Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Rib Tickler

The blue smoke swirls up in front of the window. Beautiful. But it's the flavor wafting into your nostrils that really makes an impression. Lo-ove the smell of ribs in the morning. Actually, it must be, like, one-ish. I only noticed this place because a bumper sticker ("4 out of 3 People have Trouble with Fractions") stopped me on the sidewalk, right where "Breakfast All Day" was written on a window. Huh. "Marie's Café."

It's a small frontage, but inside, the counter has to be 60 feet long. The first half's all kitchen. The second has about a dozen stools and another kitchen in back. Blue-and-white walls, except for some stainless steel behind the counter. Gaps in the wall lead to a plum 'n' peach eatin' area next door, filled with maroon booths and dozens of retro pics. Marilyn, of course, Liz Taylor, Bettie Page -- uh, do we know Bettie Page?

"She was quite a pin-up gal," says this older guy. "Twice as popular as Marilyn Monroe."

But now I'm noticing -- wow! An Oprah Winfrey "Up By Your Bootstraps" Award for Marie Nealson. Must be the Marie of "Marie's."

A slim gal comes up to the counter. Brown hair, pretty. You can tell she would have given Bettie Page a run for the money when she was twentysomething.

"You still serving breakfast?" I ask.

Sponsored
Sponsored

"Oh sure," she says. Turns out this is Marie herself. "But we have really great pork ribs on special today, if you want to skip to lunch."

Hmm. A thought. Still see the blue smoke. Chef's flipping the ruby-coated ribs right up there at the front window. But no. My gut would yell blue murder.

So I order a coffee ($1.35, endless refills, big generous mug), grab the menu, and check out the breakfast side. They have plenty of choices. Three eggs any style is $4.50. With ham steak, or four bacon, or two links, or corned beef hash, it's $5.75. All come with home-style spuds, or hash browns and toast or muffin. A boneless breast of chicken with three eggs is $6.85, New Yawk steak 'n' eggs is $8.50, Benedict is $6.95, and country breakfast (two eggs with biscuits and gravy, plus bacon, sausage, or ham steak) is $6.95.

They also have a rack of omelets, three-eggers, with nearly two dozen stuffin' choices, like Italian sausage, guacamole, peppers. With two items it's $5.95, three, 30 cents more at $6.25, four, $6.95. Looks like three items is the best deal.

I've just about decided on an omelet with Italian sausage, avocado, and olives when this gal Luz at the end of the counter spoils it. "Ribs," she says. "You've gotta have the ribs. They're outstanding today."

Luz is a pastry chef at Heavenly Desserts, across the road. In the trade. Must know what she's talking about. So I listen. Marie tells me they're $7.95, with fries or salad.

"What kind of salad?" I say.

"Like that." She points to a plateload that this guy on my right's eating with his hamburger. The salad teeters, a meal in itself, loaded with romaine, tomatoes, red onion slices, cheese shavings, croutons, bleu cheese dressing, and crumbled Parmesan on top.

"That size?"

"That size, and you get five ribs," says Marie.

Ow. Deal clincher. Breakfast? Objection overruled.

And yes, they are delicious. Two of the ribs are huge. Three are slightly smaller. The salad's a good, fresh contrast.

It does feel strange munching on this stuff for breakfast. But who cares? They'll be lunch too, 'cause I ain't never going to finish.

"You won't be the only one who's had to box it," says this strapping guy, Erik. He's Marie's son. Been working with her all four years since she took over the place. "Mom says, 'If you leave here with an empty stomach, it's your own fault.' She's a workaholic. Since Marie's opened we've had to close down for earthquake retrofitting, for floods from a leaky roof. She's been operated on for breast cancer, but she keeps on working." Man, that explains the Oprah Winfrey Award.

Marie -- really Maria -- used to work in solar energy sales, but when she got divorced, she needed steady money. Saw this place for sale, operating as "Johnny's," open since 1952, making it for sure one of the last true, old-time diners in town.

The guy two stools along sits back. He's been working through the " 1/2 lb. North Park Burger" with bacon, avocado, and cheese ($6.95, also with that gi-normous salad).

"You should have had this," he says to me. "I do. Every time."

"A lot of people here are retired, on fixed income," Maria says. "That's why we have a 'Senior Special' breakfast. Two eggs, bacon or sausage, potatoes and toast -- and coffee -- for $3.95."

And if a non-senior is feeling the pinch?

"Biscuits and gravy, $2.25," Erik says. "That'll fill you. Or, two eggs, for $1.55. Or the salad you had, our 'small' dinner salad, for $2.95. And you'd get garlic bread with that."

Good to know. But for now, forget those Blue Plate deals. I'm coming back for another Blue Smoke special.

Hey, if it's good enough for Oprah...

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Big kited bluefin on the Red Rooster III

Lake fishing heating up as the weather cools
Next Article

Reader writer Chris Ahrens tells the story of Windansea

The shack is a landmark declaring, “The best break in the area is out there.”

