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In those days, we didn’t have a leash
It’s a great sport for people who are older
Inge Morton: "I’ve been surfing here for 25 years, but I started in the 60’s in Brazil."
- Name: Inge Morton
- Age: 80
- From: Coronado
- Location: Tourmaline Surf Park
Inge Morton was walking to the showers with board on her head when we stopped to chat. “I’ve been surfing here for 25 years, but I started in the 60’s in Brazil. I’m from Rio.”
Morton isn’t looking to stop surfing, despite her age difference with other surfers. “I definitely think it’s a great sport for people who are older. It makes me happy for the rest of the day.”
“I try to time myself for only one hour, but of course sometimes I stay longer and then I feel it the rest of the day,” Morton laughs. “And I don’t go after every wave, I go when everyone else has gone. I’m not in a hurry, there’s always the next wave.”
Morton’s biggest wipeout happened in Brazil. “One time, when I was beginning in the 60s, my friend said, ‘Today’s not a good day to go out,’ but I was young and reckless and I said, ‘Oh, of course it is,’ and I went out. A huge set came. In those days we didn’t have a leash. I left the board and the waves came one after the other.”
“I had a hard time coming up because of the amount of foam and I thought, ‘Oh my gosh, all I need to do is die here, in Ipanema, where I was born and raised,’ but then I was able to get up… That episode made me respect the ocean. When it’s big, I don’t go in the water— you have to know your limit.”
Here's something you might be interested in.
In those days, we didn’t have a leash
It’s a great sport for people who are older
In those days, we didn’t have a leash
It’s a great sport for people who are older
Inge Morton: "I’ve been surfing here for 25 years, but I started in the 60’s in Brazil."
- Name: Inge Morton
- Age: 80
- From: Coronado
- Location: Tourmaline Surf Park
Inge Morton was walking to the showers with board on her head when we stopped to chat. “I’ve been surfing here for 25 years, but I started in the 60’s in Brazil. I’m from Rio.”
Morton isn’t looking to stop surfing, despite her age difference with other surfers. “I definitely think it’s a great sport for people who are older. It makes me happy for the rest of the day.”
“I try to time myself for only one hour, but of course sometimes I stay longer and then I feel it the rest of the day,” Morton laughs. “And I don’t go after every wave, I go when everyone else has gone. I’m not in a hurry, there’s always the next wave.”
Morton’s biggest wipeout happened in Brazil. “One time, when I was beginning in the 60s, my friend said, ‘Today’s not a good day to go out,’ but I was young and reckless and I said, ‘Oh, of course it is,’ and I went out. A huge set came. In those days we didn’t have a leash. I left the board and the waves came one after the other.”
“I had a hard time coming up because of the amount of foam and I thought, ‘Oh my gosh, all I need to do is die here, in Ipanema, where I was born and raised,’ but then I was able to get up… That episode made me respect the ocean. When it’s big, I don’t go in the water— you have to know your limit.”
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