: named on the burger menu as "Pineapple Beef (The Best)" ($9.75), its standout feature being a slice of pineapple. But the pineapple's nuzzled between mayonnaise and gloopy, melting cheddar, less than stunning on a wide, flat sesame bun. Here too, I offer a sincere, "it tastes better than it looks" recommendation.


The cheeseburger Dalu Hawaiian calls Pineapple Beef (The Best)


I might have to go for a nice shot of the spam musubi, but if you're considering spam for a feature photo, you know you're in trouble. It's almost as though, in Hawaii, there's always something better to look at than whatever is on your plate.


Ultimately, the dish that finally makes it to the top of this story may be the least of them, in terms of flavor. It's not that I don't enjoy the ahi poke bowl ($15), interspersed with sliced cucumber and green onions; it's both satisfying and healthy, just not the tastiest thing I tried (that would be the kalua pork). Nevertheless, its photo might be worth sharing on socials, shot against that cute vinyl tablecloth.

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A poke bowl from new Rancho San Diego restaurant Dalu Hawaiian BBQ
A poke bowl from new Rancho San Diego restaurant Dalu Hawaiian BBQ

On the table in front of me, a take-out box nearly overflows with steamed rice, macaroni salad, and a shining pile of teriyaki. I can make out the short rib, beef, and chicken in there, but all are so glazed and charred they're barely distinguishable, except for the mosaic of bones lining the flanken cut ribs.

Place

Dalu Hawaiian BBQ

2451 Jamacha Rd., El Cajon

This is what Dalu Hawaiian BBQ calls the "Best Aloha" mix plate ($18.25), and while I ordered it for the minor intrigue of sampling teriyaki three ways, now that I've spent a few minutes trying to frame it into a photo, I'm forced to accept this food is just not photogenic. The new East County restaurant's cheery pineapple tablecloths can only do so much.


Teriyaki beef, chicken, and short rib


I can't fault the food's mix of sweet, savory, and smoky flavors, though. Dalu serves the sort of meals where the conversation dies the first few minutes the food reaches your table, because everybody's too busy trying to keep their mouth full.


Looking over the rest of the lengthy menu, I find long lists of the same meals presented slightly differently. These traditional Hawaiian plate lunches with combos or individual proteins, ranging from $14 to $20. The same proteins reappear in the column of slightly smaller mini plates go for $12-14, and again as rice bowls (minus the mac salad) for $13-15.


Sponsored
Sponsored
A kalua pork mini plate


The best alternatives for my eyes would be either the garlic shrimp ($16), whole fish ($22), or loco moco ($13.75), but since my mouth is the one doing the ordering, it gets what it wants: a mini plate of kalua pork with cabbage ($13.25). And though it produces an even less colorful pile of loose meat and starchy sides, by its smile I can tell it's satisfied with the choice.


For a moment I think the cheeseburger could step in to be this story's hero photo: named on the burger menu as "Pineapple Beef (The Best)" ($9.75), its standout feature being a slice of pineapple. But the pineapple's nuzzled between mayonnaise and gloopy, melting cheddar, less than stunning on a wide, flat sesame bun. Here too, I offer a sincere, "it tastes better than it looks" recommendation.


The cheeseburger Dalu Hawaiian calls Pineapple Beef (The Best)


I might have to go for a nice shot of the spam musubi, but if you're considering spam for a feature photo, you know you're in trouble. It's almost as though, in Hawaii, there's always something better to look at than whatever is on your plate.


Ultimately, the dish that finally makes it to the top of this story may be the least of them, in terms of flavor. It's not that I don't enjoy the ahi poke bowl ($15), interspersed with sliced cucumber and green onions; it's both satisfying and healthy, just not the tastiest thing I tried (that would be the kalua pork). Nevertheless, its photo might be worth sharing on socials, shot against that cute vinyl tablecloth.

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The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

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