Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Filipino cuisine gets contemporary

Ocean Pacific Grille reads “of the moment”

Crispy skin sea bass served with mussels in tamarind and tomato broth
Crispy skin sea bass served with mussels in tamarind and tomato broth
Place

Ocean Pacific Grille

531 F Street, San Diego

Filipino cuisine has been tabbed by food experts and national magazines as “the next big thing” for several years now. While San Diego does offer a number of restaurants serving traditional dishes such as lumpia, chicken adobo, and sisig, when I spoke to a number of Filipino-American foodies at a pop-up dinner last March, most of them agreed the quality wasn’t enough to inspire them to eat out, saying the the food typically couldn’t compare to the dishes their mothers and grandmothers made.

Sponsored
Sponsored
Ocean Pacific Grille

So I took note of the opening of Ocean Pacific Grille in June. Offering what its website calls “Exquisite, fresh seafood with bold Pacific flavors in a Filipino state of mind,” the upscale eatery brings the en vogue cuisine to the Gaslamp. Well, sort of.

This is more modern fare than traditional — distinctly current plates such as pecan-crusted halibut and braised short ribs run through the filter of Pacific Island cuisines, including the owners’ and chef’s home state, Hawaii.

In fact, neither the menu or restaurant décor play up the Pinoy influence, aside from the occasional reference such as shrimp and pork lumpia, adobe baby back ribs, and a Filipino Tocino Toast, a bacon dish which draws from Spanish colonial influence and features roasted tomatoes and burrata.

Rather, this place delivers a standard contemporary mid- to high-end experience. There’s an open kitchen with chef’s counter dining, neatly dressed tables, and coordinated mixed wood and planters.

Potato chips and flying fish roe contribute to the Spicy Tuna Tartar

Likewise, the presentation of dishes was superb. We started with the Kilawin section of the menu — one of the few to make use of a Filipino term (this refers to raw fish). The Spicy Tuna Tartar ($14) turned out to be the favorite of the night — beautifully arranged spiced ahi sashimi topped by tobiko (flying fish roe) served with fresh-made potato chips. The latter reminding me of barbecue-flavored Lays the first few bites, but once I settled into the nuances of the unusual spice meshing with the fish and roe flavors I looked forward to the main courses.

Not to say the Kare Kare short ribs disappointed. Short ribs turn up on every contemporary menu in town, but this is the first I’ve seen that takes off from a traditional Filipino stew. The flavor was great, yet at the end of the day, 25 dollars spent on a ubiquitous cut of meat didn’t make the most of this restaurant’s ability.

A better bet was the crispy skin sea bass ($27), served with mussels with a tamarind tomato broth. The well-cooked fish would have tasted fine without that broth, but while thin, the zesty red liquid contributed some novel flavors to the meal. I wanted to fully douse each bite with it and probably should have eaten the fish with a spoon to better capitalize.

I spent eight times the amount of money at Ocean Pacific than I did at the last Filipino restaurant I visited in National City, but I had a far better meal. For newbies to this cultural cuisine, I’d suggest asking lots of questions and steering away from familiar dishes to go for something that rings more authentically Filipino. If Filipino cuisine is having its moment, Ocean Pacific Grille may serve as your best introduction to the flavors driving it.

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Escondido planners nix office building switch to apartments

Not enough open space, not enough closets for Hickory Street plans
Next Article

Five new golden locals

San Diego rocks the rockies
Crispy skin sea bass served with mussels in tamarind and tomato broth
Crispy skin sea bass served with mussels in tamarind and tomato broth
Place

Ocean Pacific Grille

531 F Street, San Diego

Filipino cuisine has been tabbed by food experts and national magazines as “the next big thing” for several years now. While San Diego does offer a number of restaurants serving traditional dishes such as lumpia, chicken adobo, and sisig, when I spoke to a number of Filipino-American foodies at a pop-up dinner last March, most of them agreed the quality wasn’t enough to inspire them to eat out, saying the the food typically couldn’t compare to the dishes their mothers and grandmothers made.

Sponsored
Sponsored
Ocean Pacific Grille

So I took note of the opening of Ocean Pacific Grille in June. Offering what its website calls “Exquisite, fresh seafood with bold Pacific flavors in a Filipino state of mind,” the upscale eatery brings the en vogue cuisine to the Gaslamp. Well, sort of.

This is more modern fare than traditional — distinctly current plates such as pecan-crusted halibut and braised short ribs run through the filter of Pacific Island cuisines, including the owners’ and chef’s home state, Hawaii.

In fact, neither the menu or restaurant décor play up the Pinoy influence, aside from the occasional reference such as shrimp and pork lumpia, adobe baby back ribs, and a Filipino Tocino Toast, a bacon dish which draws from Spanish colonial influence and features roasted tomatoes and burrata.

Rather, this place delivers a standard contemporary mid- to high-end experience. There’s an open kitchen with chef’s counter dining, neatly dressed tables, and coordinated mixed wood and planters.

Potato chips and flying fish roe contribute to the Spicy Tuna Tartar

Likewise, the presentation of dishes was superb. We started with the Kilawin section of the menu — one of the few to make use of a Filipino term (this refers to raw fish). The Spicy Tuna Tartar ($14) turned out to be the favorite of the night — beautifully arranged spiced ahi sashimi topped by tobiko (flying fish roe) served with fresh-made potato chips. The latter reminding me of barbecue-flavored Lays the first few bites, but once I settled into the nuances of the unusual spice meshing with the fish and roe flavors I looked forward to the main courses.

Not to say the Kare Kare short ribs disappointed. Short ribs turn up on every contemporary menu in town, but this is the first I’ve seen that takes off from a traditional Filipino stew. The flavor was great, yet at the end of the day, 25 dollars spent on a ubiquitous cut of meat didn’t make the most of this restaurant’s ability.

A better bet was the crispy skin sea bass ($27), served with mussels with a tamarind tomato broth. The well-cooked fish would have tasted fine without that broth, but while thin, the zesty red liquid contributed some novel flavors to the meal. I wanted to fully douse each bite with it and probably should have eaten the fish with a spoon to better capitalize.

I spent eight times the amount of money at Ocean Pacific than I did at the last Filipino restaurant I visited in National City, but I had a far better meal. For newbies to this cultural cuisine, I’d suggest asking lots of questions and steering away from familiar dishes to go for something that rings more authentically Filipino. If Filipino cuisine is having its moment, Ocean Pacific Grille may serve as your best introduction to the flavors driving it.

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Last plane out of Seoul, 1950

Memories of a daring escape at the start of a war
Next Article

Second largest yellowfin tuna caught by rod and reel

Excel does it again
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader