Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

The Seychelles

In search of a secluded beach on the island of Mahé.

Abandoned boats near Victoria on the island of Mahé.
Abandoned boats near Victoria on the island of Mahé.

I signed up for a wildlife volunteer project in the Seychelles. In order to get accustomed to the time change and to get my PADI, I went a few days early. Another volunteer for a different project, Sarah, shared a hotel room with me.

One afternoon, Sarah and I decided to go on a hike to a secluded beach. Before heading out, we got breakfast from a bakery near our hotel. It had the best bread I've ever tasted – soft and fresh out of the oven.

After a short bus ride up a two-lane street lined with thick green trees, we arrived in Victoria.

Sponsored
Sponsored

Our first stop was the market. We wandered through the square where locals were selling fruits, veggies and tourist trifles. I bought a few postcards to write while tanning on the beach. Casually making our way around the city, we wandered back to the bus stop.

After more time on a different, overcrowded bus, we were dropped off at the end of a road where a few houses and a closed restaurant dotted the landscape. A few small, colorful boats sat under some trees (above). We stopped in a hole-in-the-wall market that seemed overrun with expired and Asian snacks, bought a few that we hoped were edible and not expired, and continued.

We looked around for a trailhead marker, only to get distracted by a fruit bat in a wire cage. Its owner called us over to look at his pet, and talked to us about where we were going and where we were from. He encouraged us to pet the bat. I was dissuaded, since Contagion was still in the forefront of my mind.

The starting point was up a steep hill marked by a water tap at the top. We filled our bottles. It was cool and refreshing. We entered the path under a huge covering of trees.

on the trail

Although the beginning convinced us that the hike’s “easy” rating in the guidebook was accurate, that thought was soon shattered: not only did the trees disappear, the hill got steeper. It was hot and humid. We continued on, climbing granite rocks on a small ledge built into the side of the cliffs (left), up and down, through trees offering scant patches of shade.

When we were in the open, gazing into the clear water with the palm trees below us and the birds above, we realized the view was worth every drop of sweat.

It was supposed to be a two-hour hike, and around that time we began looking for the beach. Descending down some large boulders, we entered a thick set of trees, where we lost the trail. A few more steps down more rocks, we reached our destination – to be shared with two men in speedos.

We were disappointed when we waded into the water and discovered that under the waves, sharp rocks were lurking. Under normal conditions this would have been fine. But the waves were pounding the beach, and it was unsafe.

sunset in the Seychelles

After 20 minutes, we left and hiked back to find another beach where we drank Takamaka rum with coke. For the remaining daylight, we floated among the waves, dug our toes into the white sand, and watched the sun disappear over the horizon in a rainbow of colors.

That night, we ate at the Boathouse. It was buffet-style with all typical Creole dishes and fresh grilled fish. As we finished dessert, a storm took over and it began to pour. We quickly hurried back towards our hotel.

But in all honesty, the walk back in a tropical storm with lightning flashing in the distance was liberating. The rain washed away thoughts of the past, leaving me open to experience whatever gifts Curieuse Island would offer me over the next month.

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Mary Catherine Swanson wants every San Diego student going to college

Where busing from Southeast San Diego to University City has led
Next Article

Use San Diego crosswalks at your own peril

But new state law clearing nearby parking might backfire
Abandoned boats near Victoria on the island of Mahé.
Abandoned boats near Victoria on the island of Mahé.

I signed up for a wildlife volunteer project in the Seychelles. In order to get accustomed to the time change and to get my PADI, I went a few days early. Another volunteer for a different project, Sarah, shared a hotel room with me.

One afternoon, Sarah and I decided to go on a hike to a secluded beach. Before heading out, we got breakfast from a bakery near our hotel. It had the best bread I've ever tasted – soft and fresh out of the oven.

After a short bus ride up a two-lane street lined with thick green trees, we arrived in Victoria.

Sponsored
Sponsored

Our first stop was the market. We wandered through the square where locals were selling fruits, veggies and tourist trifles. I bought a few postcards to write while tanning on the beach. Casually making our way around the city, we wandered back to the bus stop.

After more time on a different, overcrowded bus, we were dropped off at the end of a road where a few houses and a closed restaurant dotted the landscape. A few small, colorful boats sat under some trees (above). We stopped in a hole-in-the-wall market that seemed overrun with expired and Asian snacks, bought a few that we hoped were edible and not expired, and continued.

We looked around for a trailhead marker, only to get distracted by a fruit bat in a wire cage. Its owner called us over to look at his pet, and talked to us about where we were going and where we were from. He encouraged us to pet the bat. I was dissuaded, since Contagion was still in the forefront of my mind.

The starting point was up a steep hill marked by a water tap at the top. We filled our bottles. It was cool and refreshing. We entered the path under a huge covering of trees.

on the trail

Although the beginning convinced us that the hike’s “easy” rating in the guidebook was accurate, that thought was soon shattered: not only did the trees disappear, the hill got steeper. It was hot and humid. We continued on, climbing granite rocks on a small ledge built into the side of the cliffs (left), up and down, through trees offering scant patches of shade.

When we were in the open, gazing into the clear water with the palm trees below us and the birds above, we realized the view was worth every drop of sweat.

It was supposed to be a two-hour hike, and around that time we began looking for the beach. Descending down some large boulders, we entered a thick set of trees, where we lost the trail. A few more steps down more rocks, we reached our destination – to be shared with two men in speedos.

We were disappointed when we waded into the water and discovered that under the waves, sharp rocks were lurking. Under normal conditions this would have been fine. But the waves were pounding the beach, and it was unsafe.

sunset in the Seychelles

After 20 minutes, we left and hiked back to find another beach where we drank Takamaka rum with coke. For the remaining daylight, we floated among the waves, dug our toes into the white sand, and watched the sun disappear over the horizon in a rainbow of colors.

That night, we ate at the Boathouse. It was buffet-style with all typical Creole dishes and fresh grilled fish. As we finished dessert, a storm took over and it began to pour. We quickly hurried back towards our hotel.

But in all honesty, the walk back in a tropical storm with lightning flashing in the distance was liberating. The rain washed away thoughts of the past, leaving me open to experience whatever gifts Curieuse Island would offer me over the next month.

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

3 Tips for Creating a Cozy and Inviting Living Room in San Diego

Next Article

Live Five: Rebecca Jade, Stoney B. Blues, Manzanita Blues, Blame Betty, Marujah

Holiday music, blues, rockabilly, and record releases in Carlsbad, San Carlos, Little Italy, downtown
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader