Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Palate and wallet favor cod over lobster

Taste of three dollars in a tale of two gastrotrucks

Pescado and asado: two tacos, three bucks total
Pescado and asado: two tacos, three bucks total
Place

Quartyard

1301 Market Street, San Diego

Arturo's food truck

I’m loping downhill from Golden Hill, heading for the City College trolley stop at Park and Broadway. Then, just before the blue police HQ and the Salvation Army, I spot this lone wagon, a mariscos food truck, parked in the gravel behind hurricane fencing.

Name seems to be “Su Gusto Es…,” like “Your taste is…”

This is five on a Friday afternoon. Was figuring on hitting a food truck at the Quartyard, the East Village block at Park and Market. Sure to find a bite there. On the other hand, a bird in hand… Can’t resist coming through a gap in the fence and crunching round to where this food truck is parked.

I look up at the menu on the wall. Mainly what I’m noticing: “Tacos de pescado, $1.50.” “Carne asada taco, $1.50.” All right!

This is when the guy opens the door and comes down. “Guess I’ll have one of each,” I say. Big investment of three buckeroos.

“Hey, Arturo!”

Arturo

It’s this lady who has appeared around the truck. “More of the same, Arturo,” she says.

Sponsored
Sponsored

And Arturo writes down the same order I gave. How can you be surprised, with such a deal?

“This truck’s been open in this spot for three weeks,” she says. “And already they’re popular — with the police, the workers around here, my class…”

Her name’s Mayflower. She lectures on cosmetology at City College, which kinda tumbles down the hill right across Broadway. “I come a couple of times a day, because everything Arturo has is fresh and healthy,” she says. “And besides, there’s not a lot of choices around here between East Village and Golden Hill. You should see this at lunchtime. It’s standing room only.”

We laugh because, well, we’re standing. Then Mayflower gets her order and runs.

“It’s cod,” says Arturo as he hands me mine, two tacos with twin corn tortillas each and tomato chunks, cilantro, cabbage shreds covering them. Also a big green log of guac. “The salsas are over there.”

I get a can of Sunkist orange soda ($1) and hand him $4. “Which salsas?” I ask.

He grabs a bottle of “Salsa Huichol” with “spices and hot peppers from the Nayar mountains.”

“And for the fish,” he says, and hands me a bottle of “Mexico Lindo, salsa marisquera 7 Mares.”

I head for the two temporary long tables he has set up on a piece of ground covered in ancient mosaic flooring of a demolished factory. Arturo says he has plans.

Mike, the lobster-truck owner

“We’re new here, but we hope to set up a charcoal burner at night so we can have an olla of beans and onions and leeks and peppers. And on Saturdays we have this campechano, all fish mixed inside a coconut with coconut flesh, $16. Very filling.”

Meanwhile I shake the hot sauces on my fish taco even though it already has a tartar sauce splotted over it, and the carne asada taco has, like, Thousand Island sauce. The carne asada is strong-tasting and burning with those peppers from the Nayar mountains, but it’s the fish taco that takes the prize. Crisp battered, with plenty of pico de gallo and fixin’s. I can’t think of a better way to spend $1.50.

Sabin, one of the two "Cousins" owners

Cut to an hour later. I’m in the Quartyard compound looking up at this awesome black machine. A food truck on steroids. Got a strip along the top showing the logos of every media outlet they’ve been featured on. Katie, QVC, MasterChef, Hallmark Channel, Queen Latifah, New York Post, the Food Network, CNBC, GMA, LA Weekly, Food and Wine, CNN, Fox, Shark Tank. On and on.

“This baby cost $167,000,” says Mike, looking at his truck. “But hey, we’re the #3 food truck on the West Coast, according to the Huff Post. You should see the kitchen inside.”

“Cousins Maine Lobster,” says the truck’s sign. Turns out Mike’s a franchisee. They sell everything from lobster tail to lobster rolls to lobster tacos.

“Guy, your Connecticut lobster roll is ready. Get it while it’s warm!” says this gal’s voice through a loudspeaker.

I check out the electronic menu. Not cheap. A Maine lobster roll (served chilled, with mayo) is $13.50. Three lobster tacos cost $12. Lobster tots are $12, too.

You certainly get plenty of meat

“But check it out,” says this casual young guy who’s socializing with others in front of the truck. “There’s no place like this, where you can get the best of Maine lobster for under $15. Trust me. I’m from Maine.”

