Here's something you might be interested in.
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed
Big Screen — Movie commentary
Blurt — Music's inside track
Booze News — San Diego spirits
Classical Music — Immortal beauty
Classifieds — Free and easy
Cover Stories — Front-page features
Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes
Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts
Feast! — Food & drink reviews
Feature Stories — Local news & stories
Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore
From the Archives — Spotlight on the past
Golden Dreams — Talk of the town
The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it
Letters — Our inbox
Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites
Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans
Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists
Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news
News Ticker — News & politics
Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated
Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna
Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated
Poetry — The old and the new
Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers
Reading — The hunt for intellectuals
Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails
San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds
SD on the QT — Almost factual news
Sheep and Goats — Places of worship
Special Issues — The best of
Street Style — San Diego streets have style
Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves
Theater — On stage in San Diego this week
Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative
Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work
Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego
Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads
Your Week — Daily event picks
The home style Ukrainian of Village House Kalina
Enjoy babyshka’s recipes, just don’t order mineral water
A chunky sauce over Ukrainian-style stuffed cabbage
Several months back, I wrote enthusiastically about a plate of stuffed cabbage made by a local market vendor and caterer. One reader responded by recommending the same dish, made by La Mesa restaurant, The Village House Kalina. Which is why I recently found myself pulling into the parking lot of a 7-11 just off Fletcher Parkway.
The Village House Kalina sits next door to the convenience store, advertising Ukrainian and Russian cuisine. Little from the outside suggests the place would be homey, but that’s what you find when you walk inside. Eastern European folk instruments and kitchen utensils hang around the dining room, and there are window frames on one wall, panes painted to create the illusion there’s a quaint village on the other side, rather than a slurpee machine.
Borscht and bread service, just like back in the U.S.S.R.
There’s a lot more than stuffed cabbage to be found here. A well-rounded menu features many dishes, including recipes handed down or inspired by the owner’s babyshka (grandmother). There’s beef stroganoff, of course, and chicken and vegetarian versions. On weekends, the restaurant offers several types of shashlik, the Russian take on shish kabobs.
Decorated like a house in an Eastern European village
And, any day of the week, you can count on borscht, either vegetarian or beef. I don’t generally adore beets, but the beet-based soup, swimming with vegetables and cubed beef, and topped by a dollop of sour cream, goes down easy. One try, the broth was a little thinner than I’d like, but that aligns with my impression of Soviet-era borscht anyhow.
When it comes to Armenian sparkling mineral water, don’t bother.
As promised, the stuffed cabbage was a highlight. In this Ukrainian version, the tomato sauce poured over the top is chunky with additional cabbage and other finely chopped vegetables. There’s a pleasing sourness to the cabbage, and the combined brightness of the vegetables lifts up the savory beef within.
In terms of direct comparison, I still prefer Taste of Poland by a nose. But The Village House Kalina is open every day, dishing up family-style cooking. If it’s a little inconsistent, that’s only part of its Eastern rustic charm.
However, there’s a distinctly less charming aspect I feel I must point out. When I ordered my customary sparkling mineral water, I was initially delighted when an unfamiliar bottle appeared at my table. I’ve tried many an Italian mineral water, plus French, German, and Mexican, and the subtle differences have been interesting to enjoy.
But this bottle of Sevan, with a label reading, “made in Armenia,” makes a case that going for Eastern European authenticity has its failings. Salty, earthy, and not all that clean tasting, I’m not sure this beverage is babyshka approved.
Here's something you might be interested in.
The home style Ukrainian of Village House Kalina
Enjoy babyshka’s recipes, just don’t order mineral water
The home style Ukrainian of Village House Kalina
Enjoy babyshka’s recipes, just don’t order mineral water
A chunky sauce over Ukrainian-style stuffed cabbage
Several months back, I wrote enthusiastically about a plate of stuffed cabbage made by a local market vendor and caterer. One reader responded by recommending the same dish, made by La Mesa restaurant, The Village House Kalina. Which is why I recently found myself pulling into the parking lot of a 7-11 just off Fletcher Parkway.
The Village House Kalina sits next door to the convenience store, advertising Ukrainian and Russian cuisine. Little from the outside suggests the place would be homey, but that’s what you find when you walk inside. Eastern European folk instruments and kitchen utensils hang around the dining room, and there are window frames on one wall, panes painted to create the illusion there’s a quaint village on the other side, rather than a slurpee machine.
Borscht and bread service, just like back in the U.S.S.R.
There’s a lot more than stuffed cabbage to be found here. A well-rounded menu features many dishes, including recipes handed down or inspired by the owner’s babyshka (grandmother). There’s beef stroganoff, of course, and chicken and vegetarian versions. On weekends, the restaurant offers several types of shashlik, the Russian take on shish kabobs.
Decorated like a house in an Eastern European village
And, any day of the week, you can count on borscht, either vegetarian or beef. I don’t generally adore beets, but the beet-based soup, swimming with vegetables and cubed beef, and topped by a dollop of sour cream, goes down easy. One try, the broth was a little thinner than I’d like, but that aligns with my impression of Soviet-era borscht anyhow.
When it comes to Armenian sparkling mineral water, don’t bother.
As promised, the stuffed cabbage was a highlight. In this Ukrainian version, the tomato sauce poured over the top is chunky with additional cabbage and other finely chopped vegetables. There’s a pleasing sourness to the cabbage, and the combined brightness of the vegetables lifts up the savory beef within.
In terms of direct comparison, I still prefer Taste of Poland by a nose. But The Village House Kalina is open every day, dishing up family-style cooking. If it’s a little inconsistent, that’s only part of its Eastern rustic charm.
However, there’s a distinctly less charming aspect I feel I must point out. When I ordered my customary sparkling mineral water, I was initially delighted when an unfamiliar bottle appeared at my table. I’ve tried many an Italian mineral water, plus French, German, and Mexican, and the subtle differences have been interesting to enjoy.
But this bottle of Sevan, with a label reading, “made in Armenia,” makes a case that going for Eastern European authenticity has its failings. Salty, earthy, and not all that clean tasting, I’m not sure this beverage is babyshka approved.
Commentsadamschule85
This comment was removed by the site staff for violation of the usage agreement.
Nov. 27, 2019