The blue smoke swirls up in front of the window. Beautiful. But it's the flavor wafting into your nostrils that really makes an impression. Lo-ove the smell of ribs in the morning. Actually, it must be, like, one-ish. I only noticed this place because a bumper sticker ("4 out of 3 People have Trouble with Fractions") stopped me on the sidewalk, right where "Breakfast All Day" was written on a window. Huh. "Marie's Café."

It's a small frontage, but inside, the counter has to be 60 feet long. The first half's all kitchen. The second has about a dozen stools and another kitchen in back. Blue-and-white walls, except for some stainless steel behind the counter. Gaps in the wall lead to a plum 'n' peach eatin' area next door, filled with maroon booths and dozens of retro pics. Marilyn, of course, Liz Taylor, Bettie Page -- uh, do we know Bettie Page?

"She was quite a pin-up gal," says this older guy. "Twice as popular as Marilyn Monroe."

But now I'm noticing -- wow! An Oprah Winfrey "Up By Your Bootstraps" Award for Marie Nealson. Must be the Marie of "Marie's."

A slim gal comes up to the counter. Brown hair, pretty. You can tell she would have given Bettie Page a run for the money when she was twentysomething.

"You still serving breakfast?" I ask.

Sponsored
Sponsored

"Oh sure," she says. Turns out this is Marie herself. "But we have really great pork ribs on special today, if you want to skip to lunch."

Hmm. A thought. Still see the blue smoke. Chef's flipping the ruby-coated ribs right up there at the front window. But no. My gut would yell blue murder.

So I order a coffee ($1.35, endless refills, big generous mug), grab the menu, and check out the breakfast side. They have plenty of choices. Three eggs any style is $4.50. With ham steak, or four bacon, or two links, or corned beef hash, it's $5.75. All come with home-style spuds, or hash browns and toast or muffin. A boneless breast of chicken with three eggs is $6.85, New Yawk steak 'n' eggs is $8.50, Benedict is $6.95, and country breakfast (two eggs with biscuits and gravy, plus bacon, sausage, or ham steak) is $6.95.

They also have a rack of omelets, three-eggers, with nearly two dozen stuffin' choices, like Italian sausage, guacamole, peppers. With two items it's $5.95, three, 30 cents more at $6.25, four, $6.95. Looks like three items is the best deal.

I've just about decided on an omelet with Italian sausage, avocado, and olives when this gal Luz at the end of the counter spoils it. "Ribs," she says. "You've gotta have the ribs. They're outstanding today."

Luz is a pastry chef at Heavenly Desserts, across the road. In the trade. Must know what she's talking about. So I listen. Marie tells me they're $7.95, with fries or salad.

"What kind of salad?" I say.

"Like that." She points to a plateload that this guy on my right's eating with his hamburger. The salad teeters, a meal in itself, loaded with romaine, tomatoes, red onion slices, cheese shavings, croutons, bleu cheese dressing, and crumbled Parmesan on top.

"That size?"

"That size, and you get five ribs," says Marie.

Ow. Deal clincher. Breakfast? Objection overruled.

And yes, they are delicious. Two of the ribs are huge. Three are slightly smaller. The salad's a good, fresh contrast.

It does feel strange munching on this stuff for breakfast. But who cares? They'll be lunch too, 'cause I ain't never going to finish.

"You won't be the only one who's had to box it," says this strapping guy, Erik. He's Marie's son. Been working with her all four years since she took over the place. "Mom says, 'If you leave here with an empty stomach, it's your own fault.' She's a workaholic. Since Marie's opened we've had to close down for earthquake retrofitting, for floods from a leaky roof. She's been operated on for breast cancer, but she keeps on working." Man, that explains the Oprah Winfrey Award.

Marie -- really Maria -- used to work in solar energy sales, but when she got divorced, she needed steady money. Saw this place for sale, operating as "Johnny's," open since 1952, making it for sure one of the last true, old-time diners in town.

The guy two stools along sits back. He's been working through the " 1/2 lb. North Park Burger" with bacon, avocado, and cheese ($6.95, also with that gi-normous salad).

"You should have had this," he says to me. "I do. Every time."

"A lot of people here are retired, on fixed income," Maria says. "That's why we have a 'Senior Special' breakfast. Two eggs, bacon or sausage, potatoes and toast -- and coffee -- for $3.95."

And if a non-senior is feeling the pinch?

"Biscuits and gravy, $2.25," Erik says. "That'll fill you. Or, two eggs, for $1.55. Or the salad you had, our 'small' dinner salad, for $2.95. And you'd get garlic bread with that."

Good to know. But for now, forget those Blue Plate deals. I'm coming back for another Blue Smoke special.

Hey, if it's good enough for Oprah...

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Aaron Stewart trades Christmas wonders for his first new music in 15 years

“Just because the job part was done, didn’t mean the passion had to die”
Next Article

Live Five: Rebecca Jade, Stoney B. Blues, Manzanita Blues, Blame Betty, Marujah

Holiday music, blues, rockabilly, and record releases in Carlsbad, San Carlos, Little Italy, downtown
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader