Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

It's not about the bun

Thai inspired burgers put sticky rice in your hands

Thai Burger satay.  I was happy enough to embrace the "most innovative" burger.
Thai Burger satay. I was happy enough to embrace the "most innovative" burger.

We'd gone to Clairemont Mesa looking for Vietnamese sandwiches, and wound up finding Thai burgers.

Place

Thai Burger Company

3520 Ashford Street, San Diego

We stopped first at K Sandwiches, which has reopened two years after being destroyed by fire. I'm not sure whether class had just let out at nearby Mesa College, or whether people have been seriously jonesing for that bánh mì, but either way we found every seat taken, and a line out the door.

Sponsored
Sponsored
Fried egg yolk adds a little color to the ka prao burger.

So we started poking around for a plan B, and found Thai Burger Company only a couple blocks away. It's a tiny spot, merely a counter and small patio — a permanent location built up from a food truck and market stand. Like many a food truck business, this one operates with a street food twist: its ground meat burgers are inspired by classic Thai dishes, and instead of a bun, the patties are served between two slabs of sticky rice.

A Reader festival favorite

As a banner strung up in front of the restaurant points out, these Thai inspired burgers were a hit at the Reader Burgers & Beer fest. Seeing as I'd missed out on that one, I was happy enough to embrace the "most innovative" burger now.

At $7 apiece, most of these burger choices feature pork: either with Thai BBQ sauce, panang curry, or a fairly spicy ka prao — based on a dish made with basil and chili peppers, which recommends adding a fried egg for an extra buck. I tried my friend's order of the latter, and for myself checked out the chicken satay burger, which sounded delicious in a mildly spicy coconut curry and peanut sauce.

The rice is sticky enough to hold itself together, and for the most part it did. However, these burgers are served wrapped in a foil paper, like old fast food burgers, and some of the rice wants to stick to the wrapper, which threatens the whole "burger bun" cohesion. A bigger problem I had with mine was that the sauces flavoring my chicken burger seeped into the rice, both threatening its integrity and making it a sloppy mess to eat.

To be fair, some of my favorite burgers are sloppy messes, so I can cope. But then, the burger experience can't be adequately replicated with a fork and knife. Here, each bite of Thai burger tasted the same as it would out of a rice bowl or plate. The flavors were good, but I'd enjoy them just as well served in a bowl with some veggies, so I don't get the point in making a hand held version, without even lettuce for texture. For szeven dollars, sticky rice packed around a few ounces of grilled ground meat doesn't seem like a value added proposition. Especially when people are lining up down the block for $4 bánh mì topped with pickles and served on fresh-from-the-oven baguettes.

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Everything You’ve Ever Wanted To Know About doTERRA

Thai Burger satay.  I was happy enough to embrace the "most innovative" burger.
Thai Burger satay. I was happy enough to embrace the "most innovative" burger.

We'd gone to Clairemont Mesa looking for Vietnamese sandwiches, and wound up finding Thai burgers.

Place

Thai Burger Company

3520 Ashford Street, San Diego

We stopped first at K Sandwiches, which has reopened two years after being destroyed by fire. I'm not sure whether class had just let out at nearby Mesa College, or whether people have been seriously jonesing for that bánh mì, but either way we found every seat taken, and a line out the door.

Sponsored
Sponsored
Fried egg yolk adds a little color to the ka prao burger.

So we started poking around for a plan B, and found Thai Burger Company only a couple blocks away. It's a tiny spot, merely a counter and small patio — a permanent location built up from a food truck and market stand. Like many a food truck business, this one operates with a street food twist: its ground meat burgers are inspired by classic Thai dishes, and instead of a bun, the patties are served between two slabs of sticky rice.

A Reader festival favorite

As a banner strung up in front of the restaurant points out, these Thai inspired burgers were a hit at the Reader Burgers & Beer fest. Seeing as I'd missed out on that one, I was happy enough to embrace the "most innovative" burger now.

At $7 apiece, most of these burger choices feature pork: either with Thai BBQ sauce, panang curry, or a fairly spicy ka prao — based on a dish made with basil and chili peppers, which recommends adding a fried egg for an extra buck. I tried my friend's order of the latter, and for myself checked out the chicken satay burger, which sounded delicious in a mildly spicy coconut curry and peanut sauce.

The rice is sticky enough to hold itself together, and for the most part it did. However, these burgers are served wrapped in a foil paper, like old fast food burgers, and some of the rice wants to stick to the wrapper, which threatens the whole "burger bun" cohesion. A bigger problem I had with mine was that the sauces flavoring my chicken burger seeped into the rice, both threatening its integrity and making it a sloppy mess to eat.

To be fair, some of my favorite burgers are sloppy messes, so I can cope. But then, the burger experience can't be adequately replicated with a fork and knife. Here, each bite of Thai burger tasted the same as it would out of a rice bowl or plate. The flavors were good, but I'd enjoy them just as well served in a bowl with some veggies, so I don't get the point in making a hand held version, without even lettuce for texture. For szeven dollars, sticky rice packed around a few ounces of grilled ground meat doesn't seem like a value added proposition. Especially when people are lining up down the block for $4 bánh mì topped with pickles and served on fresh-from-the-oven baguettes.

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Big swordfish, big marlin, and big money

Trout opener at Santee Lakes
Next Article

Temperature inversions bring smoggy weather, "ankle biters" still biting

Near-new moon will lead to a dark Halloween
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader