“The recent death of Dolores Robledo, who founded San Diego’s legendary Roberto’s Taco Shop chain with her husband Roberto in the ‘60s, was a somber moment for San Diego’s Mexican food community, and for the city that loves that food as well,” says Gordito Ranchero, head of Governor Newsom’s Cultural Appropriation Commission. “Somber because we lost a piece of living history, but also because it serves to remind us of the very real problem of Bertofication. It was one thing when various family members began to break away from the Roberto’s chain because of differences over how to run the business. But these days, it seems like anybody and everybody can slap a ‘berto’ on their name and open up a taco shop. Even if they’re not descended from Dolores and Roberto. Worse, even if they’re not descended from Mexicans. What we’re proposing is a simple ancestry check. As long as they have at least one Hispanic grandparent, they can be considered of sufficient racial purity to adopt the Berto name. It’s the least we can do to stop whites from stealing San Diego-style Mexican food the way they stole rock ’n roll. Chipotle was bad enough.”
“The recent death of Dolores Robledo, who founded San Diego’s legendary Roberto’s Taco Shop chain with her husband Roberto in the ‘60s, was a somber moment for San Diego’s Mexican food community, and for the city that loves that food as well,” says Gordito Ranchero, head of Governor Newsom’s Cultural Appropriation Commission. “Somber because we lost a piece of living history, but also because it serves to remind us of the very real problem of Bertofication. It was one thing when various family members began to break away from the Roberto’s chain because of differences over how to run the business. But these days, it seems like anybody and everybody can slap a ‘berto’ on their name and open up a taco shop. Even if they’re not descended from Dolores and Roberto. Worse, even if they’re not descended from Mexicans. What we’re proposing is a simple ancestry check. As long as they have at least one Hispanic grandparent, they can be considered of sufficient racial purity to adopt the Berto name. It’s the least we can do to stop whites from stealing San Diego-style Mexican food the way they stole rock ’n roll. Chipotle was bad enough.”