Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Lima Restaurant has heart

New Gaslamp sit-down remains authentic to the Peru’s capital city

Anticuchos de Corazon: grilled beef heart skewers
Anticuchos de Corazon: grilled beef heart skewers

At first glance, the name Lima Restaurant struck me as generic. But in between serving tables the married owners of the new Gaslamp eatery got to telling us about how they want it to remain authentic to the experience of dining in their home city of Lima, Peru. They describe the soy sauce-based 24-hour marinade of their wok-fried lomo saltado, evidencing the turn of the 20th century Japanese diaspora to Peru, and its capital city in particular. How Lima restaurants used to serve potatoes mixed in with the sirloin steak, aji peppers, and onions of the dish, but newer generations of Limans prefer their French fries on the side, along with rice.

Sponsored
Sponsored
Place

Lima Restaurant

409 F St, San Diego

They won’t speak for Cusco, Arequipa, or other Peruvian cities. It’s just how a Lima restaurant would do it. Down to the array of side dishes featuring choclo, the Peruvian corn known for its huge, chewy kernels.

Along with the $15 lomo saltado they recommended the $15 ceviche, another Peruvian mainstay. Delicately denaturated in lime juice and chilis, the sole in Lima’s ceviche tastes more like sole than it does lime or peppers. We tried it against a mild to hot assortment of unique Peruvian salsas, and looked on course to follow the usual Peruvian restaurant script (there’s always rotisserie chicken after all). But then an arched eyebrow, and a good question. We looked at each other. How adventurous did we feel?

Sole ceviche with sweet potatoes and the huge corn kernels of choclo

They were serving an anticuchos special this day, that being the Peruvian term for meat skewers. In this case, anticuchos de corazon. What we might call grilled beef heart.

Images flashed through my mind of a whole, arterial organ impaled on a wooden steak, but of course the plate we were served proved less terrifying. There was nothing in the visual that suggested organ meat, just a couple of narrow filets threaded by a skewer, redolent of cumin and peppery spice.

Lomo soltado, served with rice and fries

The flavor only slightly gave it away, with a bit of gaminess and tang. The texture was distinctive, firm yet not chewy, with low fat but tender. So far as organ meats go, this $8 beef heart is the least scary I’ve tried. Not that I won’t claim bragging rights, once my vegan friends are out of listening range.

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Too $hort & DJ Symphony, Peppermint Beach Club, Holidays at the Zoo

Events December 19-December 21, 2024
Next Article

East San Diego County has only one bike lane

So you can get out of town – from Santee to Tierrasanta
Anticuchos de Corazon: grilled beef heart skewers
Anticuchos de Corazon: grilled beef heart skewers

At first glance, the name Lima Restaurant struck me as generic. But in between serving tables the married owners of the new Gaslamp eatery got to telling us about how they want it to remain authentic to the experience of dining in their home city of Lima, Peru. They describe the soy sauce-based 24-hour marinade of their wok-fried lomo saltado, evidencing the turn of the 20th century Japanese diaspora to Peru, and its capital city in particular. How Lima restaurants used to serve potatoes mixed in with the sirloin steak, aji peppers, and onions of the dish, but newer generations of Limans prefer their French fries on the side, along with rice.

Sponsored
Sponsored
Place

Lima Restaurant

409 F St, San Diego

They won’t speak for Cusco, Arequipa, or other Peruvian cities. It’s just how a Lima restaurant would do it. Down to the array of side dishes featuring choclo, the Peruvian corn known for its huge, chewy kernels.

Along with the $15 lomo saltado they recommended the $15 ceviche, another Peruvian mainstay. Delicately denaturated in lime juice and chilis, the sole in Lima’s ceviche tastes more like sole than it does lime or peppers. We tried it against a mild to hot assortment of unique Peruvian salsas, and looked on course to follow the usual Peruvian restaurant script (there’s always rotisserie chicken after all). But then an arched eyebrow, and a good question. We looked at each other. How adventurous did we feel?

Sole ceviche with sweet potatoes and the huge corn kernels of choclo

They were serving an anticuchos special this day, that being the Peruvian term for meat skewers. In this case, anticuchos de corazon. What we might call grilled beef heart.

Images flashed through my mind of a whole, arterial organ impaled on a wooden steak, but of course the plate we were served proved less terrifying. There was nothing in the visual that suggested organ meat, just a couple of narrow filets threaded by a skewer, redolent of cumin and peppery spice.

Lomo soltado, served with rice and fries

The flavor only slightly gave it away, with a bit of gaminess and tang. The texture was distinctive, firm yet not chewy, with low fat but tender. So far as organ meats go, this $8 beef heart is the least scary I’ve tried. Not that I won’t claim bragging rights, once my vegan friends are out of listening range.

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Aaron Stewart trades Christmas wonders for his first new music in 15 years

“Just because the job part was done, didn’t mean the passion had to die”
Next Article

Gonzo Report: Hockey Dad brings UCSD vets and Australians to the Quartyard

Bending the stage barriers in East Village
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader