Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Legit salad

"This is our tradition from Israel. Make everything."

Fried eggplant, green and yellow zucchini, plenty of spuds, and only $5.49.
Fried eggplant, green and yellow zucchini, plenty of spuds, and only $5.49.
Place

Vanoos Grillette

4614 Mission Boulevard, San Diego

The frontage on Mission Boulevard

OMG. When Hadil lands the chicken shawarma salad in front of Cindy, Cindy gasps.

And so does everybody else in the little room. It’s huge. A boat-shaped plate, laden with fries, chicken shawarma, tahini sauce, and, underneath, tons of greens, tomatoes, onions, pickles, and I don’t know what-all else. I see it costs $12.99. A moment later she hands Mike, the guy with Cindy, a big three-cornered bowl of grilled Chicken Caesar ($9.99). There’s a ton in there, plus a really big side boat of Caesar dressing.

“That’s what you get here,” says Ryan. “A lot. We learned about this place from next door. West Coast Cuts. They said we had to come. Said you get more than you bargained for.”

Cindy laughs at the size of her chicken shawarma salad

Ryan says he and his buddy are from Philadelphia, PA, so they know good cheese steak. That’s what he’s eating. “Trust me. This is good. Meat’s fine-shaved, cheese is right. Rolls are Amoroso for sure.”

We’re in this tiny, six-table eatery in PB. Mission Boulevard. Nine at night. Discovered it between West Coast Cuts, the barber shop, and Bicycle Discovery.

“Vanoos Grillette,” its awning said. Then, “Falafel, Shawarma, “Cheese Steak, Gyro, Salad, Wraps.”

Sponsored
Sponsored

It was open, and looked cheap enough for me. That was all I cared. I was broke. As I came in, to a purple and light-blue-walled deli-type place, this guy came up to the counter.

Ryan and his cheese steak

“Have you got mine ready yet? Because I’ve been waiting, like, ten minutes, and I’m in a hurry.”

“Sorry, sir,” says the woman behind the counter. “But we make everything by hand here. It takes time.”

She points to the sign “Vanoos Grillette, the home of homemade food.”

“If you want to take your money back and cancel the order, that’s okay. Otherwise, maybe ten more minutes.”

“I’ll cancel.”

“Fine,” she says, and goes to the register. “Sal! Halt that order!”

She hands the guy the money. “That’s the thing,” she says to the rest of us waiting here. “We are not fast food. We make everything in the store, Israeli-style.”

Huh. She’s Hadil. Says Sal, the big guy cooking in the kitchen, is her husband, and a kid yakking away with him is their young daughter.

Hadil

“That’s Vanoos, short for Vanessa,” she says. “It means ‘Butterfly.’ We named this place after her.”

Hadil says they are from Nazareth. They speak Hebrew, Arabic, and English. “Vanoos speaks Hebrew, Arabic, and English, too, and she is four years old,” says Sal. “We are Greek Orthodox Christians. Nazareth is the town where Jesus grew up.”

He says he brings olive oil from Israel to use here. “And I bring spices for our za’atar as well.”

Za’atar? Never heard of it. But I see it in the menu’s list of appetizers. “Seasoned blend of dried herbs mixed with olive oil and labne (a kind of thicker, richer, creamier yogurt), served on flat pita bread, $5.99.”

Most of the items on the menu are salads, sandwiches, subs. And most cost around nine bucks. The New Jersey Sloppy Joe ($8.99) has roast beef, turkey, or ham and Swiss, plus coleslaw and Russian dressing on rye. Wraps, subs salads, hot sandwiches...they all look pretty much like your average sandwich shop on the page.

I ask for their vegetable salad because, one, I’ve been eating too much gunge lately; and, two, it looks like it could be a bit naughty, as salads go. It has fried eggplant, green and yellow zucchini, potatoes “finely chopped with garlic lemon dressing, topped with tahini sauce.” Tahini’s the sesame-seed paste. Love it. Also love that this costs only $5.49 for the eight-ounce version ($8.99 for the 16-ounce). I order the eight-ounce.

The cheese steak

“So, how different is this food from what you eat back in Nazareth?” I ask Sal.

“Not at all. It is the same. Back there, they may have different stalls with specialties, like hummus or baba ghanouj, but we make it the same here as we did there. For our shawarma [gyro], we rub in mixed spices we bring from Israel. And see these stuffed grape leaves? Hadil stuffs them with ground beef or vegetables, rice, and fresh lemon. And guess where the leaves come from?”

I give up. “From a can?”

“From my four grape vines here in San Diego! I cut the leaves from them and bring them down to Hadil on the days when she’s mixing the stuffing ingredients. So the leaves will be fresh. That is the difference we are trying to make. See that roast beef? We roast it. See the hummus? We make it. This is our tradition from Israel. Make everything. Why do I import our olive oil from Israel? People around Nazareth only harvest the olives every second year, so the trees have time to recover and give full flavor to the olives. Not like the annual ones in California.”

Mike's enormous chicken Caesar

All this time I have been standing by for my li’l five-dollar meal. But it’s worth the wait. It is luscious with that eggplant and spuds and lotsa tahini squirted all over. The zucchini and eggplant and potatoes and peppers have all been fried, for sure, but they have plenty of lettuce to counter it and keep it legit as a salad.

If I had more time, I’d go for their grape leaves (six for $5.99) or the za-atar, one of the most ancient tapas among Palestinians and Israelis, Sal says. I mean, we’re talking history here. People have been living around Nazareth for unbelievable eons of time. Maybe as much as 10,000 years. And eating salads like za-atar. Jesus probably ate za-atar, right in Nazareth. His home town.

And, talk about work ethic. Sal has his master’s degree in electrical engineering. That’s his day job. But every night he’s here. Meanwhile, Hadil has worked here seven days a week, ten hours every single day for the past three years.

These guys know what it takes to make an American dream happen.


Prices: Pizza on flat pita, $3.99; stuffed grape leaves, $5.99; za’atar (dried herbs, labne, olive oil on pita bread, $5.99; chicken shawarma salad, $12.99; grilled Chicken Caesar, $9.99; New Jersey Sloppy Joe, $8.99; vegetable salad, $5.49 (8 oz), $8.99 (16 oz); tabouli salad (with bulgur), $5.49, $8.99; lamb shawarma,$8.99; cheese steak hot sandwich, $8.99

Hours: 11:00 a.m.–10:00 p.m. daily

Buses: 8, 9, 27

Nearest bus stop: Mission Boulevard and Garnet Avenue

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

At Comedor Nishi a world of cuisines meet for brunch

A Mexican eatery with Japanese and French influences
Next Article

Big kited bluefin on the Red Rooster III

Lake fishing heating up as the weather cools
Fried eggplant, green and yellow zucchini, plenty of spuds, and only $5.49.
Fried eggplant, green and yellow zucchini, plenty of spuds, and only $5.49.
Place

Vanoos Grillette

4614 Mission Boulevard, San Diego

The frontage on Mission Boulevard

OMG. When Hadil lands the chicken shawarma salad in front of Cindy, Cindy gasps.

And so does everybody else in the little room. It’s huge. A boat-shaped plate, laden with fries, chicken shawarma, tahini sauce, and, underneath, tons of greens, tomatoes, onions, pickles, and I don’t know what-all else. I see it costs $12.99. A moment later she hands Mike, the guy with Cindy, a big three-cornered bowl of grilled Chicken Caesar ($9.99). There’s a ton in there, plus a really big side boat of Caesar dressing.

“That’s what you get here,” says Ryan. “A lot. We learned about this place from next door. West Coast Cuts. They said we had to come. Said you get more than you bargained for.”

Cindy laughs at the size of her chicken shawarma salad

Ryan says he and his buddy are from Philadelphia, PA, so they know good cheese steak. That’s what he’s eating. “Trust me. This is good. Meat’s fine-shaved, cheese is right. Rolls are Amoroso for sure.”

We’re in this tiny, six-table eatery in PB. Mission Boulevard. Nine at night. Discovered it between West Coast Cuts, the barber shop, and Bicycle Discovery.

“Vanoos Grillette,” its awning said. Then, “Falafel, Shawarma, “Cheese Steak, Gyro, Salad, Wraps.”

Sponsored
Sponsored

It was open, and looked cheap enough for me. That was all I cared. I was broke. As I came in, to a purple and light-blue-walled deli-type place, this guy came up to the counter.

Ryan and his cheese steak

“Have you got mine ready yet? Because I’ve been waiting, like, ten minutes, and I’m in a hurry.”

“Sorry, sir,” says the woman behind the counter. “But we make everything by hand here. It takes time.”

She points to the sign “Vanoos Grillette, the home of homemade food.”

“If you want to take your money back and cancel the order, that’s okay. Otherwise, maybe ten more minutes.”

“I’ll cancel.”

“Fine,” she says, and goes to the register. “Sal! Halt that order!”

She hands the guy the money. “That’s the thing,” she says to the rest of us waiting here. “We are not fast food. We make everything in the store, Israeli-style.”

Huh. She’s Hadil. Says Sal, the big guy cooking in the kitchen, is her husband, and a kid yakking away with him is their young daughter.

Hadil

“That’s Vanoos, short for Vanessa,” she says. “It means ‘Butterfly.’ We named this place after her.”

Hadil says they are from Nazareth. They speak Hebrew, Arabic, and English. “Vanoos speaks Hebrew, Arabic, and English, too, and she is four years old,” says Sal. “We are Greek Orthodox Christians. Nazareth is the town where Jesus grew up.”

He says he brings olive oil from Israel to use here. “And I bring spices for our za’atar as well.”

Za’atar? Never heard of it. But I see it in the menu’s list of appetizers. “Seasoned blend of dried herbs mixed with olive oil and labne (a kind of thicker, richer, creamier yogurt), served on flat pita bread, $5.99.”

Most of the items on the menu are salads, sandwiches, subs. And most cost around nine bucks. The New Jersey Sloppy Joe ($8.99) has roast beef, turkey, or ham and Swiss, plus coleslaw and Russian dressing on rye. Wraps, subs salads, hot sandwiches...they all look pretty much like your average sandwich shop on the page.

I ask for their vegetable salad because, one, I’ve been eating too much gunge lately; and, two, it looks like it could be a bit naughty, as salads go. It has fried eggplant, green and yellow zucchini, potatoes “finely chopped with garlic lemon dressing, topped with tahini sauce.” Tahini’s the sesame-seed paste. Love it. Also love that this costs only $5.49 for the eight-ounce version ($8.99 for the 16-ounce). I order the eight-ounce.

The cheese steak

“So, how different is this food from what you eat back in Nazareth?” I ask Sal.

“Not at all. It is the same. Back there, they may have different stalls with specialties, like hummus or baba ghanouj, but we make it the same here as we did there. For our shawarma [gyro], we rub in mixed spices we bring from Israel. And see these stuffed grape leaves? Hadil stuffs them with ground beef or vegetables, rice, and fresh lemon. And guess where the leaves come from?”

I give up. “From a can?”

“From my four grape vines here in San Diego! I cut the leaves from them and bring them down to Hadil on the days when she’s mixing the stuffing ingredients. So the leaves will be fresh. That is the difference we are trying to make. See that roast beef? We roast it. See the hummus? We make it. This is our tradition from Israel. Make everything. Why do I import our olive oil from Israel? People around Nazareth only harvest the olives every second year, so the trees have time to recover and give full flavor to the olives. Not like the annual ones in California.”

Mike's enormous chicken Caesar

All this time I have been standing by for my li’l five-dollar meal. But it’s worth the wait. It is luscious with that eggplant and spuds and lotsa tahini squirted all over. The zucchini and eggplant and potatoes and peppers have all been fried, for sure, but they have plenty of lettuce to counter it and keep it legit as a salad.

If I had more time, I’d go for their grape leaves (six for $5.99) or the za-atar, one of the most ancient tapas among Palestinians and Israelis, Sal says. I mean, we’re talking history here. People have been living around Nazareth for unbelievable eons of time. Maybe as much as 10,000 years. And eating salads like za-atar. Jesus probably ate za-atar, right in Nazareth. His home town.

And, talk about work ethic. Sal has his master’s degree in electrical engineering. That’s his day job. But every night he’s here. Meanwhile, Hadil has worked here seven days a week, ten hours every single day for the past three years.

These guys know what it takes to make an American dream happen.


Prices: Pizza on flat pita, $3.99; stuffed grape leaves, $5.99; za’atar (dried herbs, labne, olive oil on pita bread, $5.99; chicken shawarma salad, $12.99; grilled Chicken Caesar, $9.99; New Jersey Sloppy Joe, $8.99; vegetable salad, $5.49 (8 oz), $8.99 (16 oz); tabouli salad (with bulgur), $5.49, $8.99; lamb shawarma,$8.99; cheese steak hot sandwich, $8.99

Hours: 11:00 a.m.–10:00 p.m. daily

Buses: 8, 9, 27

Nearest bus stop: Mission Boulevard and Garnet Avenue

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Reader writer Chris Ahrens tells the story of Windansea

The shack is a landmark declaring, “The best break in the area is out there.”
Next Article

Mary Catherine Swanson wants every San Diego student going to college

Where busing from Southeast San Diego to University City has led
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader