Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Sicilian-ish in Little Italy, or driving past it

Quick bites and coffee for frequent fliers

A chicken pesto panini
A chicken pesto panini

I’m pretty sure there used to be a Subway franchise in this nonglamorous Little Italy location. Laurel Street marks the northern border of the neighborhood, where restaurants and piazzas give way to industrial zoning and backed up airport traffic. In fact, this storefront sits on the ground floor of a large, airport long term parking garage, and looks across the street at another. There’s a certain sense to putting a fast-food deli here: it makes a convenient place for parkers to buy a quick sandwich before catching the free shuttle to catch a flight.

Place

Sicilian-ish Cafe and Deli

1025 W Laurel St., San Diego

But this is still, technically, the Little Italy side of Laurel still part of a neighborhood most associated with Italy and food (and not necessarily in that order). Which is why I kind of like the approach of the new sandwich shop that’s moved in to replace the chain: it’s called the Sicilian-ish Cafe and Deli. However Sicilian the place is, it’s just Italian enough to provide the likes of torpedo sandwiches, meatball subs, and paninis to the same audience. That being travelers who don’t want better than airport prices for better than airport food.

An Italian-style deli, a more appealing fit to the neighborhood than a fast food franchise


Sicilian-ish is not exclusive to parking garage customers, of course, but it does seem well-suited to meeting the needs of people rolling suitcases. There’s a full espresso bar, serving everything from latte to affogato. And there are a litany of small, snackable items dubbed tavola calda ($6.50 apiece). Italian for “hot table,” in Italy the term usually refers to a cafeteria-style restaurant that serves pre-made food items. Here, they’re describing a set of items themselves, which mainly consist of mini cheese pizzas, tiny ham and cheese calzones, and ravazzzata, a Sicilian street food that sees a small brioche stuffed with a ground meat ragu.

The small, house-baked bites Sicilian-ish calls "Tavola Calda"
Sponsored
Sponsored


Just the sort of tasty morsels that will be long gone by time the shuttle reaches your terminal. If you’re looking for gate food, or something to open on the plane, you have a pleasing choice of hot or cold subs or pressed paninis.


The subs are pretty classic and portable, served tightly wrapped in paper. For just under $14, you can get a standard assortment of cured deli meats (mortadella, capocollo, salami) on an Italian sub, or a spicier assortment of cured deli meats on a spicy Italian sub.

A Sicilian-ish meatball sub

You’ll also find subs of turkey, roast beef, and eggplant parmesan. For two bucks more, you can either get a sub made with imported tuna (kind of ironic, given Little Italy’s tuna fishing history); or meatballs, made from a family recipe. Served on ten-inch rolls, these subs are just good enough to make you row-mates jealous.


Likewise priced between $13.75 and $15.75, the panini sandwiches benefit from use of a house-made, focaccia-like bread. I go for the green appeal of chicken and pesto, which is fine, but for future flights I’m already eyeballing a garlicky soppressata with fontina cheese, or the mortadella with fig spread and brie.

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Reader writer Chris Ahrens tells the story of Windansea

The shack is a landmark declaring, “The best break in the area is out there.”
Next Article

Memories of bonfires amid the pits off Palm

Before it was Ocean View Hills, it was party central
A chicken pesto panini
A chicken pesto panini

I’m pretty sure there used to be a Subway franchise in this nonglamorous Little Italy location. Laurel Street marks the northern border of the neighborhood, where restaurants and piazzas give way to industrial zoning and backed up airport traffic. In fact, this storefront sits on the ground floor of a large, airport long term parking garage, and looks across the street at another. There’s a certain sense to putting a fast-food deli here: it makes a convenient place for parkers to buy a quick sandwich before catching the free shuttle to catch a flight.

Place

Sicilian-ish Cafe and Deli

1025 W Laurel St., San Diego

But this is still, technically, the Little Italy side of Laurel still part of a neighborhood most associated with Italy and food (and not necessarily in that order). Which is why I kind of like the approach of the new sandwich shop that’s moved in to replace the chain: it’s called the Sicilian-ish Cafe and Deli. However Sicilian the place is, it’s just Italian enough to provide the likes of torpedo sandwiches, meatball subs, and paninis to the same audience. That being travelers who don’t want better than airport prices for better than airport food.

An Italian-style deli, a more appealing fit to the neighborhood than a fast food franchise


Sicilian-ish is not exclusive to parking garage customers, of course, but it does seem well-suited to meeting the needs of people rolling suitcases. There’s a full espresso bar, serving everything from latte to affogato. And there are a litany of small, snackable items dubbed tavola calda ($6.50 apiece). Italian for “hot table,” in Italy the term usually refers to a cafeteria-style restaurant that serves pre-made food items. Here, they’re describing a set of items themselves, which mainly consist of mini cheese pizzas, tiny ham and cheese calzones, and ravazzzata, a Sicilian street food that sees a small brioche stuffed with a ground meat ragu.

The small, house-baked bites Sicilian-ish calls "Tavola Calda"
Sponsored
Sponsored


Just the sort of tasty morsels that will be long gone by time the shuttle reaches your terminal. If you’re looking for gate food, or something to open on the plane, you have a pleasing choice of hot or cold subs or pressed paninis.


The subs are pretty classic and portable, served tightly wrapped in paper. For just under $14, you can get a standard assortment of cured deli meats (mortadella, capocollo, salami) on an Italian sub, or a spicier assortment of cured deli meats on a spicy Italian sub.

A Sicilian-ish meatball sub

You’ll also find subs of turkey, roast beef, and eggplant parmesan. For two bucks more, you can either get a sub made with imported tuna (kind of ironic, given Little Italy’s tuna fishing history); or meatballs, made from a family recipe. Served on ten-inch rolls, these subs are just good enough to make you row-mates jealous.


Likewise priced between $13.75 and $15.75, the panini sandwiches benefit from use of a house-made, focaccia-like bread. I go for the green appeal of chicken and pesto, which is fine, but for future flights I’m already eyeballing a garlicky soppressata with fontina cheese, or the mortadella with fig spread and brie.

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

My brother gave up the Reader crossword

Encinitas cliff collapse victims not so virtuous
Next Article

Memories of bonfires amid the pits off Palm

Before it was Ocean View Hills, it was party central
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader