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Carnival in the Plaka, Athens

Image by Bonnie Maffei

Who knew that it snows in Athens?

On my way to the island of Paros to teach painting at an art school, I stayed in the Plaka, a historic district near the Acropolis of Athens, for a few days. Much like Mardi Gras, Carnival season began on Tsiknopempti or “Burnt Thursday,” February 19th, and ended on March 10th, “Clean Monday.” I had no idea.

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I was freezing, so I ducked into a restaurant hoping to sit by a cozy fire, but the place was filled with smoke. So I sat outdoors on the patio and, ordering veal, was surprised when a huge chunk of meat arrived floating in olive oil. I washed it down with a metaxa, a Greek brandy, serving two purposes: 1. To digest the veal 2. To keep warm.

Momentarily, I forgot the icy chill, delighting in the music and dancing in the streets. I followed a performing group to an open stage where they enacted a hilarious mock funeral.

In celebration of spring and new life, it ended with an old man, dressed as a withered hag, kissing the dead man, who leapt up and began making love to “her.” The crowd went wild with laughter.

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Image by Bonnie Maffei

Who knew that it snows in Athens?

On my way to the island of Paros to teach painting at an art school, I stayed in the Plaka, a historic district near the Acropolis of Athens, for a few days. Much like Mardi Gras, Carnival season began on Tsiknopempti or “Burnt Thursday,” February 19th, and ended on March 10th, “Clean Monday.” I had no idea.

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I was freezing, so I ducked into a restaurant hoping to sit by a cozy fire, but the place was filled with smoke. So I sat outdoors on the patio and, ordering veal, was surprised when a huge chunk of meat arrived floating in olive oil. I washed it down with a metaxa, a Greek brandy, serving two purposes: 1. To digest the veal 2. To keep warm.

Momentarily, I forgot the icy chill, delighting in the music and dancing in the streets. I followed a performing group to an open stage where they enacted a hilarious mock funeral.

In celebration of spring and new life, it ended with an old man, dressed as a withered hag, kissing the dead man, who leapt up and began making love to “her.” The crowd went wild with laughter.

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