Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Tour de cheesesteaks

Stage one: sampling the fare at San Diego's most established cheesesteak operation

Back in June, I ate at the Philly Grill in North Park and it didn’t blow my mind or anything. The steak was delicious, but there was too little of it and it had been assembled without much care. The extreme convenience of location softened my sentiments somewhat, though not to the point of a rave review. Since then, doing a rundown of cheesesteak shops has been in the back of my mind.

Yeah, I’m slow sometimes but it’s finally underway after much deliberation and list-making. I want to limit myself (more or less) to cheesesteak-specific places. I decided to start with the local reference point, the standard by which other cheesesteaks will be judged, Gaglione Brothers (“the best cheesesteaks in San Diego!” or so they say). I went to the Mission Gorge location since I’m exploring Grantville and Allied Gardens lately, but they also have one down by the sports arena. I should hope they’d be identical.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/nov/27/36028/

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/nov/27/36029/

Gaglione’s is nicer, more polished inside than I expect from a sub shop. It seems more like they took design cues from Quizno’s than from any mom and pop cheesesteak shop I’ve been to. I prefer the slick look to a faux-authentic one. I’m glad the interior hadn’t been made to look like a provincial hole-in-the-wall from some imagined Pennsylvania neighborhood.

On first entering, the display of peppers and relishes delighted with promises of limitless giardiniera, cherry peppers, jalapenos, pepperoncini, and other spicy bits.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/nov/27/36030/

The simply menu advertised cheesesteaks, non-cheesesteaks, and a few sides. That’s it.

Cool, let’s do this.

Small steak sub with the works ($7.79) and an order of garlic fries ($2.69). Turned out I can get a drink for just $0.30 more. Done.

It took a minute for the food to cook, not a foolishly long time, but longer than I would expect. What were they doing to my steak? Shaving it to order? Hunting the beef? Somehow, I expected instant gratification. Probably because I worked in a lot of sub shops as a kid and I could prepare cheesesteaks in about 97 seconds.

Then I realized I was probably waiting for the fries. Silly me.

Tasty garlic fries, too. Insufficiently crispy, but covered in a thick slurry of oily chopped garlic and herbs. I might like to try an order with garlic and Cheez Whiz ($3.49) sometime.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/nov/27/36031/

When I got the steak, It didn’t have quite the heft that I was looking for. I wouldn’t call it “petite,” it’s not like I was looking at a garden party cucumber sandwich or anything, but it wasn’t the monstrous sandwich I was expecting for almost $1/inch. Still, the steak was delightful. Savory, a little chewy, laced with onions, hot cherry peppers, and mushrooms. Molten American cheese (no Whiz for me that day) ran through the sub, soaking into the bread. The sandwich quelled my appetite more than its diminutive stature implied. Perhaps the steak was leaner and more substantial than the average cheesesteak? It’s not as though such subs are known for being made from the primest cuts of beef. I’d call Gaglione Brother’s cheesesteak...”solid.” It had everything I was looking for and the attention to detail (and generosity) that was missing at the Philly Grill.

10450 Friars Road #B
619-955-8600


3944 West Point Loma Boulevard
619-758-0646

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

Drinking Sudden Death on All Saint’s Day in Quixote’s church-themed interior

Seeking solace, spiritual and otherwise
Next Article

Tigers In Cairo owes its existence to Craigslist

But it owes its name to a Cure tune and a tattoo

Back in June, I ate at the Philly Grill in North Park and it didn’t blow my mind or anything. The steak was delicious, but there was too little of it and it had been assembled without much care. The extreme convenience of location softened my sentiments somewhat, though not to the point of a rave review. Since then, doing a rundown of cheesesteak shops has been in the back of my mind.

Yeah, I’m slow sometimes but it’s finally underway after much deliberation and list-making. I want to limit myself (more or less) to cheesesteak-specific places. I decided to start with the local reference point, the standard by which other cheesesteaks will be judged, Gaglione Brothers (“the best cheesesteaks in San Diego!” or so they say). I went to the Mission Gorge location since I’m exploring Grantville and Allied Gardens lately, but they also have one down by the sports arena. I should hope they’d be identical.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/nov/27/36028/

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/nov/27/36029/

Gaglione’s is nicer, more polished inside than I expect from a sub shop. It seems more like they took design cues from Quizno’s than from any mom and pop cheesesteak shop I’ve been to. I prefer the slick look to a faux-authentic one. I’m glad the interior hadn’t been made to look like a provincial hole-in-the-wall from some imagined Pennsylvania neighborhood.

On first entering, the display of peppers and relishes delighted with promises of limitless giardiniera, cherry peppers, jalapenos, pepperoncini, and other spicy bits.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/nov/27/36030/

The simply menu advertised cheesesteaks, non-cheesesteaks, and a few sides. That’s it.

Cool, let’s do this.

Small steak sub with the works ($7.79) and an order of garlic fries ($2.69). Turned out I can get a drink for just $0.30 more. Done.

It took a minute for the food to cook, not a foolishly long time, but longer than I would expect. What were they doing to my steak? Shaving it to order? Hunting the beef? Somehow, I expected instant gratification. Probably because I worked in a lot of sub shops as a kid and I could prepare cheesesteaks in about 97 seconds.

Then I realized I was probably waiting for the fries. Silly me.

Tasty garlic fries, too. Insufficiently crispy, but covered in a thick slurry of oily chopped garlic and herbs. I might like to try an order with garlic and Cheez Whiz ($3.49) sometime.

http://sandiegoreader.com/users/photos/2012/nov/27/36031/

When I got the steak, It didn’t have quite the heft that I was looking for. I wouldn’t call it “petite,” it’s not like I was looking at a garden party cucumber sandwich or anything, but it wasn’t the monstrous sandwich I was expecting for almost $1/inch. Still, the steak was delightful. Savory, a little chewy, laced with onions, hot cherry peppers, and mushrooms. Molten American cheese (no Whiz for me that day) ran through the sub, soaking into the bread. The sandwich quelled my appetite more than its diminutive stature implied. Perhaps the steak was leaner and more substantial than the average cheesesteak? It’s not as though such subs are known for being made from the primest cuts of beef. I’d call Gaglione Brother’s cheesesteak...”solid.” It had everything I was looking for and the attention to detail (and generosity) that was missing at the Philly Grill.

10450 Friars Road #B
619-955-8600


3944 West Point Loma Boulevard
619-758-0646

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Cheesesteaks are still better than the Eagles

And there are no good taco shops in Philly
Next Article

The CheeseSteak Grill does Philly proud

Oceanside’s take on a nationally revered sandwich
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader