Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

La Bufadora, Baja – Escape from SoCal Sprawl

Yucca flower, overlooking La Bufadora
Yucca flower, overlooking La Bufadora

Punta Banda is a narrow, mostly barren finger of land that pokes out into the Pacific Ocean at the southern end of Bahía Todos Santos near Ensenada.

Near the very tip, busloads of bug-eyed tourists regularly stare out at the myriad of sharp, guano-covered outcroppings as they munch on crispy churros, waiting for the next influx of water to surge through the mammoth boulders at the base of the world’s second-largest blowhole, then spurt high up in the air to ultimately dissolve into a fine, cool mist that offers momentary relief under the blazing Baja sun.

Sponsored
Sponsored

Surrounded by rocky, cactus-strewn chaparral, a long row of shack-like concession stands and shops line the end of the road leading to La Bufadora. Eager vendors offer the passersby everything from the usual array of curios, plaster deities and metal sculptures to humble preparations of shellfish, candied nuts or fried seafood.

Some of the other local residents are commercial fishermen or charter skiff operators who make a good portion of their income catering to American anglers and scuba divers, who come to this special hideaway to take advantage of abundant marine life that still exists in the waters surrounding the rugged peninsula and its many hidden coves.

Standing on a hill above this modest village today, it’s apparent that the well-traveled, twisting line of somewhat-neglected asphalt that feeds La Bufadora’s tourist industry has done little to affect the stunning primitive beauty of the surrounding volcanic landscape.

Over the past few decades a surprisingly large number of ex-pats have also found a home here, many of which are fiercely independent nonconformists – refugees from the eternal battle between those who like to be told what to do, and those who don't. Nonetheless, most people who visit this region, even on a day trip, will acknowledge its special, elemental magnetism.

For those coming to Ensenada by land, La Bufadora is only about a 45-minute drive south of town on the well-marked highway. Cruise ship passengers will find a variety of transportation options to visit the blowhole as soon as they step off the gangway and onto the malecón.

It’s hard to believe that Southern California’s stressful urban overcrowding and the seemingly endless gridlock on San Diego freeways lies barely over a hundred miles north of this magical hideaway. But that is, indeed, an eternity away from here.

Up on the hill above La Bufadora, the breeze blows freely through your hair. This is a place where pelicans and seagulls dive into the ocean for their breakfast, and all the creatures of the sea and land are filled with a wild lusting for life. And while it is a life that is often stark and cruel, it is one devoid of the typical entanglements related to the societies of mankind.

It remains a more primitive but, somehow, more credible world.

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Poway’s schools, faced with money squeeze, fined for voter mailing

$105 million bond required payback of nearly 10 times that amount
Next Article

Pie pleasure at Queenstown Public House

A taste of New Zealand brings back happy memories
Yucca flower, overlooking La Bufadora
Yucca flower, overlooking La Bufadora

Punta Banda is a narrow, mostly barren finger of land that pokes out into the Pacific Ocean at the southern end of Bahía Todos Santos near Ensenada.

Near the very tip, busloads of bug-eyed tourists regularly stare out at the myriad of sharp, guano-covered outcroppings as they munch on crispy churros, waiting for the next influx of water to surge through the mammoth boulders at the base of the world’s second-largest blowhole, then spurt high up in the air to ultimately dissolve into a fine, cool mist that offers momentary relief under the blazing Baja sun.

Sponsored
Sponsored

Surrounded by rocky, cactus-strewn chaparral, a long row of shack-like concession stands and shops line the end of the road leading to La Bufadora. Eager vendors offer the passersby everything from the usual array of curios, plaster deities and metal sculptures to humble preparations of shellfish, candied nuts or fried seafood.

Some of the other local residents are commercial fishermen or charter skiff operators who make a good portion of their income catering to American anglers and scuba divers, who come to this special hideaway to take advantage of abundant marine life that still exists in the waters surrounding the rugged peninsula and its many hidden coves.

Standing on a hill above this modest village today, it’s apparent that the well-traveled, twisting line of somewhat-neglected asphalt that feeds La Bufadora’s tourist industry has done little to affect the stunning primitive beauty of the surrounding volcanic landscape.

Over the past few decades a surprisingly large number of ex-pats have also found a home here, many of which are fiercely independent nonconformists – refugees from the eternal battle between those who like to be told what to do, and those who don't. Nonetheless, most people who visit this region, even on a day trip, will acknowledge its special, elemental magnetism.

For those coming to Ensenada by land, La Bufadora is only about a 45-minute drive south of town on the well-marked highway. Cruise ship passengers will find a variety of transportation options to visit the blowhole as soon as they step off the gangway and onto the malecón.

It’s hard to believe that Southern California’s stressful urban overcrowding and the seemingly endless gridlock on San Diego freeways lies barely over a hundred miles north of this magical hideaway. But that is, indeed, an eternity away from here.

Up on the hill above La Bufadora, the breeze blows freely through your hair. This is a place where pelicans and seagulls dive into the ocean for their breakfast, and all the creatures of the sea and land are filled with a wild lusting for life. And while it is a life that is often stark and cruel, it is one devoid of the typical entanglements related to the societies of mankind.

It remains a more primitive but, somehow, more credible world.

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Woodpeckers are stocking away acorns, Amorous tarantulas

Stunning sycamores, Mars rising
Next Article

In-n-Out alters iconic symbol to reflect “modern-day California”

Keep Palm and Carry On?
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader