An oral history of a uniquely American institution as told by third- and fourth-generation counter-men and women. Delicatessens first began dotting the American landscape in the mid-1800s, the time of the great German immigration. At first a confederacy of Jews and Germans, the latter group was eventually replaced by Yiddish-speaking Russians. In their prime, approximately 2000 delis operated in New York City alone. Today, only 5 of the majors remain. The film features testimonials from authors, operators, aficionados, and many a celebrity denizen — whose signed photos ceremonially adorn the walls of many a first-class deli — including Larry King, Fyvush Finkel, and Jerry Stiller. Director Director Erik Anjou positions Ziggy Gruber, a giant, unwed Pillsbury Doughboy stuffed with kishke and gribenes, as both a deli man extraordinaire and the film’s star subject. Just prior to shooting, he met the goyishe-kop woman of his dreams, a Catholic acupuncturist named Mary, in synagogue. Anjou and his camera follow Ziggy and Mary to a synagogue in Budapest, the same one in which Grandpa Gruber became a man, to begin their own tradition of happily ever after. (Perhaps a spolier alert was in order, but how can a healthy appetite — be it for food or romance — spoil anything?) You’re bound to leave hungry. (2015) — Scott Marks
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