Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

For those who make the trek, these massive salt flats are a sight to behold.

Flamingoes are everywhere in Bolivia's otherworldly Salar de Uyuni.
Flamingoes are everywhere in Bolivia's otherworldly Salar de Uyuni.

The landlocked (and usually overlooked) country of Bolivia in South America is home to the largest salt flats in the world, visible by astronauts in space.

Salt domes in Salar de Uyuni.

The Salar de Uyuni is 25 times larger than Utah’s Bonneville Salt Flats at 12,000 square kilometers and comprises most of the Bolivian altiplano. It would be an ideal location for a Star Wars movie if it weren’t 3,600 meters above sea level with some areas at 5100 meters creating migraines and altitude sickness.

All travelers experience the typical Bolivian bus ride from the capital of La Paz with 13 hours of rattling and shaking across rugged and often inhospitable terrain with below-zero temperatures. Once you arrive you’ll feel as though you’ve been through a vibrating gym workout with ice-cold feet. On the bright side, there are plenty of photo opportunities along the way with wildlife such as birds, llamas, flamingoes (top) and plenty of cute chinchillas. Many travelers visit Bolivia just to experience this region.

Sponsored
Sponsored

I had read that the town of Uyuni was an unattractive place full of trash with little to keep you there; as we approached the settlements there were hundreds of plastic bags in the bushes and everywhere we saw wrecked cars resembling a war-torn place. The center of the city is full of unpaved roads and overpriced internet cafes, souvenirs and restaurants. The city is a bit dead, and the only real attraction is an old train graveyard full of rusty old trains littered with trash.

One of the many hotels made of salt.

Once I arrived and had a breakfast of cold eggs and stale bread, I was ready to head out for a road trip through the outback and get out of Uyuni. Most accommodations in the area are made of either mud or salt (and very basic) with little insulation. Heat and hot water are not amenities; even the walls, beds and furniture are made of salt.

Tour operators in Uyuni all offer the same thing at the same price so trust your gut feeling when it comes to choosing a trip. Make sure there are a maximum of six people in a vehicle, as fatal accidents have occurred in the past when people were crammed into vehicles. Don’t make the mistake I did and pay for “first-class” seating – all seats are the same, and complaining gets you nowhere in Bolivia. The customer is definitely not king here. Check on border crossing fees before you arrive so you're not charged with illegal fees.

Some of the realities of Uyuni tours include questionable food, accommodations with no running water in ice-cold rooms, infrequent electricity and no internet service, radio or TV. You might eat at a restaurant in near total darkness depending on electrical service.

The Salar de Uyuni Hotel (left) is one of the most popular attractions with travelers around the world. Constructed entirely of salt blocks and resembling an igloo, this charming hotel is one of the very few hotels with working fireplaces, electric heat and cozy bedding. And the food was decent for Bolivian standards.

Lobby of Salar de Uyuni Hotel.

At the opposite end of luxury is the Hostal Marith, a quiet no-nonsense backpackers’ favorite. You won’t find consistent service (or regular hot water or heat) here. Lonely Planet recommends this place for the budget traveler, but many traveler reviews don’t share this recommendation.

The best accommodations fill up fast, so reservations are recommended especially if coming into Uyuni late at night. Only the more expensive hotels have heat and hot water, so a sleeping bag and waterless shampoo and body wash are recommended. There is water rationing here year-round.

The best months to visit are April, May, September, October and November, when there’s plenty of sun and less chance of rain or snow.

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Gonzo Report: Eating dinner while little kids mock-mosh at Golden Island

“The tot absorbs the punk rock shot with the skill of experience”
Flamingoes are everywhere in Bolivia's otherworldly Salar de Uyuni.
Flamingoes are everywhere in Bolivia's otherworldly Salar de Uyuni.

The landlocked (and usually overlooked) country of Bolivia in South America is home to the largest salt flats in the world, visible by astronauts in space.

Salt domes in Salar de Uyuni.

The Salar de Uyuni is 25 times larger than Utah’s Bonneville Salt Flats at 12,000 square kilometers and comprises most of the Bolivian altiplano. It would be an ideal location for a Star Wars movie if it weren’t 3,600 meters above sea level with some areas at 5100 meters creating migraines and altitude sickness.

All travelers experience the typical Bolivian bus ride from the capital of La Paz with 13 hours of rattling and shaking across rugged and often inhospitable terrain with below-zero temperatures. Once you arrive you’ll feel as though you’ve been through a vibrating gym workout with ice-cold feet. On the bright side, there are plenty of photo opportunities along the way with wildlife such as birds, llamas, flamingoes (top) and plenty of cute chinchillas. Many travelers visit Bolivia just to experience this region.

Sponsored
Sponsored

I had read that the town of Uyuni was an unattractive place full of trash with little to keep you there; as we approached the settlements there were hundreds of plastic bags in the bushes and everywhere we saw wrecked cars resembling a war-torn place. The center of the city is full of unpaved roads and overpriced internet cafes, souvenirs and restaurants. The city is a bit dead, and the only real attraction is an old train graveyard full of rusty old trains littered with trash.

One of the many hotels made of salt.

Once I arrived and had a breakfast of cold eggs and stale bread, I was ready to head out for a road trip through the outback and get out of Uyuni. Most accommodations in the area are made of either mud or salt (and very basic) with little insulation. Heat and hot water are not amenities; even the walls, beds and furniture are made of salt.

Tour operators in Uyuni all offer the same thing at the same price so trust your gut feeling when it comes to choosing a trip. Make sure there are a maximum of six people in a vehicle, as fatal accidents have occurred in the past when people were crammed into vehicles. Don’t make the mistake I did and pay for “first-class” seating – all seats are the same, and complaining gets you nowhere in Bolivia. The customer is definitely not king here. Check on border crossing fees before you arrive so you're not charged with illegal fees.

Some of the realities of Uyuni tours include questionable food, accommodations with no running water in ice-cold rooms, infrequent electricity and no internet service, radio or TV. You might eat at a restaurant in near total darkness depending on electrical service.

The Salar de Uyuni Hotel (left) is one of the most popular attractions with travelers around the world. Constructed entirely of salt blocks and resembling an igloo, this charming hotel is one of the very few hotels with working fireplaces, electric heat and cozy bedding. And the food was decent for Bolivian standards.

Lobby of Salar de Uyuni Hotel.

At the opposite end of luxury is the Hostal Marith, a quiet no-nonsense backpackers’ favorite. You won’t find consistent service (or regular hot water or heat) here. Lonely Planet recommends this place for the budget traveler, but many traveler reviews don’t share this recommendation.

The best accommodations fill up fast, so reservations are recommended especially if coming into Uyuni late at night. Only the more expensive hotels have heat and hot water, so a sleeping bag and waterless shampoo and body wash are recommended. There is water rationing here year-round.

The best months to visit are April, May, September, October and November, when there’s plenty of sun and less chance of rain or snow.

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Pie pleasure at Queenstown Public House

A taste of New Zealand brings back happy memories
Next Article

Woodpeckers are stocking away acorns, Amorous tarantulas

Stunning sycamores, Mars rising
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader