Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

An awkward ménage à trois

Sage lemonade, pasta, and panini at Aether

Cheese, ham, and bacon panini
Cheese, ham, and bacon panini

When I first met Oliver Castañeda a couple years ago, he was running a small coffee shop named El Gnomo (The Gnome) in downtown Tijuana in the alley known as Pasaje Gomez. When Pasaje Gomez went kaput, so did the coffee shop and most of the businesses that the Pasaje hosted.

Oliver did not resurface until a year later in a gallery called Praxis inside the popular art alley Pasaje Rodriguez. Oliver rented the corner space of the art gallery to serve coffee and pastries, but Praxis also went under, leaving Oliver with the whole locale. Being of stocky build, Oliver did not name his cafe The Gnome but went for a more classy name, Aether.

Aether’s small square space is minimalist. Everything is natural wood, black, grey, or white, with a couple of small tables and an office space in the back.

Sponsored
Sponsored
Salad, pasta, panini, and a sage lemonade for $5
Oliver prepping food

The menu is also minimal and mostly about caffeinated beverages. Food-wise, the menu has panini sandwiches and dessert croissants. The sandwiches go for $3.50 with three choices: the cheese, ham, and bacon with maple and rosemary, the marlin and cheese, and the portobello (vegan option). Add a salad and a cold pasta for $1 more or make the combo complete with a sage lemonade for $5.

With a kitchen similar to what you would find in a college dorm room, Oliver does a good job. I ordered the whole combo with the cheese, ham, and bacon panini. In a large bowl, the presentation looks great, but it’s not practical. The salad and pasta intermingle while the panini sits on top in an awkward ménage à trois.

The pasta had a kick of chili spice to it, so mixing it with the spinach and cherry tomatoes helped it cool down. The meat in the sandwich was overloaded with cheese, so the meat flavor was not as pronounced as I had hoped for. A chipotle sauce with other spices helped the flavor greatly.

I had the marlin panini on a previous visit, and it was better. The reason I keep going back, though, is for the sage lemonade. Every glass of lemonade is prepared slowly by hand by Oliver. The flavor is so rich and refreshing that if you drink it more than half-way and then dilute it with more water, it is still flavorful.

Cortado for dessert

Finally, to go on my merry way, I order a drink everyone else seemed to be getting: a cortado for $1. Similar to a macchiato, a cortado is an espresso shot cut with milk. As I rarely venture outside of black coffee, I regretted my choice. However, the heart shape on the foam again made for a pretty picture.

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

East San Diego County has only one bike lane

So you can get out of town – from Santee to Tierrasanta
Next Article

Bringing Order to the Christmas Chaos

There is a sense of grandeur in Messiah that period performance mavens miss.
Cheese, ham, and bacon panini
Cheese, ham, and bacon panini

When I first met Oliver Castañeda a couple years ago, he was running a small coffee shop named El Gnomo (The Gnome) in downtown Tijuana in the alley known as Pasaje Gomez. When Pasaje Gomez went kaput, so did the coffee shop and most of the businesses that the Pasaje hosted.

Oliver did not resurface until a year later in a gallery called Praxis inside the popular art alley Pasaje Rodriguez. Oliver rented the corner space of the art gallery to serve coffee and pastries, but Praxis also went under, leaving Oliver with the whole locale. Being of stocky build, Oliver did not name his cafe The Gnome but went for a more classy name, Aether.

Aether’s small square space is minimalist. Everything is natural wood, black, grey, or white, with a couple of small tables and an office space in the back.

Sponsored
Sponsored
Salad, pasta, panini, and a sage lemonade for $5
Oliver prepping food

The menu is also minimal and mostly about caffeinated beverages. Food-wise, the menu has panini sandwiches and dessert croissants. The sandwiches go for $3.50 with three choices: the cheese, ham, and bacon with maple and rosemary, the marlin and cheese, and the portobello (vegan option). Add a salad and a cold pasta for $1 more or make the combo complete with a sage lemonade for $5.

With a kitchen similar to what you would find in a college dorm room, Oliver does a good job. I ordered the whole combo with the cheese, ham, and bacon panini. In a large bowl, the presentation looks great, but it’s not practical. The salad and pasta intermingle while the panini sits on top in an awkward ménage à trois.

The pasta had a kick of chili spice to it, so mixing it with the spinach and cherry tomatoes helped it cool down. The meat in the sandwich was overloaded with cheese, so the meat flavor was not as pronounced as I had hoped for. A chipotle sauce with other spices helped the flavor greatly.

I had the marlin panini on a previous visit, and it was better. The reason I keep going back, though, is for the sage lemonade. Every glass of lemonade is prepared slowly by hand by Oliver. The flavor is so rich and refreshing that if you drink it more than half-way and then dilute it with more water, it is still flavorful.

Cortado for dessert

Finally, to go on my merry way, I order a drink everyone else seemed to be getting: a cortado for $1. Similar to a macchiato, a cortado is an espresso shot cut with milk. As I rarely venture outside of black coffee, I regretted my choice. However, the heart shape on the foam again made for a pretty picture.

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Big kited bluefin on the Red Rooster III

Lake fishing heating up as the weather cools
Next Article

At Comedor Nishi a world of cuisines meet for brunch

A Mexican eatery with Japanese and French influences
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader