Favorite surf spot? “The OB Jetty. The waves are really good!
How long have you been surfing? I started surfing about 8 years ago. In the beginning, my dad would take me out surfing and I didn’t like it. Then I did the Junior lifeguard program, and it made me like the ocean and become a lot more comfortable in the water. I started surfing a lot more and starting to really like it.”
What do you love the most about surfing? “Getting barreled.”
Have you ever gotten into any fights in the water? “No fights, but I’ve been around a few. I was surfing at PB Pier once, and these middle-aged guys got into a fight. One of them snaked the other. The guy who got snaked stole the other one’s board and tried to kill him. The other guy put him in a headlock and held him underwater for like 30 seconds. There are [surfers] who get really aggressive and locals that don’t like other people surfing their spot. This beach is actually pretty bad for that, but I surf here a lot so they’re chill to me now.”
Have you seen any interesting wildlife in the water? “There are dolphins all over here [near the jetty]. I see a bunch in PB. Sometimes I think they’re sharks. I thought I saw a shark out here once, and I think I saw a great white when I was camping a few summers ago. It was up in San Onofre. It was fairly close. It was pretty scary. I [swam] in.”
How many surfboards do you have? “I have four boards. I bought all of them off of Offer Up. My most expensive surfboard was probably around $400. My favorite surfboard ever was a JS; it was really fun, but I snapped it. I don’t even know how.”
Any advice for new surfers? “Find a spot that is really chill and easy and just go a lot.”
Favorite surf spot? “The OB Jetty. The waves are really good!
How long have you been surfing? I started surfing about 8 years ago. In the beginning, my dad would take me out surfing and I didn’t like it. Then I did the Junior lifeguard program, and it made me like the ocean and become a lot more comfortable in the water. I started surfing a lot more and starting to really like it.”
What do you love the most about surfing? “Getting barreled.”
Have you ever gotten into any fights in the water? “No fights, but I’ve been around a few. I was surfing at PB Pier once, and these middle-aged guys got into a fight. One of them snaked the other. The guy who got snaked stole the other one’s board and tried to kill him. The other guy put him in a headlock and held him underwater for like 30 seconds. There are [surfers] who get really aggressive and locals that don’t like other people surfing their spot. This beach is actually pretty bad for that, but I surf here a lot so they’re chill to me now.”
Have you seen any interesting wildlife in the water? “There are dolphins all over here [near the jetty]. I see a bunch in PB. Sometimes I think they’re sharks. I thought I saw a shark out here once, and I think I saw a great white when I was camping a few summers ago. It was up in San Onofre. It was fairly close. It was pretty scary. I [swam] in.”
How many surfboards do you have? “I have four boards. I bought all of them off of Offer Up. My most expensive surfboard was probably around $400. My favorite surfboard ever was a JS; it was really fun, but I snapped it. I don’t even know how.”
Any advice for new surfers? “Find a spot that is really chill and easy and just go a lot.”
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