Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Pizza crust doesn't get any thinner

And this pie named after a movie villain is killer

The Hannibal Lecter pizza would go well with some fava beans and a nice chianti.
The Hannibal Lecter pizza would go well with some fava beans and a nice chianti.

Catching up for a quick lunch with a friend, I found myself back at the Little Italy Food Hall, scanning its several restaurant counters for something we can agree on. As often happens in such a situation, we settled on pizza.

Place

Ambrogio15 Little Italy

550 W Date Street, San Diego

That would be Ambrogio15, a Pacific Beach eatery that expanded over here with its Milan-inspired, organic flour pizzas, baked in a red dome pizza oven. Whereas American-style pizza spots would struggle to produce a “quick lunch,” Ambrogio’s pies take little time to cook, because their crusts are exceedingly thin.

Sponsored
Sponsored

The term thin crust doesn’t do them justice. These things have all the thickness of a water cracker. The closest I’ve seen to a pizza crust this thin was a Oaxacan tlayuda, sometimes called a Mexican pizza, where cheese is melted over a baked-to-crispness flour tortilla. Between a tortilla and Ambrogio pizza crust, it would take a high precision caliper to figure out which is thinner.

Which makes it all the more perplexing Ambrogio had trouble cutting the pies into slices. The first attempt cut through the cheese and toppings, but only scored the crust itself. It wasn’t sliced-through enough to tear off a slice without mangling the crust and toppings, so after attempting to saw through a slice with a plastic butter knife provided by the food counter, I brought the whole pizza back for another run with the pizza slicer.

The problem was, Ambrogio’s slicing and serving their pies on metal mesh trays, so their cutter wheels can’t make consistent contact with a hard surface beneath the charred at the edges crust.

A minor logistical issue. Once attained, the slices of pizza were tasty, A Margherita starts at $13, with upgrade options including whole wheat or gluten free crust, various oils, olives, and Italian cured meats.

For a few dollars more you can get the really good stuff: the sweetness of genuine San Marzano tomato sauce or a 20-month-aged prosciutto. We went for both of these, served standard on the Hannibal Lecter pizza, which features a two-year-aged parmesan, spicy salami, grilled red pepper, porchetta, and Italian sausage.

When you see how the prosciutto is splayed out across the top of the pie after it comes out of the oven, the cheeky Hannibal reference becomes clear. The pink meat shavings tossed over the top of the pizza vaguely resemble the flaps of skin worn by the cannibal killer of Silence of the Lambs.

Despite the comparison, the sight of it won’t ruin your appetite: the pizza tastes too good for that. In fact, you might want to order a second. These $13-18 pies are designed for quality over quantity. One pie could almost satiate two light eaters. My friend and I are not light eaters and made quick work of two.

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

In-n-Out alters iconic symbol to reflect “modern-day California”

Keep Palm and Carry On?
Next Article

Gonzo Report: Eating dinner while little kids mock-mosh at Golden Island

“The tot absorbs the punk rock shot with the skill of experience”
The Hannibal Lecter pizza would go well with some fava beans and a nice chianti.
The Hannibal Lecter pizza would go well with some fava beans and a nice chianti.

Catching up for a quick lunch with a friend, I found myself back at the Little Italy Food Hall, scanning its several restaurant counters for something we can agree on. As often happens in such a situation, we settled on pizza.

Place

Ambrogio15 Little Italy

550 W Date Street, San Diego

That would be Ambrogio15, a Pacific Beach eatery that expanded over here with its Milan-inspired, organic flour pizzas, baked in a red dome pizza oven. Whereas American-style pizza spots would struggle to produce a “quick lunch,” Ambrogio’s pies take little time to cook, because their crusts are exceedingly thin.

Sponsored
Sponsored

The term thin crust doesn’t do them justice. These things have all the thickness of a water cracker. The closest I’ve seen to a pizza crust this thin was a Oaxacan tlayuda, sometimes called a Mexican pizza, where cheese is melted over a baked-to-crispness flour tortilla. Between a tortilla and Ambrogio pizza crust, it would take a high precision caliper to figure out which is thinner.

Which makes it all the more perplexing Ambrogio had trouble cutting the pies into slices. The first attempt cut through the cheese and toppings, but only scored the crust itself. It wasn’t sliced-through enough to tear off a slice without mangling the crust and toppings, so after attempting to saw through a slice with a plastic butter knife provided by the food counter, I brought the whole pizza back for another run with the pizza slicer.

The problem was, Ambrogio’s slicing and serving their pies on metal mesh trays, so their cutter wheels can’t make consistent contact with a hard surface beneath the charred at the edges crust.

A minor logistical issue. Once attained, the slices of pizza were tasty, A Margherita starts at $13, with upgrade options including whole wheat or gluten free crust, various oils, olives, and Italian cured meats.

For a few dollars more you can get the really good stuff: the sweetness of genuine San Marzano tomato sauce or a 20-month-aged prosciutto. We went for both of these, served standard on the Hannibal Lecter pizza, which features a two-year-aged parmesan, spicy salami, grilled red pepper, porchetta, and Italian sausage.

When you see how the prosciutto is splayed out across the top of the pie after it comes out of the oven, the cheeky Hannibal reference becomes clear. The pink meat shavings tossed over the top of the pizza vaguely resemble the flaps of skin worn by the cannibal killer of Silence of the Lambs.

Despite the comparison, the sight of it won’t ruin your appetite: the pizza tastes too good for that. In fact, you might want to order a second. These $13-18 pies are designed for quality over quantity. One pie could almost satiate two light eaters. My friend and I are not light eaters and made quick work of two.

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Trophy truck crushes four at Baja 1000

"Two other racers on quads died too,"
Next Article

Trump names local supporter new Border Czar

Another Brick (Suit) in the Wall
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader