Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Wild Pile at Lion Coffee

“We’re not into coffeehouses like you. But you’d probably ask for a soup.”

The waffle is a sticky, crunchy, chocolaty mess.
The waffle is a sticky, crunchy, chocolaty mess.

Anastasia from Vladivostok brings my waffle.

Melissa — her family is from Guam — hands me my coffee.

The coffee’s Kona, from Hawaii.

The waffle is from…heaven.

Sigh. Love a surprise. Here I was, ambling along Market. Biggest care in the world was a slightly grumbling gut.

It’s around 2:00 in the afternoon. Looking for first food of the day. Heading east. I pass that mini-canyon, an actual earthquake fault line right where Market Street and First Avenue meet. It looks pretty wild down there. They’ve turned it into a rock-garden affair.

The first shop east of the fault gully has a banner in the window. It says, “Hawaii’s Lion Coffee.” There’s a menu up in the window, too: “Lion EATS.”

Aha. Prices are good, $5–$7. And I have this thing about Kona coffee. It tastes chocolaty, earthy, round, and smooth. Love it. ’Course, it costs more, and I see a Starbucks farther on, but what the heck?

I head in.

First thing is the big welcome from Melissa.

Sponsored
Sponsored

“Hi there!” Full of gusto, like she really means it. “Practice Aloha,” reads a sign taped to the cash register.

The small 100 percent Kona coffee costs $2.50. They have the ordinary stuff, too (small, $1; medium, $1.85; large, $2), but I figure I’ll save on the food.

“Still serving breakfast?” I ask.

“All day,” Melissa says.

“Well, it’s ten o’clock somewhere,” I say.

The choice is between breakfast burritos (bacon, ham, chicken, sausage, or veggies), with eggs, potatoes, and cheddar. Or ham or turkey breakfast sandwiches. Everything’s $4.95. For lunch, they have $5.95 sandwiches; you pick your own meat, cheese, bread, and extras.

I’m almost tempted by the lunch combo: half a sandwich and a cup of soup ($5.95).

But then I spot the waffles. Lordy. There’s a basic Belgian ($5.95), a macadamia, a chocolate-chip, a coconut, a chocolate-coconut ($6.95). You get a choice of maple, coconut, or guava syrup.

I go for the chocolate-coconut waffle. Ask for the maple syrup, then straight away wish I’d gone for the guava, but Melissa’s already on her way. So, no biggie.

I could go sit outside, except the good talkin’s happening here, in the warmth. Place looks kinda like a Starbucks, with blond wood tables. One big difference: they have a lion painted into the concrete floor, another looking down from the ceiling. The shelves are stacked with red and yellow and black bags of Hawaii’s Lion Kona coffee beans.

Anastasia makes my waffle on a waffle iron right there behind the counter.

She’s studying international business. Student exchange. “You think this is cold?” she says. “Right now, in Vladivostok, it’s 20 degrees below, Celsius.”

I ask what I’d eat if I went into a Vladivostok restaurant. “We’re not into coffeehouses like you,” she says. “But you’d probably ask for a soup. A vegetable soup or a borscht [the beet-root soup Russia is famous for]. You’d probably get a kompot, made from dried fruit, to drink. You’d pay about $5.”

So, hey, not so different.

But the coffee…IMHO, Kona coffee’s in a class all its own. For sure, my brew is velvety smooth. Also: the waffle is a sticky, crunchy, chocolaty mess.

So, guess what? Next day, I’m passing up Market again, and I can’t resist coming back in to try the lunch sandwich/soup combo. This time, Anastasia is doing the greeting.

I ask for another of those delicious coffees and the half a sandwich and soup combo. Anastasia brings over a big royal-blue bowl of steaming chicken-vegetable soup, plus a chunk or two of French bread. This is filling enough in itself — hot, briny, chunks of chicken... Then I start on the sandwich. You get your pick of turkey or ham (I chose ham) on a bread or bagel or croissant (I chose the wheat bread), cheese (I chose pepper jack), and free “extras,” like, lettuce, tomato, red-onion slices, and pesto.

She toasts it all up and brings it over. It’s a wild little pile of ham and cheese and all that fresh stuff. For $5.95, it’s a good deal. Even with the $2.50 Kona coffee, I’m out under $10.

Larry, the boss who’s just come in, says the Lion company started in Toledo, Ohio, in 1864. Which makes it the oldest major American coffee company. They became important players in the U.S. coffee-roasting scene back when Teddy Roosevelt ruled the roost. But by about 1980, when everything had fallen apart but the name, a Hawaii-based fellow named Jim Delano bought the rights to the name for his company — and took it over to Hawaii. Now Lion roasts and sells beans that grow on the Big Island’s volcanic slopes. And Larry here is trying to re-launch the Lion brand on the mainland. This Market Street location is where he’s stuck his flag in the sand, the first of what he hopes will be a, uh, Hawaiian chain in the continental U.S.

“We’re definitely number one in Hawaii,” he says. But here he’s only just begun.

I’m thinking…so this is supposed to be the first of many locations…

Anastasia comes over.

I have an idea.

“Larry, Anastasia! How’s about this: Vladivostok’s not big on coffee places, Kona, whatever — not yet. Right, Anastasia? So how’s about we launch a Siberian chain of Lions. Could break that market wide open.”

“And you’d go over and open it up for us?” Larry asks

“Oh, sure, no problem,” I say.

Anastasia says, “Even though it’s 20 degrees below, Celsius, in Vladivostok right now?”

“Oh. Right.” I think about the lovely Carla, happy in the warm San Diego sun. “Can I confirm tomorrow?” ■

The Place: Lion Coffee, 101 Market Street #100, downtown, 619-299-5466

Type of Food: light American

Prices: breakfast burritos (bacon, ham, chicken, sausage, or veggie, with eggs, potatoes, cheddar, $4.95; ham or turkey breakfast sandwiches, $4.95; lunch sandwich (turkey/ham, choice of cheese, bread, extras), $5.95; Belgian waffle, $5.95; Macadamia, chocolate-chip, coconut, or coconut-chocolate waffle, $6.95; acai bowl, $6.95

Hours: 6:00 a.m.–8:00 p.m. daily (Sundays, 6:30 a.m.–7:00 p.m.)

Buses: 3, 11, 120

Nearest Bus Stops: 4th and G ( for #3, and #120, Southbound); 5th and G (3, 120, northbound); Market and 3rd (for #11 southbound); Market and 4th (for #11 northbound)

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Five new golden locals

San Diego rocks the rockies
Next Article

Trophy truck crushes four at Baja 1000

"Two other racers on quads died too,"
The waffle is a sticky, crunchy, chocolaty mess.
The waffle is a sticky, crunchy, chocolaty mess.

Anastasia from Vladivostok brings my waffle.

Melissa — her family is from Guam — hands me my coffee.

The coffee’s Kona, from Hawaii.

The waffle is from…heaven.

Sigh. Love a surprise. Here I was, ambling along Market. Biggest care in the world was a slightly grumbling gut.

It’s around 2:00 in the afternoon. Looking for first food of the day. Heading east. I pass that mini-canyon, an actual earthquake fault line right where Market Street and First Avenue meet. It looks pretty wild down there. They’ve turned it into a rock-garden affair.

The first shop east of the fault gully has a banner in the window. It says, “Hawaii’s Lion Coffee.” There’s a menu up in the window, too: “Lion EATS.”

Aha. Prices are good, $5–$7. And I have this thing about Kona coffee. It tastes chocolaty, earthy, round, and smooth. Love it. ’Course, it costs more, and I see a Starbucks farther on, but what the heck?

I head in.

First thing is the big welcome from Melissa.

Sponsored
Sponsored

“Hi there!” Full of gusto, like she really means it. “Practice Aloha,” reads a sign taped to the cash register.

The small 100 percent Kona coffee costs $2.50. They have the ordinary stuff, too (small, $1; medium, $1.85; large, $2), but I figure I’ll save on the food.

“Still serving breakfast?” I ask.

“All day,” Melissa says.

“Well, it’s ten o’clock somewhere,” I say.

The choice is between breakfast burritos (bacon, ham, chicken, sausage, or veggies), with eggs, potatoes, and cheddar. Or ham or turkey breakfast sandwiches. Everything’s $4.95. For lunch, they have $5.95 sandwiches; you pick your own meat, cheese, bread, and extras.

I’m almost tempted by the lunch combo: half a sandwich and a cup of soup ($5.95).

But then I spot the waffles. Lordy. There’s a basic Belgian ($5.95), a macadamia, a chocolate-chip, a coconut, a chocolate-coconut ($6.95). You get a choice of maple, coconut, or guava syrup.

I go for the chocolate-coconut waffle. Ask for the maple syrup, then straight away wish I’d gone for the guava, but Melissa’s already on her way. So, no biggie.

I could go sit outside, except the good talkin’s happening here, in the warmth. Place looks kinda like a Starbucks, with blond wood tables. One big difference: they have a lion painted into the concrete floor, another looking down from the ceiling. The shelves are stacked with red and yellow and black bags of Hawaii’s Lion Kona coffee beans.

Anastasia makes my waffle on a waffle iron right there behind the counter.

She’s studying international business. Student exchange. “You think this is cold?” she says. “Right now, in Vladivostok, it’s 20 degrees below, Celsius.”

I ask what I’d eat if I went into a Vladivostok restaurant. “We’re not into coffeehouses like you,” she says. “But you’d probably ask for a soup. A vegetable soup or a borscht [the beet-root soup Russia is famous for]. You’d probably get a kompot, made from dried fruit, to drink. You’d pay about $5.”

So, hey, not so different.

But the coffee…IMHO, Kona coffee’s in a class all its own. For sure, my brew is velvety smooth. Also: the waffle is a sticky, crunchy, chocolaty mess.

So, guess what? Next day, I’m passing up Market again, and I can’t resist coming back in to try the lunch sandwich/soup combo. This time, Anastasia is doing the greeting.

I ask for another of those delicious coffees and the half a sandwich and soup combo. Anastasia brings over a big royal-blue bowl of steaming chicken-vegetable soup, plus a chunk or two of French bread. This is filling enough in itself — hot, briny, chunks of chicken... Then I start on the sandwich. You get your pick of turkey or ham (I chose ham) on a bread or bagel or croissant (I chose the wheat bread), cheese (I chose pepper jack), and free “extras,” like, lettuce, tomato, red-onion slices, and pesto.

She toasts it all up and brings it over. It’s a wild little pile of ham and cheese and all that fresh stuff. For $5.95, it’s a good deal. Even with the $2.50 Kona coffee, I’m out under $10.

Larry, the boss who’s just come in, says the Lion company started in Toledo, Ohio, in 1864. Which makes it the oldest major American coffee company. They became important players in the U.S. coffee-roasting scene back when Teddy Roosevelt ruled the roost. But by about 1980, when everything had fallen apart but the name, a Hawaii-based fellow named Jim Delano bought the rights to the name for his company — and took it over to Hawaii. Now Lion roasts and sells beans that grow on the Big Island’s volcanic slopes. And Larry here is trying to re-launch the Lion brand on the mainland. This Market Street location is where he’s stuck his flag in the sand, the first of what he hopes will be a, uh, Hawaiian chain in the continental U.S.

“We’re definitely number one in Hawaii,” he says. But here he’s only just begun.

I’m thinking…so this is supposed to be the first of many locations…

Anastasia comes over.

I have an idea.

“Larry, Anastasia! How’s about this: Vladivostok’s not big on coffee places, Kona, whatever — not yet. Right, Anastasia? So how’s about we launch a Siberian chain of Lions. Could break that market wide open.”

“And you’d go over and open it up for us?” Larry asks

“Oh, sure, no problem,” I say.

Anastasia says, “Even though it’s 20 degrees below, Celsius, in Vladivostok right now?”

“Oh. Right.” I think about the lovely Carla, happy in the warm San Diego sun. “Can I confirm tomorrow?” ■

The Place: Lion Coffee, 101 Market Street #100, downtown, 619-299-5466

Type of Food: light American

Prices: breakfast burritos (bacon, ham, chicken, sausage, or veggie, with eggs, potatoes, cheddar, $4.95; ham or turkey breakfast sandwiches, $4.95; lunch sandwich (turkey/ham, choice of cheese, bread, extras), $5.95; Belgian waffle, $5.95; Macadamia, chocolate-chip, coconut, or coconut-chocolate waffle, $6.95; acai bowl, $6.95

Hours: 6:00 a.m.–8:00 p.m. daily (Sundays, 6:30 a.m.–7:00 p.m.)

Buses: 3, 11, 120

Nearest Bus Stops: 4th and G ( for #3, and #120, Southbound); 5th and G (3, 120, northbound); Market and 3rd (for #11 southbound); Market and 4th (for #11 northbound)

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Could Supplemental Security Income house the homeless?

A board and care resident proposes a possible solution
Next Article

Last plane out of Seoul, 1950

Memories of a daring escape at the start of a war
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader