Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Don't judge a restaurant by its name

Roy Yamaguchi's Pacific Rim Cuisine surprises and delights

If there’s one thing I’ve learned about the medical industry from my sister Jane, who works for a massive pharmaceutical company, it’s that those people like to have meetings in restaurants -- particularly in major chain restaurants. I imagine this is because most of the VPs travel, and it’s nice to have some familiarity wherever they go. But we’re not talking Denny’s or Bennigan’s -- that’s not hoity enough for MDs who are learning about the latest drug developments, especially when they’re not footing the bill. These guys prefer steakhouses, where entrees are upwards of $40, and that’s not counting sides, drinks, and dessert.

Most often, Jane attends dinner meetings at Donovan’s, Ruth’s Chris, and Roy’s. The first two are old school, high-end, fancy-pants steakhouses. I’ve been to Ruth’s Chris once or twice, and Donovan’s once, both so long ago that they’re on my list to hit up some time soon because I can’t remember much past the quality beef and high prices. Jane, who is mostly vegetarian, has bemoaned the frequency of steakhouse meetings in the past. For years, I assumed Roy’s was also a steakhouse. It just has a manly, meaty sort of name, like Tom Selleck’s cowboy character in Quigley Down Under.

The other day, Jane was working at my house, as she often does, and mentioned she was excited that her dinner meeting that night was at Roy’s. “I thought you hated steakhouses,” I said.

“Oh, Roy’s isn’t a steakhouse, it’s mostly seafood,” Jane said. “And I’m so excited, because I know exactly what I’m having – the butterfish. It just melts in your mouth, and it doesn’t taste fishy at all.” Jane, along with everyone in my family, has a big issue with “fishy fish.”

A few hours later, I was driving through La Jolla while David searched for restaurant in the area so we could grab dinner before catching a movie at ArcLight Cinema. He read his finds aloud to me: “Seasons 52, that looks interesting, Blue Fin Fusion, La Jolla Strip Club, Roy’s--”

“Wait – Roy’s? That’s where Jane has her thing tonight -- how funny would it be if we showed up? We have to go there. And anyway, she’s got me all obsessed over the idea of a something called a butterfish. Is that it, right there?” The neon sign read Roy Yamaguchi’s Pacific Rim Cuisine. “Couldn’t be more convenient, it’s right across the street from the theater,” I said, as I decisively drove us into the parking lot, which the restaurant shared with other stores in the strip mall across the street from the larger Westfield UTC mall.

Our expectations were low, and I couldn’t put my finger on why. “Maybe because it doesn’t have a hip name,” David suggested. “You know, it sounds like McCormick & Schmick’s or someplace generic like that.” But the moment we walked through the front door, we realized how wrong our impression had been.

Three grinning employees greeted us, and one took our name and said it wouldn’t be a problem to seat us momentarily. I used our time waiting to locate my sister, who was already situated in a big private room for her dinner meeting. I stared into the room, not minding the quizzical looks I got from her fellow industry folk, until Jane spotted me and -- confused but obviously entertained -- came to say hello. “You can’t escape me,” I said, in a mock threatening tone. “Just kidding, we’re going to the movies across the street, and I thought it would be funny if we showed up here.”

Jane went back to her meeting and David and I were led to a tall table adjacent to the large, open kitchen. When our server arrived, she greeted us by name (clever, I thought, they get your name before they seat you, and then everyone addresses you by name, it adds a nice, fancy-but-familiar flare).

We began with a few signature cocktails, which were not terribly exciting, but not terrible either. Then again, these were island drinks, which are heavy on the pineapple, and I haven’t been into fruity since my early twenties.

http://www.sandiegoreader.com/photos/2013/apr/14/43701/

http://www.sandiegoreader.com/photos/2013/apr/14/43702/

We ordered lobster potstickers with “spicy tagarashi miso butter sauce” and vegetable spring rolls with mushrooms, sesame, bok choy, and a citrus sauce. The appetizers were enjoyable in the way that fried things often are, but they were also multi-dimensional in flavor and texture. A bit of sweet, a bit of spice, a bit of crunch, a bit of chew.

http://www.sandiegoreader.com/photos/2013/apr/14/43703/

http://www.sandiegoreader.com/photos/2013/apr/14/43704/

Of course, I ordered the Misoyaki Butterfish, with “sizzling lemon shoyu vinaigrette,” and white rice that was topped with green seasonings and seeds I did not recognize, but absolutely loved. Jane was right – the fish did melt in the mouth, though the sauce was a little on the sweet side. David’s entrée was the real winner – he got the Seared Snapper with “kaboucha squash gnocchi, chanterelle mushrooms, and opal basil.”

http://www.sandiegoreader.com/photos/2013/apr/14/43705/

http://www.sandiegoreader.com/photos/2013/apr/14/43706/

The snapper was luscious, with the clean sweet taste of the freshest kind of fish. We were impressed by the artful plating – the food was as beautiful to behold as it was to savor. When he’d finished his last bite of snapper, David sat back with a satisfied look on his face and said, “I couldn’t have wanted a better dish than that, and I wouldn’t have expected it from a 29-location chain. It looked beautiful, it was perfectly cooked, and it tasted great. Amazing presenation, and the flavors were outstanding.”

“They clearly have great management here,” I said. “I mean, from the moment we walked in, every detail has been accounted for. Service, ambiance, food. You really get that ‘aloha’ spirit. I’m not sure why I’m so surprised.”

“Well that’s easy,” David said, in his know-it-all voice. “The location and its name led us to make a false assumption.”

“You can thank Jane for the idea later,” I said. “But right now, we have a movie to catch.”

