Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Yucca flour and spice rule in Point Loma

Brazil by the Sports Arena

A Prato Feito calabrasa acebolado —aka the combo plate —  with beans, rice, yucca flour, sliced sausage, and onions.
A Prato Feito calabrasa acebolado —aka the combo plate — with beans, rice, yucca flour, sliced sausage, and onions.

If you've ever driven up Hancock Street where the 8 meets the 5 in the northeast corner of Point Loma, you know that the one-way stretch slowly loops through an old industrial area that wouldn't be of much use to anyone who hasn't had their car towed, except that there are a growing number of beer and coffee businesses back there. Also back there is one of the city's least likely restaurant locations.

Place

Brazil by the Bay Restaurant and Sports Bar

2676 Kurtz Street, San Diego

This Brazilian restaurant and market are hidden behind the sports arena.

Brazil by the Bay is technically by Mission Bay as the crow flies, but all I could see through the casual eatery's windows was the backside of the Sports Arena. A banner strung across the old venue informed me that San Diego has a hockey team. Go Gulls, I guess. Just don't ask for a new stadium.

I've eaten enough Brazilian food to know that I enjoy it, but not enough to learn the lingo. "What's farofa?" I had to ask my waitress. Turns out it's the accurate term for toasted yucca flour, which is actually one of the unlikely reasons I'm fond of Brazilian cuisine.

Sponsored
Sponsored

There's barely anything to farofa — it doesn't really even rate as a side dish. It's essentially a dry condiment, resembling a pile of bread crumbs, and often similarly seasoned. But when you mix it with your side of rice and beans, it gives them a pleasing, gritty, crunchy texture. Same with meats.

Yes, churrasco grilled meats top the list of reasons to dine Brazilian, so as I perused the menu's Prato Feito options (that loosely translates to combo plate), I found myself choosing between beef, chicken, fish, and calabresa — the Brazilian take on Portuguese linguiça sausage (each ranged between 12 and 14 bucks).

I chose the latter, served acebolado (with onions). I'd barely been there five minutes and already this place was improving my understanding of Portuguese. All of the other patrons spoke it to the restaurant staff, with some familiarity. I take that as a good sign — if the place has Brazilian regulars, it must be doing something right.

The finely minced sausage was served sliced, with caramelized onions, so as I started mixing up my plate's red beans, rice, and farofa, it seemed easier to mix the sausage and onions together as well. That yucca flour crunch, it works just as well to dress meat.

The waitress brought one last element to tie the dish together: malagueta chile sauce. That's another Brazilian mainstay, made with the high scoville malagueta pepper. Its bright, fruity spice has some real kick, and even with the lightest splash I could feel some burn.

My prato tasted just fine without it (nothing earth-shaking) but adding the spice gave my dish that touch of exotic flavor that makes eating another culture's food so worthwhile. Brazil by the Bay also features a small Brazilian market where you may buy farofa, calabresa, malagueta, and other South American specialties.

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Pie pleasure at Queenstown Public House

A taste of New Zealand brings back happy memories
A Prato Feito calabrasa acebolado —aka the combo plate —  with beans, rice, yucca flour, sliced sausage, and onions.
A Prato Feito calabrasa acebolado —aka the combo plate — with beans, rice, yucca flour, sliced sausage, and onions.

If you've ever driven up Hancock Street where the 8 meets the 5 in the northeast corner of Point Loma, you know that the one-way stretch slowly loops through an old industrial area that wouldn't be of much use to anyone who hasn't had their car towed, except that there are a growing number of beer and coffee businesses back there. Also back there is one of the city's least likely restaurant locations.

Place

Brazil by the Bay Restaurant and Sports Bar

2676 Kurtz Street, San Diego

This Brazilian restaurant and market are hidden behind the sports arena.

Brazil by the Bay is technically by Mission Bay as the crow flies, but all I could see through the casual eatery's windows was the backside of the Sports Arena. A banner strung across the old venue informed me that San Diego has a hockey team. Go Gulls, I guess. Just don't ask for a new stadium.

I've eaten enough Brazilian food to know that I enjoy it, but not enough to learn the lingo. "What's farofa?" I had to ask my waitress. Turns out it's the accurate term for toasted yucca flour, which is actually one of the unlikely reasons I'm fond of Brazilian cuisine.

Sponsored
Sponsored

There's barely anything to farofa — it doesn't really even rate as a side dish. It's essentially a dry condiment, resembling a pile of bread crumbs, and often similarly seasoned. But when you mix it with your side of rice and beans, it gives them a pleasing, gritty, crunchy texture. Same with meats.

Yes, churrasco grilled meats top the list of reasons to dine Brazilian, so as I perused the menu's Prato Feito options (that loosely translates to combo plate), I found myself choosing between beef, chicken, fish, and calabresa — the Brazilian take on Portuguese linguiça sausage (each ranged between 12 and 14 bucks).

I chose the latter, served acebolado (with onions). I'd barely been there five minutes and already this place was improving my understanding of Portuguese. All of the other patrons spoke it to the restaurant staff, with some familiarity. I take that as a good sign — if the place has Brazilian regulars, it must be doing something right.

The finely minced sausage was served sliced, with caramelized onions, so as I started mixing up my plate's red beans, rice, and farofa, it seemed easier to mix the sausage and onions together as well. That yucca flour crunch, it works just as well to dress meat.

The waitress brought one last element to tie the dish together: malagueta chile sauce. That's another Brazilian mainstay, made with the high scoville malagueta pepper. Its bright, fruity spice has some real kick, and even with the lightest splash I could feel some burn.

My prato tasted just fine without it (nothing earth-shaking) but adding the spice gave my dish that touch of exotic flavor that makes eating another culture's food so worthwhile. Brazil by the Bay also features a small Brazilian market where you may buy farofa, calabresa, malagueta, and other South American specialties.

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Gonzo Report: Eating dinner while little kids mock-mosh at Golden Island

“The tot absorbs the punk rock shot with the skill of experience”
Next Article

Poway’s schools, faced with money squeeze, fined for voter mailing

$105 million bond required payback of nearly 10 times that amount
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader