Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Tiny dogs and good sushi

A day on the patio at Shimbashi Izakaya

Mentai udon is a “must”
Mentai udon is a “must”
Place

Shimbashi Izakaya

Del Mar Plaza, 1555 Camino del Mar, Del Mar

If you’re dining on a patio somewhere, one good way to tell you’re in Del Mar is when multiple impeccably groomed, toy-sized dogs discretely nibble bits of sushi from the manicured fingers of their doting owners.

There are other clues, of course, like taking the coast highway north from Torrey Pines State Beach (alternatively south from the dog beach), or the impossibility of navigating the Plaza without making at least one wrong turn, but the “preponderance of tiny dogs” test seldom fails.

Sponsored
Sponsored
Shimbashi by night

This is the way it goes on the patio at Shimbashi Izakaya, where a weird mish-mash of families, nervous young professionals out on a date, in-the-know Japanese patrons, and ubiquitous little dogs somehow creates a compelling ambiance. Of all the places you could go for distinctly above-average sushi (where “shiny” fish such as mackerel, shad, and sardines receive treatment equal to the more expensive toro), this is one of the more pleasant and less formal.

Mackerel with cured seaweed and halibut fluke with yuzukoshō and grated salt

Shimbashi could be a spot for sushi snobs, but it isn’t. “I like goat cheese, yeah, but not the smelly sock kind,” explains one patron to the others in his party, while another lavishes praise on a bar in Oceanside that “has kombucha on tap.” The occasional scared patio dog yips or barks, and little towheaded grommets in flat-brimmed caps eat their fill of California rolls. Young men impress their dates by ordering lavishly from the sake menu, which does contain some impressively expensive libations.

Many of Naomi Wise’s observations from 2010 hold true about Shimbashi’s tapas menu. Mentai udon ($8.50) may be the only “must” dish on the menu: a tiny bit spicy and a whole lot creamy, it’s like a gentler bottarga. Deep fried garlic ($4.50), served with plenty of toasted sesame oil, also works well. But without rhyme or reason behind what’s good and what’s not, it’s safer to stick to the sushi menu.

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Birdwatching bonanza, earliest sunset of the year, bulb planting time

Venus shines its brightest
Mentai udon is a “must”
Mentai udon is a “must”
Place

Shimbashi Izakaya

Del Mar Plaza, 1555 Camino del Mar, Del Mar

If you’re dining on a patio somewhere, one good way to tell you’re in Del Mar is when multiple impeccably groomed, toy-sized dogs discretely nibble bits of sushi from the manicured fingers of their doting owners.

There are other clues, of course, like taking the coast highway north from Torrey Pines State Beach (alternatively south from the dog beach), or the impossibility of navigating the Plaza without making at least one wrong turn, but the “preponderance of tiny dogs” test seldom fails.

Sponsored
Sponsored
Shimbashi by night

This is the way it goes on the patio at Shimbashi Izakaya, where a weird mish-mash of families, nervous young professionals out on a date, in-the-know Japanese patrons, and ubiquitous little dogs somehow creates a compelling ambiance. Of all the places you could go for distinctly above-average sushi (where “shiny” fish such as mackerel, shad, and sardines receive treatment equal to the more expensive toro), this is one of the more pleasant and less formal.

Mackerel with cured seaweed and halibut fluke with yuzukoshō and grated salt

Shimbashi could be a spot for sushi snobs, but it isn’t. “I like goat cheese, yeah, but not the smelly sock kind,” explains one patron to the others in his party, while another lavishes praise on a bar in Oceanside that “has kombucha on tap.” The occasional scared patio dog yips or barks, and little towheaded grommets in flat-brimmed caps eat their fill of California rolls. Young men impress their dates by ordering lavishly from the sake menu, which does contain some impressively expensive libations.

Many of Naomi Wise’s observations from 2010 hold true about Shimbashi’s tapas menu. Mentai udon ($8.50) may be the only “must” dish on the menu: a tiny bit spicy and a whole lot creamy, it’s like a gentler bottarga. Deep fried garlic ($4.50), served with plenty of toasted sesame oil, also works well. But without rhyme or reason behind what’s good and what’s not, it’s safer to stick to the sushi menu.

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Pedicab drivers in downtown San Diego miss the music

New rules have led to 50% drop in business
Next Article

Remote work = cleaner air for San Diego

Locals working from home went from 8.1 percent to 17.8 percent
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader