The Gold of the title is Jonathan Gold, Pulitzer Prize–winning populist food critic for the L.A. Times. The city is Los Angeles, a place that is, in Gold’s words, “less a melting pot than a great, glittering mosaic” whose multitudinous urban centers boast an even more multitudinous array of restaurants, many of them cooking “not for tourists or critics...but for the community.” A self-described failed cellist and onetime classical music critic who eventually fell in love with punk and hip-hop, Gold had (has) the boundless curiosity and deep devotion required to properly assess these fabulous food trucks and strip-mall feast halls, plus the intelligence and literary grace to help the reader share in the joy of his adventures. Writer-director Laura Gabbert’s documentary is a pure and pleasant celebration of the man and his work, the latter of which achieves something approaching anthropological profundity by its humble, loving attention to culinary detail. (2015) — Matthew Lickona
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