Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Arguably the classiest joint in Tijuana

No, the Caesar salad wasn’t named after Julius

The duck tortellini is served with sautéed spinach and parmesan in a generous portion of port-wine sauce
The duck tortellini is served with sautéed spinach and parmesan in a generous portion of port-wine sauce

The year is 1924. Bootleggers and feds are playing cat-and-mouse and legends such as Louis Armstrong are playing jazz. Italian restaurateur Caesar Cardini, who had settled briefly in San Diego five years earlier, evades the pressure of Prohibition by going south of the border where Americans are flocking to imbibe in the liberty of libations.

This postcard is one of the earliest known pictures of Caesar’s, taken in the early 1920s

One busy weekend in July, Cardini is short on supplies and uses what’s on hand to make a refreshing appetizer for his patrons. Whole leaves of romaine are tossed in oil with fresh garlic, lime juice, coddled egg, salt, pepper, and, for the signature anchovy flavor, Worcestershire sauce. And the Caesar salad is born.

Today you can get that same Caesar’s salad in the heart of Tijuana, just a few blocks south of the arch on Revolución. It costs 85 pesos (around $5), but for an extra $2.50 American an ensaladero (Spanish for “dude who makes salads”) will prepare a serving for two, tableside.

Sponsored
Sponsored
For an extra couple bucks, an ensaladero prepares an original Caesar salad at your table

I’ve been coming to Caesar’s for years, and it’s the one spot I never fail to bring friends visiting from the States. Since its remodel in 2010, stepping in from the streets bustling with honking cabs, flashing red-and-blues, and cheap pharmaceuticals is like stepping into a distant era. The staff wears white collars and black ties, and everything from an entrée to a salad fork is served on a tray. Sconce and pendant fixtures illuminate walls lined with framed black-and-whites of black Model Ts lining an unpaved Revolución, elegant galas, and even Caesar Cardini himself; checkered tile and white linen accent the mahogany bar and chairs; and the jazz playing low is a nice touch.

This being my first time coming to Caesar’s alone, I’m surprised and disappointed that the dining area is reserved for two or more. The only options flying solo are the bar or the patio. Preferring a table I opt for outside, but the congested and noisy street just opposite the glass partition kind of kills the vibe.

Ate con queso is a traditional dessert of guava paste, quince cheese, and manchago cheese served with fig compote, fresh fruit, and port-wine honey

The staff makes the joint, though. One of the three waiters working my table takes the drink order and returns with a bottle of Sol, $2.50, and a healthy pour of Centenario tequila over rocks, $4.50, before another has finished setting the table. My only gripe about the staff is they speak English even if you’re habla-ing the Español. But that’s just me; I like the practice.

The ensaladero gets cracking as I try to settle on what I’ll be having. I don’t let the selection of more than 20 appetizers trip me up — I always go for the escargot, $6. But with more than 30 main dishes to choose from, anxiety has a tendency to set in. Tonight duck tortellini, $9, takes the win.

The staff is mindful to avoid rushing the experience. The escargot comes just as I’m finishing the salad, and the tortellini doesn’t arrive until the empty escargot shells have been cleared. The basket of fresh sliced bread is another perk, considering the kitchen’s generosity with dressings, sauces, and broth. There is no shame in admitting that the extra carbs consumed while clearing the zesty salad dressing, the escargot’s basil garlic broth, and the rich port-wine pasta sauce have earned me an extra mile on tomorrow’s run.

In that case, there’s no shame in dessert, either. After a moment of rumination with the remaining tequila I finish the evening with an espresso, $2, and a traditional ate con queso, $4.50. Four courses of fine dining in arguably the classiest joint in Tijuana, and the bill is under 40 bucks.

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Southern California Asks: 'What Is Vinivia?' Meet the New Creator-First Livestreaming App

The duck tortellini is served with sautéed spinach and parmesan in a generous portion of port-wine sauce
The duck tortellini is served with sautéed spinach and parmesan in a generous portion of port-wine sauce

The year is 1924. Bootleggers and feds are playing cat-and-mouse and legends such as Louis Armstrong are playing jazz. Italian restaurateur Caesar Cardini, who had settled briefly in San Diego five years earlier, evades the pressure of Prohibition by going south of the border where Americans are flocking to imbibe in the liberty of libations.

This postcard is one of the earliest known pictures of Caesar’s, taken in the early 1920s

One busy weekend in July, Cardini is short on supplies and uses what’s on hand to make a refreshing appetizer for his patrons. Whole leaves of romaine are tossed in oil with fresh garlic, lime juice, coddled egg, salt, pepper, and, for the signature anchovy flavor, Worcestershire sauce. And the Caesar salad is born.

Today you can get that same Caesar’s salad in the heart of Tijuana, just a few blocks south of the arch on Revolución. It costs 85 pesos (around $5), but for an extra $2.50 American an ensaladero (Spanish for “dude who makes salads”) will prepare a serving for two, tableside.

Sponsored
Sponsored
For an extra couple bucks, an ensaladero prepares an original Caesar salad at your table

I’ve been coming to Caesar’s for years, and it’s the one spot I never fail to bring friends visiting from the States. Since its remodel in 2010, stepping in from the streets bustling with honking cabs, flashing red-and-blues, and cheap pharmaceuticals is like stepping into a distant era. The staff wears white collars and black ties, and everything from an entrée to a salad fork is served on a tray. Sconce and pendant fixtures illuminate walls lined with framed black-and-whites of black Model Ts lining an unpaved Revolución, elegant galas, and even Caesar Cardini himself; checkered tile and white linen accent the mahogany bar and chairs; and the jazz playing low is a nice touch.

This being my first time coming to Caesar’s alone, I’m surprised and disappointed that the dining area is reserved for two or more. The only options flying solo are the bar or the patio. Preferring a table I opt for outside, but the congested and noisy street just opposite the glass partition kind of kills the vibe.

Ate con queso is a traditional dessert of guava paste, quince cheese, and manchago cheese served with fig compote, fresh fruit, and port-wine honey

The staff makes the joint, though. One of the three waiters working my table takes the drink order and returns with a bottle of Sol, $2.50, and a healthy pour of Centenario tequila over rocks, $4.50, before another has finished setting the table. My only gripe about the staff is they speak English even if you’re habla-ing the Español. But that’s just me; I like the practice.

The ensaladero gets cracking as I try to settle on what I’ll be having. I don’t let the selection of more than 20 appetizers trip me up — I always go for the escargot, $6. But with more than 30 main dishes to choose from, anxiety has a tendency to set in. Tonight duck tortellini, $9, takes the win.

The staff is mindful to avoid rushing the experience. The escargot comes just as I’m finishing the salad, and the tortellini doesn’t arrive until the empty escargot shells have been cleared. The basket of fresh sliced bread is another perk, considering the kitchen’s generosity with dressings, sauces, and broth. There is no shame in admitting that the extra carbs consumed while clearing the zesty salad dressing, the escargot’s basil garlic broth, and the rich port-wine pasta sauce have earned me an extra mile on tomorrow’s run.

In that case, there’s no shame in dessert, either. After a moment of rumination with the remaining tequila I finish the evening with an espresso, $2, and a traditional ate con queso, $4.50. Four courses of fine dining in arguably the classiest joint in Tijuana, and the bill is under 40 bucks.

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Classical Classical at The San Diego Symphony Orchestra

A concert I didn't know I needed
Next Article

Birding & Brews: Breakfast Edition, ZZ Ward, Doggie Street Festival & Pet Adopt-A-Thon

Events November 21-November 23, 2024
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader