Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Celebrating Mexican independence in Sherman Heights

The food way is the good way at Ma Eugenia's.

Place

Ma Eugenia’s Kitchen

2455 Imperial Avenue, San Diego

Ma Eugenia would hear the cry every year.

It was the cry of Don Miguel Gregorio Antonio Ignacio Hidalgo-Costilla y Gallaga Mandarte Villaseñor.

Okay, Father Hidalgo to you and me. He gave that famous cry that launched the Mexican struggle for independence from Spain.

In Dolores, Mexico, September 16th, 1810.

Sponsored
Sponsored

His was the cry like Patrick Henry's "Give me liberty or give me death!"

Alfredo and his mom, Ma Eugenia

"We'd hear it every year in the Plaza Melchor Ocampo, in our town of Morelia, Michoacán," says Ma Eugenia's son, Alfredo.

They'd hear it the because the city's main plaza was where Eugenia had her food stand. She would hear the cries as she cooked and sold the foods of the patriótico fiesta. The tacos dorados, chiles rellenos, and other foods special to days of national celebration.

So hey, this being the week of *El Grito," I'm up here at 25th and Imperial looking for Mexican celebration foods, and had to stop in at Ma Eugenia's (2455 Imperial Avenue, Sherman Heights). Because Alfredo and his Ma and his wife (both named Eugenia) do the real thing. Just the same food as she cooked in the Plaza back in Morelio.

I see chafing dishes bubbling with everything from pig skins to cactus paddles to Poblano chiles stuffed with mozzarella cheese. "We would have all of these on celebration days," says Ma Eugenia.

I have a jamaica ($1.79), the red juice of the hibiscus flower that's often used in celebrations Alfredo says, and is also incredibly good for you, loaded with antioxidants. And then I go for the chile rellenos plus a small pile of fried pork skins, chicharones, in salsa verde ($7.50).

Eugenia cooks me up some fresh corn tortillas and brings them to the table in a closed round box along with my "Grito!" dinner.

First thing you notice on the plate is the big poblano chile pod, golden in its egg batter.

You cut it open, and there inside is the oozy cheese and the green skin of the pepper. Dang, it's tender and delicious.

But so are the chicharones. Their salsa verde is light, but prickly hot. I risk scalding my hand to haul out a corn tortilla and wrap some of the rice and frijoles that also fill the plate.

Great breakfast deal, too

As I eat, Alfredo tells me how his ma came up single-handedly to the States, back in 1988, after his brother was killed, and funeral costs ruined her tender finances. She has never been back. But now, 25 years later, she has made a life for her family here, cooking exactly what she used to cook in Morelio's town square, on days when the crowds all around would be shouting the Grito.

"Viva México!"

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Conservatives cry, “Turnabout is fair gay!”

Will Three See Eight’s Fate?
Place

Ma Eugenia’s Kitchen

2455 Imperial Avenue, San Diego

Ma Eugenia would hear the cry every year.

It was the cry of Don Miguel Gregorio Antonio Ignacio Hidalgo-Costilla y Gallaga Mandarte Villaseñor.

Okay, Father Hidalgo to you and me. He gave that famous cry that launched the Mexican struggle for independence from Spain.

In Dolores, Mexico, September 16th, 1810.

Sponsored
Sponsored

His was the cry like Patrick Henry's "Give me liberty or give me death!"

Alfredo and his mom, Ma Eugenia

"We'd hear it every year in the Plaza Melchor Ocampo, in our town of Morelia, Michoacán," says Ma Eugenia's son, Alfredo.

They'd hear it the because the city's main plaza was where Eugenia had her food stand. She would hear the cries as she cooked and sold the foods of the patriótico fiesta. The tacos dorados, chiles rellenos, and other foods special to days of national celebration.

So hey, this being the week of *El Grito," I'm up here at 25th and Imperial looking for Mexican celebration foods, and had to stop in at Ma Eugenia's (2455 Imperial Avenue, Sherman Heights). Because Alfredo and his Ma and his wife (both named Eugenia) do the real thing. Just the same food as she cooked in the Plaza back in Morelio.

I see chafing dishes bubbling with everything from pig skins to cactus paddles to Poblano chiles stuffed with mozzarella cheese. "We would have all of these on celebration days," says Ma Eugenia.

I have a jamaica ($1.79), the red juice of the hibiscus flower that's often used in celebrations Alfredo says, and is also incredibly good for you, loaded with antioxidants. And then I go for the chile rellenos plus a small pile of fried pork skins, chicharones, in salsa verde ($7.50).

Eugenia cooks me up some fresh corn tortillas and brings them to the table in a closed round box along with my "Grito!" dinner.

First thing you notice on the plate is the big poblano chile pod, golden in its egg batter.

You cut it open, and there inside is the oozy cheese and the green skin of the pepper. Dang, it's tender and delicious.

But so are the chicharones. Their salsa verde is light, but prickly hot. I risk scalding my hand to haul out a corn tortilla and wrap some of the rice and frijoles that also fill the plate.

Great breakfast deal, too

As I eat, Alfredo tells me how his ma came up single-handedly to the States, back in 1988, after his brother was killed, and funeral costs ruined her tender finances. She has never been back. But now, 25 years later, she has made a life for her family here, cooking exactly what she used to cook in Morelio's town square, on days when the crowds all around would be shouting the Grito.

"Viva México!"

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Gonzo Report: Three nights of Mission Bayfest bring bliss

“This is a top-notch production.”
Next Article

WAV College Church reminds kids that time is short

College is a formational time for decisions about belief
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader