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Surfing secluded breaks makes it much more of an adventure.

Surfing alone is a good way to clear your mind

Andrew(18) surfs Abs off of PLNU campus
Andrew(18) surfs Abs off of PLNU campus

Do you go to school here?

No, I am in high school. I go to the Waldorf School.

Are you ditching school right now to surf?

No… I mean, kind of. It’s senior ditch day.

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Are you going to college near a surf break?

Yeah, I am going to University of Miami. I can still surf but it’s way across the country! The only beach to surf there really is South Beach.

Do you surf every day?

I used to, but now it’s like 2-3 times a week.

How many boards do you have?

Around 20. I collect used boards. I buy them on OfferUp and Craigslist.

Do you have a favorite surf spot?

That’s a tough one. I mean, when I surf, it’s usually here (Abs), Subs, or Sunset Cliffs. You can walk down this beach all the way to the military base, but then they block you off. You can’t go further on land. I really like to walk down here and go to secluded breaks. It makes it much more of an adventure. I try to get away from the local crews. They can be aggressive, but they won’t get aggressive unless you make them get aggressive. It’s easier to just surf by yourself.

Do you always surf solo?

No, I go with friends. Surfing is a super fun social activity for me, but it’s also really nice to just go by yourself to clear your mind.

How long have you been surfing?

Since I was 7. My grandpa bought me a board for Christmas because he used to surf when he was a kid. My dad would take me down to Coronado and just push me into waves. That’s how it all started.

Are you pretty good?

I am above average. But, for me, it’s not about being good. It’s about practicing and having fun. I just want to enjoy it and be at peace with surfing. When you are out there, it’s so relaxing—you are just so focused on watching the waves to see which one to catch. It’s relaxing, but still very thrilling and exciting.

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Andrew(18) surfs Abs off of PLNU campus
Andrew(18) surfs Abs off of PLNU campus

Do you go to school here?

No, I am in high school. I go to the Waldorf School.

Are you ditching school right now to surf?

No… I mean, kind of. It’s senior ditch day.

Sponsored
Sponsored

Are you going to college near a surf break?

Yeah, I am going to University of Miami. I can still surf but it’s way across the country! The only beach to surf there really is South Beach.

Do you surf every day?

I used to, but now it’s like 2-3 times a week.

How many boards do you have?

Around 20. I collect used boards. I buy them on OfferUp and Craigslist.

Do you have a favorite surf spot?

That’s a tough one. I mean, when I surf, it’s usually here (Abs), Subs, or Sunset Cliffs. You can walk down this beach all the way to the military base, but then they block you off. You can’t go further on land. I really like to walk down here and go to secluded breaks. It makes it much more of an adventure. I try to get away from the local crews. They can be aggressive, but they won’t get aggressive unless you make them get aggressive. It’s easier to just surf by yourself.

Do you always surf solo?

No, I go with friends. Surfing is a super fun social activity for me, but it’s also really nice to just go by yourself to clear your mind.

How long have you been surfing?

Since I was 7. My grandpa bought me a board for Christmas because he used to surf when he was a kid. My dad would take me down to Coronado and just push me into waves. That’s how it all started.

Are you pretty good?

I am above average. But, for me, it’s not about being good. It’s about practicing and having fun. I just want to enjoy it and be at peace with surfing. When you are out there, it’s so relaxing—you are just so focused on watching the waves to see which one to catch. It’s relaxing, but still very thrilling and exciting.

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