Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Real Russian shots: Moscow

Spirited storytelling and vodka lessons from a master bartender.

Mikhail shows off a few bottles of Russia's finest.
Mikhail shows off a few bottles of Russia's finest.

The bar at Moscow’s Marriott Grand Hotel on Tverskaya Street – a hop, goose step and jump up the road from the Kremlin – is the place to learn the fine art of drinking vodka, Russian-style.

Bartender Mikhail Gerchenko corralled my wife I as soon as we had checked in by asking if I knew how to drink vodka. When I answered affirmatively, he said, “No you don’t,” and waved us over to his bar.

Sponsored
Sponsored

He proceeded to pour drinks, starting with what he called “people’s” vodka, then working up in class through names un-pronounceable to me, all the while pouring with grand gestures, and lecturing on the finer points of how filtering through charcoal, silver or gold gives this national drink an ever-increasing buttery taste.

Vodka and gherkins.

He insisted vodka must be drunk from an iced shot glass that was run under warm water and then kept in the freezer for exactly 15 minutes. Each shot must be preceded by a very salty bite of gherkin (left). He used this time to relate how his father and grandfather had tended bar, a profession that carries great cache in Russia, and that his great-grandfather had been a valet and chief vodka server to Nicholas the Second, last ruling Czar until his untimely demise.

By this time we were under his storytelling spell, even if it was obvious he was spinning a slightly taller yarn than the facts supported.

According to Mikhail, his ancestors were the only ones to ever pour a drink for the imperial Russian aristocracy and that same grandfather also helped to found the Vodka Museum in the fairytale village of Mandrogi, a tiny speck on the Volga destroyed during Second World War battles and rebuilt as something between a movie set and a Gaudí nightmare.

Real Russian shots.

There, in a tiny log cabin at the edge of a wood, you can peruse over 3,000 different types of vodka – all in their own unique containers, such as a porcelain reproduction of the submarine Kursk that went down a few years ago with all hands (left), while staring at photos of Russian leaders from Nikita Khrushchev to Vladimir Putin, all bending their elbows at their venerable bar, proving that in Russia, vodka is a way of life long after death.

Real Russian shots.

By the end of his story, we had lost track of our shots and our Western palettes were not sophisticated enough to appreciate the subtle differences between the vodkas we sampled, but we left with Anglo-Russian relations on a high and a big hit to our credit card.

On our way out we noticed a wooden ammo case holding a glass bottle of Kalashnikov Vodka in the shape of an AK-47 by the manufacturer of the same name.

"It’s what we really call a 'shot' of vodka," yelled Mikhail with a bow and flourish.

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Secrets of Resilience in May's Unforgettable Memoir

Mikhail shows off a few bottles of Russia's finest.
Mikhail shows off a few bottles of Russia's finest.

The bar at Moscow’s Marriott Grand Hotel on Tverskaya Street – a hop, goose step and jump up the road from the Kremlin – is the place to learn the fine art of drinking vodka, Russian-style.

Bartender Mikhail Gerchenko corralled my wife I as soon as we had checked in by asking if I knew how to drink vodka. When I answered affirmatively, he said, “No you don’t,” and waved us over to his bar.

Sponsored
Sponsored

He proceeded to pour drinks, starting with what he called “people’s” vodka, then working up in class through names un-pronounceable to me, all the while pouring with grand gestures, and lecturing on the finer points of how filtering through charcoal, silver or gold gives this national drink an ever-increasing buttery taste.

Vodka and gherkins.

He insisted vodka must be drunk from an iced shot glass that was run under warm water and then kept in the freezer for exactly 15 minutes. Each shot must be preceded by a very salty bite of gherkin (left). He used this time to relate how his father and grandfather had tended bar, a profession that carries great cache in Russia, and that his great-grandfather had been a valet and chief vodka server to Nicholas the Second, last ruling Czar until his untimely demise.

By this time we were under his storytelling spell, even if it was obvious he was spinning a slightly taller yarn than the facts supported.

According to Mikhail, his ancestors were the only ones to ever pour a drink for the imperial Russian aristocracy and that same grandfather also helped to found the Vodka Museum in the fairytale village of Mandrogi, a tiny speck on the Volga destroyed during Second World War battles and rebuilt as something between a movie set and a Gaudí nightmare.

Real Russian shots.

There, in a tiny log cabin at the edge of a wood, you can peruse over 3,000 different types of vodka – all in their own unique containers, such as a porcelain reproduction of the submarine Kursk that went down a few years ago with all hands (left), while staring at photos of Russian leaders from Nikita Khrushchev to Vladimir Putin, all bending their elbows at their venerable bar, proving that in Russia, vodka is a way of life long after death.

Real Russian shots.

By the end of his story, we had lost track of our shots and our Western palettes were not sophisticated enough to appreciate the subtle differences between the vodkas we sampled, but we left with Anglo-Russian relations on a high and a big hit to our credit card.

On our way out we noticed a wooden ammo case holding a glass bottle of Kalashnikov Vodka in the shape of an AK-47 by the manufacturer of the same name.

"It’s what we really call a 'shot' of vodka," yelled Mikhail with a bow and flourish.

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Memories of bonfires amid the pits off Palm

Before it was Ocean View Hills, it was party central
Next Article

Hike off those holiday calories, Poinsettias are peaking

Winter Solstice is here and what is winter?
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader