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Gonzo Report: Puente covers Rodrigo’s “Tuyo” at The Garten food and drink collective

The Rose Cosplay was like drinking jam

Plenty of fruit, none of it forbidden — if you’re over 21.
Plenty of fruit, none of it forbidden — if you’re over 21.

Bay Park — a cloudy Sunday in April. Still jacket weather in San Diego. My destination for the day was The Garten. I turned on Sherman off Morena, turned left on Banks, and found my destination at 5322 Banks Street: four businesses sharing a communal space that was once a parking lot. There’s also a wooden stage that resembles a patio deck.

Place

Garten

5322 Banks Street, San Diego

As I walked in, I could hear some cool Latin grooves by the band Puente: Israel Maldonado on guitar & lead vocals, Dante Loaiza on percussion, and my old pal and classmate David Carano on bass. Not the first time I’ve mentioned his name, and probably not the last; it helps that he also plays in Wise Monkey Orchestra and June Bug. It’s possible that I’ll mention the other hombres as well.

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Sponsored

The first business a visitor is likely to encounter is Pizza Cassette, directly to the left of the entrance. Jimmy Twill & Co. will serve you up wood-fired pizza, styled after traditional Neapolitan pies but with a farm California twist, one that supports local farmers and even gardeners. They don’t sell by the slice; it’s $18-22 for a whole pie, which you could share if you wanted to — but which you could, if you’re being honest, probably finish all by yourself. They also offer appetizers, sandwiches made on fresh hot rolls, and Famous Nonna’s Hot Brownie Sundae with house ice cream for dessert. Jimmy handed me a meatball in marinara sauce with Parmesan cheese. It was an effen culinary experience: pork butt and beef loin sausages combined with garlic and oregano — an old family recipe.

He also offered to be my guide through the Garten. “You want mead, wine, or beer? I got you.” Reminded me of Curtis Mayfield’s “Pusherman,” which proved fitting, because just then, Puente started playing Rodrigo’s “Tuyo,” the intro song to the TV show Narcos. But before taking him up on his offer, I decided to grab myself a beer. Headed over to the right side of the property, where Deft Brewing was set up. Deft was the first business to open here: beer started this particular Garten growing. It’s a European-influenced brewery, offering German-, English-, Irish- and Belgian-style beers. $7.50 for a pint. Bay Park Blonde is a good day-drinking beer at 4.9% ABV; Deft Hop Golden is a nice smooth English IPA at 6% ABV; and if you want to go big, get the Doppel Sticke Albeiter at 9.2% ABV. I had one of each. The owner, Mo Nuspl, has created the recipes and grows hops on site. Courtney was my pourer for the day.

It was time to soak up the beer with pizza. I also thought It’d be a good time to take Jimmy up on his offer. I ordered the Queen, their most basic pizza: tomato sauce, mozzarella, basil and Parm. After ordering, I asked Jimmy to take me on a tour of the place. He led me directly to the back, where Oddish Wine does business. They sell wines made with fruits other than grapes, such as guava, blueberries, and pineapple. Host Lauren was there standing by herself, which made it a perfect time to approach. She offered me a pour of my choice. I chose a pineapple Riesling called “Tepache Mode;” it tasted like pineapple sparkling water to me. Their glasses range from $6-12, and their bottles $22-28. Lauren told me their wines are low-intervention, low-filtered, and they squeeze the fruits themselves in the back. They also cap their bottles like beer and soda bottles as opposed to using corks, though Lauren wasn’t sure why.

After I finished up my glass, it was time to head to Lost Cause Meadery. Mead an alcoholic beverage made with fermented honey. Other ingredients such as fruits, spices, and hops can be added. Lost Cause is in the back of the Garten, between Oddish and Deft. The place offers its own vibe, starting with the corridor at the entrance, painted with pictures of big eyeballs. Maybe it was the pineapple Riesling, maybe it was the big German beer, but I felt scrutinized, and was happy to arrive in their big patio space.

I’ve been to the Garten several times, and there’s always one constant: Katie Ancona. The first time I went, she was working at Deft. The next time I went, she was working at Oddish. This time, it was Lost Cause. The only place I haven’t seen her work at is Pizza Cassette. She’s knowledgeable and quick witted, and the first pour she offered that day was a Rose Cosplay, made with wildflower honey, blueberries, and tart cherries. It was like drinking jam. “I’m not in love with this one,” Jimmy said. Instead, the one that hit the spot — for both of us — was Mellow Mel: orange blossom honey, pineapple, plus Citra & El Dorado hops. I could taste the citrus and honey combination.

Jimmy, Katie and I were shooting the shit when David Carano found me. “Hey bud, your pizza is outside on the table waiting for you.” The music was over and my pizza was cold, but it was still a good time.

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Plenty of fruit, none of it forbidden — if you’re over 21.
Plenty of fruit, none of it forbidden — if you’re over 21.

Bay Park — a cloudy Sunday in April. Still jacket weather in San Diego. My destination for the day was The Garten. I turned on Sherman off Morena, turned left on Banks, and found my destination at 5322 Banks Street: four businesses sharing a communal space that was once a parking lot. There’s also a wooden stage that resembles a patio deck.

Place

Garten

5322 Banks Street, San Diego

As I walked in, I could hear some cool Latin grooves by the band Puente: Israel Maldonado on guitar & lead vocals, Dante Loaiza on percussion, and my old pal and classmate David Carano on bass. Not the first time I’ve mentioned his name, and probably not the last; it helps that he also plays in Wise Monkey Orchestra and June Bug. It’s possible that I’ll mention the other hombres as well.

Sponsored
Sponsored

The first business a visitor is likely to encounter is Pizza Cassette, directly to the left of the entrance. Jimmy Twill & Co. will serve you up wood-fired pizza, styled after traditional Neapolitan pies but with a farm California twist, one that supports local farmers and even gardeners. They don’t sell by the slice; it’s $18-22 for a whole pie, which you could share if you wanted to — but which you could, if you’re being honest, probably finish all by yourself. They also offer appetizers, sandwiches made on fresh hot rolls, and Famous Nonna’s Hot Brownie Sundae with house ice cream for dessert. Jimmy handed me a meatball in marinara sauce with Parmesan cheese. It was an effen culinary experience: pork butt and beef loin sausages combined with garlic and oregano — an old family recipe.

He also offered to be my guide through the Garten. “You want mead, wine, or beer? I got you.” Reminded me of Curtis Mayfield’s “Pusherman,” which proved fitting, because just then, Puente started playing Rodrigo’s “Tuyo,” the intro song to the TV show Narcos. But before taking him up on his offer, I decided to grab myself a beer. Headed over to the right side of the property, where Deft Brewing was set up. Deft was the first business to open here: beer started this particular Garten growing. It’s a European-influenced brewery, offering German-, English-, Irish- and Belgian-style beers. $7.50 for a pint. Bay Park Blonde is a good day-drinking beer at 4.9% ABV; Deft Hop Golden is a nice smooth English IPA at 6% ABV; and if you want to go big, get the Doppel Sticke Albeiter at 9.2% ABV. I had one of each. The owner, Mo Nuspl, has created the recipes and grows hops on site. Courtney was my pourer for the day.

It was time to soak up the beer with pizza. I also thought It’d be a good time to take Jimmy up on his offer. I ordered the Queen, their most basic pizza: tomato sauce, mozzarella, basil and Parm. After ordering, I asked Jimmy to take me on a tour of the place. He led me directly to the back, where Oddish Wine does business. They sell wines made with fruits other than grapes, such as guava, blueberries, and pineapple. Host Lauren was there standing by herself, which made it a perfect time to approach. She offered me a pour of my choice. I chose a pineapple Riesling called “Tepache Mode;” it tasted like pineapple sparkling water to me. Their glasses range from $6-12, and their bottles $22-28. Lauren told me their wines are low-intervention, low-filtered, and they squeeze the fruits themselves in the back. They also cap their bottles like beer and soda bottles as opposed to using corks, though Lauren wasn’t sure why.

After I finished up my glass, it was time to head to Lost Cause Meadery. Mead an alcoholic beverage made with fermented honey. Other ingredients such as fruits, spices, and hops can be added. Lost Cause is in the back of the Garten, between Oddish and Deft. The place offers its own vibe, starting with the corridor at the entrance, painted with pictures of big eyeballs. Maybe it was the pineapple Riesling, maybe it was the big German beer, but I felt scrutinized, and was happy to arrive in their big patio space.

I’ve been to the Garten several times, and there’s always one constant: Katie Ancona. The first time I went, she was working at Deft. The next time I went, she was working at Oddish. This time, it was Lost Cause. The only place I haven’t seen her work at is Pizza Cassette. She’s knowledgeable and quick witted, and the first pour she offered that day was a Rose Cosplay, made with wildflower honey, blueberries, and tart cherries. It was like drinking jam. “I’m not in love with this one,” Jimmy said. Instead, the one that hit the spot — for both of us — was Mellow Mel: orange blossom honey, pineapple, plus Citra & El Dorado hops. I could taste the citrus and honey combination.

Jimmy, Katie and I were shooting the shit when David Carano found me. “Hey bud, your pizza is outside on the table waiting for you.” The music was over and my pizza was cold, but it was still a good time.

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