Roy Yamaguchi's Pacific Rim Cuisine

8670 Genesee Avenue, La Jolla

(858) 455-1616

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

Undocumented workers break for Trump in 2024

Illegals Vote for Felon

If there’s one thing I’ve learned about the medical industry from my sister Jane, who works for a massive pharmaceutical company, it’s that those people like to have meetings in restaurants -- particularly in major chain restaurants. I imagine this is because most of the VPs travel, and it’s nice to have some familiarity wherever they go. But we’re not talking Denny’s or Bennigan’s -- that’s not hoity enough for MDs who are learning about the latest drug developments, especially when they’re not footing the bill. These guys prefer steakhouses, where entrees are upwards of $40, and that’s not counting sides, drinks, and dessert.

Most often, Jane attends dinner meetings at Donovan’s, Ruth’s Chris, and Roy’s. The first two are old school, high-end, fancy-pants steakhouses. I’ve been to Ruth’s Chris once or twice, and Donovan’s once, both so long ago that they’re on my list to hit up some time soon because I can’t remember much past the quality beef and high prices. Jane, who is mostly vegetarian, has bemoaned the frequency of steakhouse meetings in the past. For years, I assumed Roy’s was also a steakhouse. It just has a manly, meaty sort of name, like Tom Selleck’s cowboy character in Quigley Down Under.

The other day, Jane was working at my house, as she often does, and mentioned she was excited that her dinner meeting that night was at Roy’s. “I thought you hated steakhouses,” I said.

“Oh, Roy’s isn’t a steakhouse, it’s mostly seafood,” Jane said. “And I’m so excited, because I know exactly what I’m having – the butterfish. It just melts in your mouth, and it doesn’t taste fishy at all.” Jane, along with everyone in my family, has a big issue with “fishy fish.”

A few hours later, I was driving through La Jolla while David searched for restaurant in the area so we could grab dinner before catching a movie at ArcLight Cinema. He read his finds aloud to me: “Seasons 52, that looks interesting, Blue Fin Fusion, La Jolla Strip Club, Roy’s--”

“Wait – Roy’s? That’s where Jane has her thing tonight -- how funny would it be if we showed up? We have to go there. And anyway, she’s got me all obsessed over the idea of a something called a butterfish. Is that it, right there?” The neon sign read Roy Yamaguchi’s Pacific Rim Cuisine. “Couldn’t be more convenient, it’s right across the street from the theater,” I said, as I decisively drove us into the parking lot, which the restaurant shared with other stores in the strip mall across the street from the larger Westfield UTC mall.

Our expectations were low, and I couldn’t put my finger on why. “Maybe because it doesn’t have a hip name,” David suggested. “You know, it sounds like McCormick & Schmick’s or someplace generic like that.” But the moment we walked through the front door, we realized how wrong our impression had been.

Three grinning employees greeted us, and one took our name and said it wouldn’t be a problem to seat us momentarily. I used our time waiting to locate my sister, who was already situated in a big private room for her dinner meeting. I stared into the room, not minding the quizzical looks I got from her fellow industry folk, until Jane spotted me and -- confused but obviously entertained -- came to say hello. “You can’t escape me,” I said, in a mock threatening tone. “Just kidding, we’re going to the movies across the street, and I thought it would be funny if we showed up here.”

Jane went back to her meeting and David and I were led to a tall table adjacent to the large, open kitchen. When our server arrived, she greeted us by name (clever, I thought, they get your name before they seat you, and then everyone addresses you by name, it adds a nice, fancy-but-familiar flare).

We began with a few signature cocktails, which were not terribly exciting, but not terrible either. Then again, these were island drinks, which are heavy on the pineapple, and I haven’t been into fruity since my early twenties.

http://www.sandiegoreader.com/photos/2013/apr/14/43701/

http://www.sandiegoreader.com/photos/2013/apr/14/43702/

We ordered lobster potstickers with “spicy tagarashi miso butter sauce” and vegetable spring rolls with mushrooms, sesame, bok choy, and a citrus sauce. The appetizers were enjoyable in the way that fried things often are, but they were also multi-dimensional in flavor and texture. A bit of sweet, a bit of spice, a bit of crunch, a bit of chew.

http://www.sandiegoreader.com/photos/2013/apr/14/43703/

http://www.sandiegoreader.com/photos/2013/apr/14/43704/

Of course, I ordered the Misoyaki Butterfish, with “sizzling lemon shoyu vinaigrette,” and white rice that was topped with green seasonings and seeds I did not recognize, but absolutely loved. Jane was right – the fish did melt in the mouth, though the sauce was a little on the sweet side. David’s entrée was the real winner – he got the Seared Snapper with “kaboucha squash gnocchi, chanterelle mushrooms, and opal basil.”

http://www.sandiegoreader.com/photos/2013/apr/14/43705/

http://www.sandiegoreader.com/photos/2013/apr/14/43706/

The snapper was luscious, with the clean sweet taste of the freshest kind of fish. We were impressed by the artful plating – the food was as beautiful to behold as it was to savor. When he’d finished his last bite of snapper, David sat back with a satisfied look on his face and said, “I couldn’t have wanted a better dish than that, and I wouldn’t have expected it from a 29-location chain. It looked beautiful, it was perfectly cooked, and it tasted great. Amazing presenation, and the flavors were outstanding.”

“They clearly have great management here,” I said. “I mean, from the moment we walked in, every detail has been accounted for. Service, ambiance, food. You really get that ‘aloha’ spirit. I’m not sure why I’m so surprised.”

“Well that’s easy,” David said, in his know-it-all voice. “The location and its name led us to make a false assumption.”

“You can thank Jane for the idea later,” I said. “But right now, we have a movie to catch.”

Roy Yamaguchi's Pacific Rim Cuisine

8670 Genesee Avenue, La Jolla

(858) 455-1616

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

See Jane Run

Next Article

The long, long titles: Part 1

Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.