This is Sabin Lomac. He and his cousin Jim Tselikis grew up in Maine. “We had this idea. Bring fresh, inexpensive Maine lobster to the rest of the country. Shark Tank picked us up. That helped launch us. Now we have 18 [franchise] food trucks around the country. Cousins Maine Lobster. In three years. It’s crazy.”

I check the funds department in my left pocket. Have to try. Can just do it. I order the lobster tacos (3 for $12), then nip down to the slope to the Quartyard bar, grab a Noble Ale Works stout ($6.75), and get back just in time for “Ed!”

Natch, as I pick up the first taco — flour tortilla — I’m already thinking about my other tacos, the other truck, and, yes, the other price. These also have cabbage, pico de gallo, cilantro lime sauce, and do look beautiful with the red-and-white flesh of lobster tail.

But, if I close my eyes, I can’t really tell the taste difference between these and Arturo’s $1.50 fish tacos.

So choice: lobster or cod? Two bucks or twelve?

Guess it just depends on what su gusto es.


The Place: Su Gusto Es... seafood truck, corner Broadway and 16th Street, downtown

Prices: Fish taco, $1.50; carne asada taco, $1.50; camarón al ajillo (garlic shrimp) taco, $4; octopus cocktail, $7.50 –$10.50; a dozen oysters, $10; shrimp soup “a la diablo,” $13; seafood campechano (Saturdays only), $16

Hours: 9:00 a.m.–7:00 p.m. Monday to Saturday; closed Sunday

Bus: 2

Nearest bus stop: Broadway at 15th Street

The Place: Cousins Maine Lobster food truck (at Quartyard, Market and Park, East Village around twice a month), 619-452-1375; CouisinsMaineLobste…

Prices: Maine lobster roll, $13.50; lobster quesadilla, $13; lobster tacos (3), $12; Maine lobster tail, $13; clam chowder $7.00 (cup), $9 (bowl); lobster tots, $12; Maine lobster ice cream, $5.50

Hours: vary

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

The Fellini of Clairemont High

When gang showers were standard for gym class
Next Article

The vicious cycle of Escondido's abandoned buildings

City staff blames owners for raising rents
Pescado and asado: two tacos, three bucks total
Pescado and asado: two tacos, three bucks total
Place

Quartyard

1301 Market Street, San Diego

Arturo's food truck

I’m loping downhill from Golden Hill, heading for the City College trolley stop at Park and Broadway. Then, just before the blue police HQ and the Salvation Army, I spot this lone wagon, a mariscos food truck, parked in the gravel behind hurricane fencing.

Name seems to be “Su Gusto Es…,” like “Your taste is…”

This is five on a Friday afternoon. Was figuring on hitting a food truck at the Quartyard, the East Village block at Park and Market. Sure to find a bite there. On the other hand, a bird in hand… Can’t resist coming through a gap in the fence and crunching round to where this food truck is parked.

I look up at the menu on the wall. Mainly what I’m noticing: “Tacos de pescado, $1.50.” “Carne asada taco, $1.50.” All right!

This is when the guy opens the door and comes down. “Guess I’ll have one of each,” I say. Big investment of three buckeroos.

“Hey, Arturo!”

Arturo

It’s this lady who has appeared around the truck. “More of the same, Arturo,” she says.

Sponsored
Sponsored

And Arturo writes down the same order I gave. How can you be surprised, with such a deal?

“This truck’s been open in this spot for three weeks,” she says. “And already they’re popular — with the police, the workers around here, my class…”

Her name’s Mayflower. She lectures on cosmetology at City College, which kinda tumbles down the hill right across Broadway. “I come a couple of times a day, because everything Arturo has is fresh and healthy,” she says. “And besides, there’s not a lot of choices around here between East Village and Golden Hill. You should see this at lunchtime. It’s standing room only.”

We laugh because, well, we’re standing. Then Mayflower gets her order and runs.

“It’s cod,” says Arturo as he hands me mine, two tacos with twin corn tortillas each and tomato chunks, cilantro, cabbage shreds covering them. Also a big green log of guac. “The salsas are over there.”

I get a can of Sunkist orange soda ($1) and hand him $4. “Which salsas?” I ask.

He grabs a bottle of “Salsa Huichol” with “spices and hot peppers from the Nayar mountains.”

“And for the fish,” he says, and hands me a bottle of “Mexico Lindo, salsa marisquera 7 Mares.”

I head for the two temporary long tables he has set up on a piece of ground covered in ancient mosaic flooring of a demolished factory. Arturo says he has plans.

Mike, the lobster-truck owner

“We’re new here, but we hope to set up a charcoal burner at night so we can have an olla of beans and onions and leeks and peppers. And on Saturdays we have this campechano, all fish mixed inside a coconut with coconut flesh, $16. Very filling.”

Meanwhile I shake the hot sauces on my fish taco even though it already has a tartar sauce splotted over it, and the carne asada taco has, like, Thousand Island sauce. The carne asada is strong-tasting and burning with those peppers from the Nayar mountains, but it’s the fish taco that takes the prize. Crisp battered, with plenty of pico de gallo and fixin’s. I can’t think of a better way to spend $1.50.

Sabin, one of the two "Cousins" owners

Cut to an hour later. I’m in the Quartyard compound looking up at this awesome black machine. A food truck on steroids. Got a strip along the top showing the logos of every media outlet they’ve been featured on. Katie, QVC, MasterChef, Hallmark Channel, Queen Latifah, New York Post, the Food Network, CNBC, GMA, LA Weekly, Food and Wine, CNN, Fox, Shark Tank. On and on.

“This baby cost $167,000,” says Mike, looking at his truck. “But hey, we’re the #3 food truck on the West Coast, according to the Huff Post. You should see the kitchen inside.”

“Cousins Maine Lobster,” says the truck’s sign. Turns out Mike’s a franchisee. They sell everything from lobster tail to lobster rolls to lobster tacos.

“Guy, your Connecticut lobster roll is ready. Get it while it’s warm!” says this gal’s voice through a loudspeaker.

I check out the electronic menu. Not cheap. A Maine lobster roll (served chilled, with mayo) is $13.50. Three lobster tacos cost $12. Lobster tots are $12, too.

You certainly get plenty of meat

“But check it out,” says this casual young guy who’s socializing with others in front of the truck. “There’s no place like this, where you can get the best of Maine lobster for under $15. Trust me. I’m from Maine.”

This is Sabin Lomac. He and his cousin Jim Tselikis grew up in Maine. “We had this idea. Bring fresh, inexpensive Maine lobster to the rest of the country. Shark Tank picked us up. That helped launch us. Now we have 18 [franchise] food trucks around the country. Cousins Maine Lobster. In three years. It’s crazy.”

I check the funds department in my left pocket. Have to try. Can just do it. I order the lobster tacos (3 for $12), then nip down to the slope to the Quartyard bar, grab a Noble Ale Works stout ($6.75), and get back just in time for “Ed!”

Natch, as I pick up the first taco — flour tortilla — I’m already thinking about my other tacos, the other truck, and, yes, the other price. These also have cabbage, pico de gallo, cilantro lime sauce, and do look beautiful with the red-and-white flesh of lobster tail.

But, if I close my eyes, I can’t really tell the taste difference between these and Arturo’s $1.50 fish tacos.

So choice: lobster or cod? Two bucks or twelve?

Guess it just depends on what su gusto es.


The Place: Su Gusto Es... seafood truck, corner Broadway and 16th Street, downtown

Prices: Fish taco, $1.50; carne asada taco, $1.50; camarón al ajillo (garlic shrimp) taco, $4; octopus cocktail, $7.50 –$10.50; a dozen oysters, $10; shrimp soup “a la diablo,” $13; seafood campechano (Saturdays only), $16

Hours: 9:00 a.m.–7:00 p.m. Monday to Saturday; closed Sunday

Bus: 2

Nearest bus stop: Broadway at 15th Street

The Place: Cousins Maine Lobster food truck (at Quartyard, Market and Park, East Village around twice a month), 619-452-1375; CouisinsMaineLobste…

Prices: Maine lobster roll, $13.50; lobster quesadilla, $13; lobster tacos (3), $12; Maine lobster tail, $13; clam chowder $7.00 (cup), $9 (bowl); lobster tots, $12; Maine lobster ice cream, $5.50

Hours: vary

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

WAV College Church reminds kids that time is short

College is a formational time for decisions about belief
Next Article

Gonzo Report: Three nights of Mission Bayfest bring bliss

“This is a top-notch production.”
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader